Martin M. Miles' photos

Crete, the largest and most populous of the Greek islands, is located about 100 km south of the Peloponnese. Crete was the center of Europe's first advanced civilization, the Minoans, from 3000 to 1400 BC. The Minoan civilization was overrun by the Mycenaean civilization from mainland Greece. Crete was later ruled by Rome, then successively by the Byzantine Empire, the Byzantine Empire again, the Venetian Republic, and the Ottoman Empire. In 1898 Crete, whose people had for some time wanted to join the Greek state, achieved independence from the Ottomans, formally becoming the Cretan State. Crete became part of Greece in December 1913. In Hellenistic times, ancient Rhithymna was a small town. The name Rhithymna can be found in inscriptions and finds of coins minted in the town from the 4th and 3rd centuries BC. It continued to exist as a small town during the Roman period and the first Byzantine era, but was destroyed during the Arab conquest. Attempts to reconquer the island by the weakened Byzantine Empire were unsuccessful. The later Emperor Nicephorus II succeeded in reintegrating the island into the Byzantine Empire in 960/961. The second Byzantine era ended after the capture of Constantinople in 1204 by the crusaders of the Fourth Crusade. To finance the war, Crete was sold to the Venetians for 10,000 silver marks. By 1218, the Venetians had conquered the entire island against the resistance of the locals. Rethymno began a period of growth when the Venetians decided to establish an intermediate commercial station between Heraklion and Chania. Today's old town was almost entirely built by the Republic of Venice. The town was captured by the Ottoman Empire in and they ruled it for almost three centuries. The town gradually took on a Muslim character. In 1647, the main Catholic church of San Nicolo was rededicated as the Sultan Ibrahim Mosque. Other churches were converted into mosques or demolished. Many of the former cultural elite left the city, mostly in the direction of Venice. During the Battle of Crete (May 1941), the Battle of Rethymno was fought between German paratroopers and combined forces of the Second Australian Imperial Force and the Hellenic Army. The Germans won the battle after creating huge damage.

Crete, the largest and most populous of the Greek islands, is located about 100 km south of the Peloponnese. Crete was the center of Europe's first advanced civilization, the Minoans, from 3000 to 1400 BC. The Minoan civilization was overrun by the Mycenaean civilization from mainland Greece. Crete was later ruled by Rome, then successively by the Byzantine Empire, the Byzantine Empire again, the Venetian Republic, and the Ottoman Empire. In 1898 Crete, whose people had for some time wanted to join the Greek state, achieved independence from the Ottomans, formally becoming the Cretan State. Crete became part of Greece in December 1913. In Hellenistic times, ancient Rhithymna was a small town. The name Rhithymna can be found in inscriptions and finds of coins minted in the town from the 4th and 3rd centuries BC. It continued to exist as a small town during the Roman period and the first Byzantine era, but was destroyed during the Arab conquest. Attempts to reconquer the island by the weakened Byzantine Empire were unsuccessful. The later Emperor Nicephorus II succeeded in reintegrating the island into the Byzantine Empire in 960/961. The second Byzantine era ended after the capture of Constantinople in 1204 by the crusaders of the Fourth Crusade. To finance the war, Crete was sold to the Venetians for 10,000 silver marks. By 1218, the Venetians had conquered the entire island against the resistance of the locals. Rethymno began a period of growth when the Venetians decided to establish an intermediate commercial station between Heraklion and Chania. Today's old town was almost entirely built by the Republic of Venice. The town was captured by the Ottoman Empire in and they ruled it for almost three centuries. The town gradually took on a Muslim character. In 1647, the main Catholic church of San Nicolo was rededicated as the Sultan Ibrahim Mosque. Other churches were converted into mosques or demolished. Many of the former cultural elite left the city, mostly in the direction of Venice. During the Battle of Crete (May 1941), the Battle of Rethymno was fought between German paratroopers and combined forces of the Second Australian Imperial Force and the Hellenic Army. The Germans won the battle after creating huge damage. Guora Gate (aka Megali Porta) is the only remaining ancient gate from the 16th-century city walls. During the Venetian period, this was the main entrance from the south side.

Crete, the largest and most populous of the Greek islands, is located about 100 km south of the Peloponnese. Crete was the center of Europe's first advanced civilization, the Minoans, from 3000 to 1400 BC. The Minoan civilization was overrun by the Mycenaean civilization from mainland Greece. Crete was later ruled by Rome, then successively by the Byzantine Empire, the Byzantine Empire again, the Venetian Republic, and the Ottoman Empire. In 1898 Crete, whose people had for some time wanted to join the Greek state, achieved independence from the Ottomans, formally becoming the Cretan State. Crete became part of Greece in December 1913. In Hellenistic times, ancient Rhithymna was a small town. The name Rhithymna can be found in inscriptions and finds of coins minted in the town from the 4th and 3rd centuries BC. It continued to exist as a small town during the Roman period and the first Byzantine era, but was destroyed during the Arab conquest. Attempts to reconquer the island by the weakened Byzantine Empire were unsuccessful. The later Emperor Nicephorus II succeeded in reintegrating the island into the Byzantine Empire in 960/961. The second Byzantine era ended after the capture of Constantinople in 1204 by the crusaders of the Fourth Crusade. To finance the war, Crete was sold to the Venetians for 10,000 silver marks. By 1218, the Venetians had conquered the entire island against the resistance of the locals. Rethymno began a period of growth when the Venetians decided to establish an intermediate commercial station between Heraklion and Chania. Today's old town was almost entirely built by the Republic of Venice. The town was captured by the Ottoman Empire in and they ruled it for almost three centuries. The town gradually took on a Muslim character. In 1647, the main Catholic church of San Nicolo was rededicated as the Sultan Ibrahim Mosque. Other churches were converted into mosques or demolished. Many of the former cultural elite left the city, mostly in the direction of Venice. During the Battle of Crete (May 1941), the Battle of Rethymno was fought between German paratroopers and combined forces of the Second Australian Imperial Force and the Hellenic Army. The Germans won the battle after creating huge damage.

Crete, the largest and most populous of the Greek islands, is located about 100 km south of the Peloponnese. Crete was the center of Europe's first advanced civilization, the Minoans, from 3000 to 1400 BC. The Minoan civilization was overrun by the Mycenaean civilization from mainland Greece. Crete was later ruled by Rome, then successively by the Byzantine Empire, the Byzantine Empire again, the Venetian Republic, and the Ottoman Empire. In 1898 Crete, whose people had for some time wanted to join the Greek state, achieved independence from the Ottomans, formally becoming the Cretan State. Crete became part of Greece in December 1913. In Hellenistic times, ancient Rhithymna was a small town. The name Rhithymna can be found in inscriptions and finds of coins minted in the town from the 4th and 3rd centuries BC. It continued to exist as a small town during the Roman period and the first Byzantine era, but was destroyed during the Arab conquest. Attempts to reconquer the island by the weakened Byzantine Empire were unsuccessful. The later Emperor Nicephorus II succeeded in reintegrating the island into the Byzantine Empire in 960/961. The second Byzantine era ended after the capture of Constantinople in 1204 by the crusaders of the Fourth Crusade. To finance the war, Crete was sold to the Venetians for 10,000 silver marks. By 1218, the Venetians had conquered the entire island against the resistance of the locals. Rethymno began a period of growth when the Venetians decided to establish an intermediate commercial station between Heraklion and Chania. Today's old town was almost entirely built by the Republic of Venice. The town was captured by the Ottoman Empire in and they ruled it for almost three centuries. The town gradually took on a Muslim character. In 1647, the main Catholic church of San Nicolo was rededicated as the Sultan Ibrahim Mosque. Other churches were converted into mosques or demolished. Many of the former cultural elite left the city, mostly in the direction of Venice. During the Battle of Crete (May 1941), the Battle of Rethymno was fought between German paratroopers and combined forces of the Second Australian Imperial Force and the Hellenic Army. The Germans won the battle after creating huge damage. The Loggia is a Venetian building constructed between 1538 and 1540, modelled on the loggias of Venice and Heraklion – albeit with less ornate decoration than those. It is the work of the Veronese architect M. Sanmicheli, who was responsible for designing the fortifications of the island cities. It was here that the city’s princes and nobles discussed the various political, economic and trade-related issues of the time. During the Turkish occupation, the loggia was converted into a mosque – in honour of Hajji Hussein, the conqueror of Rethymnon. On the west side of the building stood a minaret, which was demolished in 1930.

Crete, the largest and most populous of the Greek islands, is located about 100 km south of the Peloponnese. Crete was the center of Europe's first advanced civilization, the Minoans, from 3000 to 1400 BC. The Minoan civilization was overrun by the Mycenaean civilization from mainland Greece. Crete was later ruled by Rome, then successively by the Byzantine Empire, the Byzantine Empire again, the Venetian Republic, and the Ottoman Empire. In 1898 Crete, whose people had for some time wanted to join the Greek state, achieved independence from the Ottomans, formally becoming the Cretan State. Crete became part of Greece in December 1913. In Hellenistic times, ancient Rhithymna was a small town. The name Rhithymna can be found in inscriptions and finds of coins minted in the town from the 4th and 3rd centuries BC. It continued to exist as a small town during the Roman period and the first Byzantine era, but was destroyed during the Arab conquest. Attempts to reconquer the island by the weakened Byzantine Empire were unsuccessful. The later Emperor Nicephorus II succeeded in reintegrating the island into the Byzantine Empire in 960/961. The second Byzantine era ended after the capture of Constantinople in 1204 by the crusaders of the Fourth Crusade. To finance the war, Crete was sold to the Venetians for 10,000 silver marks. By 1218, the Venetians had conquered the entire island against the resistance of the locals. Rethymno began a period of growth when the Venetians decided to establish an intermediate commercial station between Heraklion and Chania. Today's old town was almost entirely built by the Republic of Venice. The town was captured by the Ottoman Empire in and they ruled it for almost three centuries. The town gradually took on a Muslim character. In 1647, the main Catholic church of San Nicolo was rededicated as the Sultan Ibrahim Mosque. Other churches were converted into mosques or demolished. Many of the former cultural elite left the city, mostly in the direction of Venice. During the Battle of Crete (May 1941), the Battle of Rethymno was fought between German paratroopers and combined forces of the Second Australian Imperial Force and the Hellenic Army. The Germans won the battle after creating huge damage. The lighthouse at the entrance to the harbor

Crete, the largest and most populous of the Greek islands, is located about 100 km south of the Peloponnese. Crete was the center of Europe's first advanced civilization, the Minoans, from 3000 to 1400 BC. The Minoan civilization was overrun by the Mycenaean civilization from mainland Greece. Crete was later ruled by Rome, then successively by the Byzantine Empire, the Byzantine Empire again, the Venetian Republic, and the Ottoman Empire. In 1898 Crete, whose people had for some time wanted to join the Greek state, achieved independence from the Ottomans, formally becoming the Cretan State. Crete became part of Greece in December 1913. In Hellenistic times, ancient Rhithymna was a small town. The name Rhithymna can be found in inscriptions and finds of coins minted in the town from the 4th and 3rd centuries BC. It continued to exist as a small town during the Roman period and the first Byzantine era, but was destroyed during the Arab conquest. Attempts to reconquer the island by the weakened Byzantine Empire were unsuccessful. The later Emperor Nicephorus II succeeded in reintegrating the island into the Byzantine Empire in 960/961. The second Byzantine era ended after the capture of Constantinople in 1204 by the crusaders of the Fourth Crusade. To finance the war, Crete was sold to the Venetians for 10,000 silver marks. By 1218, the Venetians had conquered the entire island against the resistance of the locals. Rethymno began a period of growth when the Venetians decided to establish an intermediate commercial station between Heraklion and Chania. Today's old town was almost entirely built by the Republic of Venice. The town was captured by the Ottoman Empire in and they ruled it for almost three centuries. The town gradually took on a Muslim character. In 1647, the main Catholic church of San Nicolo was rededicated as the Sultan Ibrahim Mosque. Other churches were converted into mosques or demolished. Many of the former cultural elite left the city, mostly in the direction of Venice. During the Battle of Crete (May 1941), the Battle of Rethymno was fought between German paratroopers and combined forces of the Second Australian Imperial Force and the Hellenic Army. The Germans won the battle after creating huge damage.

Crete, the largest and most populous of the Greek islands, is located about 100 km south of the Peloponnese. Crete was the center of Europe's first advanced civilization, the Minoans, from 3000 to 1400 BC. The Minoan civilization was overrun by the Mycenaean civilization from mainland Greece. Crete was later ruled by Rome, then successively by the Byzantine Empire, the Byzantine Empire again, the Venetian Republic, and the Ottoman Empire. In 1898 Crete, whose people had for some time wanted to join the Greek state, achieved independence from the Ottomans, formally becoming the Cretan State. Crete became part of Greece in December 1913. In Hellenistic times, ancient Rhithymna was a small town. The name Rhithymna can be found in inscriptions and finds of coins minted in the town from the 4th and 3rd centuries BC. It continued to exist as a small town during the Roman period and the first Byzantine era, but was destroyed during the Arab conquest. Attempts to reconquer the island by the weakened Byzantine Empire were unsuccessful. The later Emperor Nicephorus II succeeded in reintegrating the island into the Byzantine Empire in 960/961. The second Byzantine era ended after the capture of Constantinople in 1204 by the crusaders of the Fourth Crusade. To finance the war, Crete was sold to the Venetians for 10,000 silver marks. By 1218, the Venetians had conquered the entire island against the resistance of the locals. Rethymno began a period of growth when the Venetians decided to establish an intermediate commercial station between Heraklion and Chania. Today's old town was almost entirely built by the Republic of Venice. The town was captured by the Ottoman Empire in and they ruled it for almost three centuries. The town gradually took on a Muslim character. In 1647, the main Catholic church of San Nicolo was rededicated as the Sultan Ibrahim Mosque. Other churches were converted into mosques or demolished. Many of the former cultural elite left the city, mostly in the direction of Venice. During the Battle of Crete (May 1941), the Battle of Rethymno was fought between German paratroopers and combined forces of the Second Australian Imperial Force and the Hellenic Army. The Germans won the battle after creating huge damage. Veli Pasha Mosque (aka Mastaba Mosque) was built outside the walls on the site of an older Christian church dedicated to Saint Onuphrius. It is associated with the conquest of Rethymno by the Ottomans in 1646. The oldest attestation of the mosque dates from 1657. The mosque was abandoned in the 1910s and was heavily damaged by bombing in World War II. The monument was later restored in the early 2010s and houses the Paleontological Museum of Rethymno.

Crete, the largest and most populous of the Greek islands, is located about 100 km south of the Peloponnese. Crete was the center of Europe's first advanced civilization, the Minoans, from 3000 to 1400 BC. The Minoan civilization was overrun by the Mycenaean civilization from mainland Greece. Crete was later ruled by Rome, then successively by the Byzantine Empire, the Byzantine Empire again, the Venetian Republic, and the Ottoman Empire. In 1898 Crete, whose people had for some time wanted to join the Greek state, achieved independence from the Ottomans, formally becoming the Cretan State. Crete became part of Greece in December 1913. In Hellenistic times, ancient Rhithymna was a small town. The name Rhithymna can be found in inscriptions and finds of coins minted in the town from the 4th and 3rd centuries BC. It continued to exist as a small town during the Roman period and the first Byzantine era, but was destroyed during the Arab conquest. Attempts to reconquer the island by the weakened Byzantine Empire were unsuccessful. The later Emperor Nicephorus II succeeded in reintegrating the island into the Byzantine Empire in 960/961. The second Byzantine era ended after the capture of Constantinople in 1204 by the crusaders of the Fourth Crusade. To finance the war, Crete was sold to the Venetians for 10,000 silver marks. By 1218, the Venetians had conquered the entire island against the resistance of the locals. Rethymno began a period of growth when the Venetians decided to establish an intermediate commercial station between Heraklion and Chania. Today's old town was almost entirely built by the Republic of Venice. The town was captured by the Ottoman Empire in and they ruled it for almost three centuries. The town gradually took on a Muslim character. In 1647, the main Catholic church of San Nicolo was rededicated as the Sultan Ibrahim Mosque. Other churches were converted into mosques or demolished. Many of the former cultural elite left the city, mostly in the direction of Venice. During the Battle of Crete (May 1941), the Battle of Rethymno was fought between German paratroopers and combined forces of the Second Australian Imperial Force and the Hellenic Army. The Germans won the battle after creating huge damage.

Crete, the largest and most populous of the Greek islands, is located about 100 km south of the Peloponnese. Crete was the center of Europe's first advanced civilization, the Minoans, from 3000 to 1400 BC. The Minoan civilization was overrun by the Mycenaean civilization from mainland Greece. Crete was later ruled by Rome, then successively by the Byzantine Empire, the Byzantine Empire again, the Venetian Republic, and the Ottoman Empire. In 1898 Crete, whose people had for some time wanted to join the Greek state, achieved independence from the Ottomans, formally becoming the Cretan State. Crete became part of Greece in December 1913. In Hellenistic times, ancient Rhithymna was a small town. The name Rhithymna can be found in inscriptions and finds of coins minted in the town from the 4th and 3rd centuries BC. It continued to exist as a small town during the Roman period and the first Byzantine era, but was destroyed during the Arab conquest. Attempts to reconquer the island by the weakened Byzantine Empire were unsuccessful. The later Emperor Nicephorus II succeeded in reintegrating the island into the Byzantine Empire in 960/961. The second Byzantine era ended after the capture of Constantinople in 1204 by the crusaders of the Fourth Crusade. To finance the war, Crete was sold to the Venetians for 10,000 silver marks. By 1218, the Venetians had conquered the entire island against the resistance of the locals. Rethymno began a period of growth when the Venetians decided to establish an intermediate commercial station between Heraklion and Chania. Today's old town was almost entirely built by the Republic of Venice. The town was captured by the Ottoman Empire in and they ruled it for almost three centuries. The town gradually took on a Muslim character. In 1647, the main Catholic church of San Nicolo was rededicated as the Sultan Ibrahim Mosque. Other churches were converted into mosques or demolished. Many of the former cultural elite left the city, mostly in the direction of Venice. During the Battle of Crete (May 1941), the Battle of Rethymno was fought between German paratroopers and combined forces of the Second Australian Imperial Force and the Hellenic Army. The Germans won the battle after creating huge damage. Rethymno’s largest church, the Church of the Four Martyrs is a rather new building, dating to 1975. The Four Martyrs were Angelis, Manouil, Georgios and Nikolaos. They were all members of a family, which had feigned conversion to Islam to gain the benefits by the local Ottoman rulers. Hence, they were wealthy and upstanding members of the local community. When the 1821 Revolution broke out, they joined the side of the Cretan rebels against the Ottomans. They took part in the rebellion until 1824, when Crete was subdued by the Egyptians and they were arrested as apostates. The Pasha offered them to reconvert to Islam to spare their lives, but they refused. On October 28th, 1824, following four months of torture, the Four Martyrs were taken to the Porta Guora, where they were decapitated.

A view of the Psiloritis massif from Heraklion. The highest peak in the massif is Psiloritis, at 2,456 metres. It is surrounded by four other peaks over 2,200 metres high: Agathias (2,424 metres), Stolistra (2,325 metres), Voulomenou (2,267 metres) and Koussakas (2,209 metres).

This jewel of a phone is waiting for an antique dealer with a screw driver

Petousis is a large yet cozy restaurant with excellent service. Two desserts and a small bottle of Tsikoudia—a spirit distilled from grape pomace of Cretan origin, which can contain up to 60 percent alcohol by volume. Similar to Cypriot Zivania, that we had had a week ago, but stronger

Petousis is a large yet cozy restaurant with excellent service. Mix Grill Platter - for two, the small version.

Crete is the largest and most populous of the Greek islands, is located about 100 km south of the Peloponnese. Crete was the center of Europe's first advanced civilization, the Minoans, from 3000 to 1400 BC. The Minoan civilization was overrun by the Mycenaean civilization from mainland Greece. Crete was later ruled by Rome, then successively by the Byzantine Empire, Andalusian Arabs, the Byzantine Empire again, the Venetian Republic, and the Ottoman Empire. In 1898 Crete, whose people had for some time wanted to join the Greek state, achieved independence from the Ottomans, formally becoming the Cretan State. Crete became part of Greece in December 1913. Heraklion is the largest city and the administrative capital of the island of Crete. With a municipal population of about 180.000 it is the fourth largest city in Greece. The greater area of Heraklion has been continuously inhabited since at least 7000 BCE, making it one of the oldest inhabited regions in Europe. As a major center of the Minoan civilization it often considered Europe's oldest city. "Hagios Markos" is a former Roman Catholic basilica, situated in the Eleftheriou Venizelou Square. It was built in 1239, during the Venetian rule of the island, following the conquest after the Fourth Crusade. After the Ottoman conquest of Crete in 1669, it was converted into a mosque. The building was used as a mosque until 1915. After the Greco-Turkish population exchange in 1924 the former mosque came to the municipality of Heraklion and was used at first as a cinema. In the early 1950s the municipal council suggested that the church be demolished and a municipal theatre or a post office be built in its place, a plan which was abandoned as the necessary funds could not be collected. In 1954 the archaeological council decided on the preservation of the church and in 1956 restoration works of the basilica began. Ever since the completion of the restoration works in 1960, the former church has been used as a municipal art gallery.

Crete is the largest and most populous of the Greek islands, is located about 100 km south of the Peloponnese. Crete was the center of Europe's first advanced civilization, the Minoans, from 3000 to 1400 BC. The Minoan civilization was overrun by the Mycenaean civilization from mainland Greece. Crete was later ruled by Rome, then successively by the Byzantine Empire, Andalusian Arabs, the Byzantine Empire again, the Venetian Republic, and the Ottoman Empire. In 1898 Crete, whose people had for some time wanted to join the Greek state, achieved independence from the Ottomans, formally becoming the Cretan State. Crete became part of Greece in December 1913. Heraklion is the largest city and the administrative capital of the island of Crete. With a municipal population of about 180.000 it is the fourth largest city in Greece. The greater area of Heraklion has been continuously inhabited since at least 7000 BCE, making it one of the oldest inhabited regions in Europe. As a major center of the Minoan civilization it often considered Europe's oldest city. "Hagios Markos" is a former Roman Catholic basilica, situated in the Eleftheriou Venizelou Square. It was built in 1239, during the Venetian rule of the island, following the conquest after the Fourth Crusade. After the Ottoman conquest of Crete in 1669, it was converted into a mosque. The building was used as a mosque until 1915. After the Greco-Turkish population exchange in 1924 the former mosque came to the municipality of Heraklion and was used at first as a cinema. In the early 1950s the municipal council suggested that the church be demolished and a municipal theatre or a post office be built in its place, a plan which was abandoned as the necessary funds could not be collected. In 1954 the archaeological council decided on the preservation of the church and in 1956 restoration works of the basilica began. Ever since the completion of the restoration works in 1960, the former church has been used as a municipal art gallery.

Crete is the largest and most populous of the Greek islands, is located about 100 km south of the Peloponnese. Crete was the center of Europe's first advanced civilization, the Minoans, from 3000 to 1400 BC. The Minoan civilization was overrun by the Mycenaean civilization from mainland Greece. Crete was later ruled by Rome, then successively by the Byzantine Empire, Andalusian Arabs, the Byzantine Empire again, the Venetian Republic, and the Ottoman Empire. In 1898 Crete, whose people had for some time wanted to join the Greek state, achieved independence from the Ottomans, formally becoming the Cretan State. Crete became part of Greece in December 1913. Heraklion is the largest city and the administrative capital of the island of Crete. With a municipal population of about 180.000 it is the fourth largest city in Greece. The greater area of Heraklion has been continuously inhabited since at least 7000 BCE, making it one of the oldest inhabited regions in Europe. As a major center of the Minoan civilization it often considered Europe's oldest city. "Hagios Markos" is a former Roman Catholic basilica, situated in the Eleftheriou Venizelou Square. It was built in 1239, during the Venetian rule of the island, following the conquest after the Fourth Crusade. After the Ottoman conquest of Crete in 1669, it was converted into a mosque. The building was used as a mosque until 1915. After the Greco-Turkish population exchange in 1924 the former mosque came to the municipality of Heraklion and was used at first as a cinema. In the early 1950s the municipal council suggested that the church be demolished and a municipal theatre or a post office be built in its place, a plan which was abandoned as the necessary funds could not be collected. In 1954 the archaeological council decided on the preservation of the church and in 1956 restoration works of the basilica began. Ever since the completion of the restoration works in 1960, the former church has been used as a municipal art gallery.

Lamb's heads are a common (and inexpensive) delicacy in the Eastern Mediterranean. To the average tourist—like me—such heads always look a bit creepy.

This shop was my favourite when I visited in 2025 – and it still is. If they don’t stock it here, you don’t need it.