Lot-et-Garonne (47) and Gironde (33)

Saint-Palais, the parish church of Saint-Palais (pop. ~500), dates back to the 12th century, when it was dependent of the Premonstratensian abbey in neighbouring Pleine Selve. Now I had left Charente-Maritime and entered the département Gironde.

Saint-Palais, the parish church of Saint-Palais (pop. ~500), dates back to the 12th century, when it was dependent of the Premonstratensian abbey in neighbouring Pleine Selve. To motivate the pilgrims in their way south one of the pillars displays nice Coquilles Saint Jacques. Next to the capital (left) a green lizard takes a sunbath.

A summer evening in Blaye. From the top of the fortress (planned by Vauban), once important for the safety of the harbour in Bordeaux, tourists have a wonderful view over Gironde. The fortress is a UNESCO World Heritage Site today. Later I had a bottle of Premieres Cotes de Blaye.

Most of the Romanesque church erected in the 12th century and dedicated to Saint Vincent is lost or got replaced later. Only large parts of the impressive western facade, with the intricate friezes, and the massive rectangular tower (not to be seen from this pov) survived.

Most of the Romanesque church erected in the 12th century and dedicated to Saint Vincent is lost or got replaced later. Parts of the impressive western facade, with the intricate friezes, survived. Here is one of them (partly seen). The "lush" style is very typical for the Saintonge area, as well as the "theme". A man entangled by vines and twiners in a jungle like environment. He seems to float in this jungle, that is populated by strange, dangerous animals (twin lions sharing one head, angry birds). These "floaters" are an icon, that can often be found here. Souls fighting the evil. Maybe..

In "De Bello Gallico" Julius Caesar mentions "Blavia Santorum", what developed into a fortified place in Roman times. Within the 4th century a basilica was built on the rocky promontory, in 625 a Merovingian castle existed here. Legendary Roland, nephew and paladin of Charlemagne, the owner of the sword Durendal (see "Rocamadour"), who got killed at the Battle of Roncevaux, was Lord of Blaye. The Basilica Saint-Romain was a major halt for all medieval pilgrims, but the basilica (and hundreds of houses) got destroyed, when the citadelle was built by Vauban in the 17th century. There are different variants of the "Via Turonensis" all leading to Bordeaux. I had decided to cross the Gironde here by the ferry next day - and hoped for better weather.

In "De Bello Gallico" Julius Caesar mentions "Blavia Santorum", what developed into a fortified place in Roman times. Within the 4th century a basilica was built on the rocky promontory, in 625 a Merovingian castle existed here. Legendary Roland, nephew and paladin of Charlemagne, the owner of the sword Durendal (see "Rocamadour"), who got killed at the Battle of Roncevaux, was Lord of Blaye. The Basilica Saint-Romain was a major halt for all medieval pilgrims, but the basilica (and hundreds of houses) got destroyed, when the citadelle was built by Vauban in the 17th century. Inside the citadelle was a convent of the Order of Minims, founded by Francis of Paola and known in Bavaria for the "Paulaner Beer". The monks had a nice cloister. The beer is here: www.paulaner.com/

In "De Bello Gallico" Julius Caesar mentions "Blavia Santorum", what developed into a fortified place in Roman times. Within the 4th century a basilica was built on the rocky promontory, in 625 a Merovingian castle existed here. Legendary Roland, nephew and paladin of Charlemagne, the owner of the sword Durendal (see "Rocamadour"), who got killed at the Battle of Roncevaux, was Lord of Blaye. The Basilica Saint-Romain was a major halt for all medieval pilgrims, but the basilica (and hundreds of houses) got destroyed, when the citadelle was built by Vauban in the 17th century. The Gironde, seen from the citadelle, on a rainy day.

The more I travelled - the more I loved launderettes, especially, when I am walking. There is a relaxing hour to spend at least, waiting for the washing machine and another half an hour to listen to the dryer... And after that all the stuff is clean and has a nice smell.

A forgotten baker shop in Blaye. Behind every single given-up shop is a tragedy. Walking through the countryside in France, I came across lots of these. For a while, I pondered, whether I should buy these old signs - to save them.

There are variants of the "Via Turonensis". I had decided to cross the Gironde in Blaye and continue the "chemin" on the other side. The rain had stopped over night. When I waited for the ferry, the sun was out.

The Citadelle de Blaye, seen from the ferry, crossing the Gironde.

Crossing the Gironde, an estuary formed from the meeting of the rivers Dordogne and Garonne near the centre of Bordeaux. It is upto 15kms wide.

I had crossed the Gironde and now had entered the Médoc peninsula. The track run south along the water's edge, where fishermen had built huts on stilts. These fishing nets (carrelet) are used all over the area.

I had crossed the Gironde and now had entered the Médoc peninsula. The track run south along the water's edge and got a bit muddy.

The track had turned inland. Obviously some "pelerins" had gone astray here, so that a friendly person had created this helpful sign. Together with the "Coquille Saint-Jacques" the "château d'eau" looks a bit like a crippled octopus.

Approaching Margaux, I crossed through vinyards. The Médoc is known for most prestigious and expensive French red wines. I do prefer an affordable "Côtes de Blaye" from the eastern side of the Gironde, but I I have to admit, I never ever tasted Crus du Médoc (Pauillac, Margaux, Saint-Julien..). I just can´t afford to spend a week´s budget for a bottle of wine.

Margaux was - disappointing. I had the impression the place just exists to host the "oenotourists" (later I heard somebody calling them "winos"). There are many prestigious "chateaus" - and expensive restaurants. No places you would enter with dried mud on your shoes. So I had a meal in the "Margaux Snack'in" and then continued, passing this nice garage. margauxsnackin.com/