France, April 2008

I couldn't like Oradour. That's a strange thing to say, I know: how could you "like" a village which the nazis just turned up one day and destroyed? They shot practically everyone. Just like that. But this place has been "preserved" in a way which, for me, stripped it of any emotion, of any sort. There are a few too many rusty sewing machines on windowsills. It's been manipulated. I was deeply moved when I read about the village, but not when I saw it. Actually, I recommend you don't go, just find out about those people and be satisfied with that. The wartime bunker we found later, by accident, was infinitely more imbued with memories and – dare I say – ghosts.

I couldn't like Oradour. That's a strange thing to say, I know: how could you "like" a village which the nazis just turned up one day and destroyed? They shot practically everyone. Just like that. But this place has been "preserved" in a way which, for me, stripped it of any emotion, of any sort. There are a few too many rusty sewing machines on windowsills. It's been manipulated. I was deeply moved when I read about the village, but not when I saw it. Actually, I recommend you don't go, just find out about those people and be satisfied with that. The wartime bunker we found later, by accident, was infinitely more imbued with memories and – dare I say – ghosts.

I couldn't like Oradour. That's a strange thing to say, I know: how could you "like" a village which the nazis just turned up one day and destroyed? They shot practically everyone. Just like that. But this place has been "preserved" in a way which, for me, stripped it of any emotion, of any sort. There are a few too many rusty sewing machines on windowsills. It's been manipulated. I was deeply moved when I read about the village, but not when I saw it. Actually, I recommend you don't go, just find out about those people and be satisfied with that. The wartime bunker we found later, by accident, was infinitely more imbued with memories and – dare I say – ghosts.

In marked contrast to the tragic church at Oradour, this is the one opposite Jane's place. It's not seen much violence for a good few decades, although the village and the former religious community here were walled and had their share of trouble in religious wars long ago. Its peace today is disturbed mainly by large trucks avoiding the toll roads.

I just loved these period signs. Check out the style of the cars and van, and even the tread patterns in those tyres. This barn used to be part of a garage, but is now part of a family home, so these signs are hopefully safe for the duration.

This little guy was sooooo sleepy, but when he saw the camera, he knew what to do :)

This little guy was sooooo sleepy, but when he saw the camera, he knew what to do :)

I'm in this photo three times (at least). In the mirror, in the copper jug, and – unexpectedly – refracted (?) in the glass, too.

Oh, my word. This is a thing of beauty.

Oh, my word. This is a thing of beauty.

Oh, my word. This is a thing of beauty.