Portugal / Região Norte

The church was built over a pre-Romanesque one dating from the 8th/9th century. In 1100 the church and the convent were bestowed by Henry of Burgundy, Count of Portugal, the Cluniac priorate of La Charite-sur-Loire (about 1500kms northeast). French monks moved in, helping the pilgrims heading north to Santiago. The convent gathered impetus in the 12th century with the support of Afonso I of Portugal (aka "Dom Afonso Henriques", as he was Henry of Burgundy´s son). The church São Pedro de Rates is the the only remaining building of the former monastery. It is believed to be one of the oldest existing romanesque churches in Portugal. The nave.

The church was built over a pre-Romanesque one dating from the 8th/9th century. In 1100 the church and the convent were bestowed by Henry of Burgundy, Count of Portugal, the Cluniac priorate of La Charite-sur-Loire (about 1500kms northeast). French monks moved in, helping the pilgrims heading north to Santiago. The convent gathered impetus in the 12th century with the support of Afonso I of Portugal (aka "Dom Afonso Henriques", as he was Henry of Burgundy´s son). The church São Pedro de Rates is the the only remaining building of the former monastery. It is believed to be one of the oldest existing romanesque churches in Portugal. A little rough carved "Agnus Dei" inside the church. Another one is on the tympanum of the side portal. This one has the inscription "AGNUSD".

The church was built over a pre-Romanesque one dating from the 8th/9th century. In 1100 the church and the convent were bestowed by Henry of Burgundy, Count of Portugal, the Cluniac priorate of La Charite-sur-Loire (about 1500kms northeast). French monks moved in, helping the pilgrims heading north to Santiago. The convent gathered impetus in the 12th century with the support of Afonso I of Portugal (aka "Dom Afonso Henriques", as he was Henry of Burgundy´s son). The church São Pedro de Rates is the the only remaining building of the former monastery. It is believed to be one of the oldest existing romanesque churches in Portugal. Armageddon? Are these two of the seven trumpets, that are mentioned in the Revelation 8? If yes, a grave has opened below - and a soul is rising. Listen how Johnny Cash has seen the scene: www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9IfHDi-2EA

After I had hiked the "Caminho Portugues" some years ago, I returned and now (using a car) could "explore" a little bit more of Northern Portugal. I had crossed the river Ave via this 12th century-bridge on my way to Rates. The building in front is one of three mills, that once existed here.

Braga is the center of one of the oldest dioceses of the iberian peninsula, dating to the back to the Migration Period, when Martin of Dumio was able to christianize the invading Suebi tribes, who founded a kingdom here, after the roman power crumbled. The cathedral originally dates back to the 12th century, but it got greatly modified, resulting in a mix of romanesque, gothic baroquche parts. This is the main portal (western façade). The gallery was built in gothic style between 1486 and 1501, the middle arch seems older, the upper part and the towers were "modernised" during the 19th century.

The south side of the cathedral in Braga does have a romanesque portal. Here the the romanesque architecture of a "basilica", with its tall central nave and the lower aisles, is in evidence

The old roman road, that was constructed around 100 aC, runs from (today) Braga to (today) Ourense. In Rubiães the roman engineers left this bridge over the little stream. It is still in use.

The legend of the Rooster of Barcelos ("Lenda do Galo de Barcelos") tells the story of a dead rooster's miraculous intervention in proving the innocence of a man who had been falsely accused and sentenced to death. According to the legend, silver had been stolen in Barcelos, and the inhabitants of that city were looking for the thieve. A man from Galicia became suspect, despite his pleas of innocence. The Galician swore that he was just passing through Barcelos on a Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. The authorities arrested the pilgrim and condemned him to hang, but he asked them to take him in front of the judge who had condemned him. So he was taken to the judge, who was holding a banquet with his friends. Affirming his innocence, the pilgrim pointed to a roasted cock on the table and exclaimed "It is as certain that I am innocent as it is certain that this rooster will crow when they hang me." The judge then not eat the rooster, but he ignored the Galician's appeal. However, while the pilgrim was being hanged, the roasted rooster stood up on the table and crowed. The judge ran to the gallows, to discover that the Galician had been saved from hanging thanks to a poorly made knot in the rope. The man was immediately freed and sent off in peace. Actually the legend exists in different variants along the different "Caminos de Santiago", but here the pilgrim returned to Barcelos and sculpted this "Cruzeiro do Senhor do Galo".

Mosteiro de Vilar de Frades (aka Mosteiro de São Salvador) is located east of Barcelos. A convent may have existed here already in the second half of the 6th century. After the Reconquista the monastery was refounded and rebuilt here and in 1059 Benedictine monks lived here. During the reign of Sancho I of Portugal (1185-1211) a Romanesque church was erected of which some parts still exist. Around 1400 the monastery was given up, but revitalized from 1425 by Mestre João Vicente. The monastery got enlarged and existed upto 1834. Today the buildings house a home for disabled people and sheltered workshops. The right part of the facade has the Romanesque facade, though it was taken down and rebuilt in the early 19th century. So this may not the original state.

Mosteiro de Vilar de Frades (aka Mosteiro de São Salvador) is located east of Barcelos. A convent may have existed here already in the second half of the 6th century. After the Reconquista the monastery was refounded and rebuilt here and in 1059 Benedictine monks lived here. During the reign of Sancho I of Portugal (1185-1211) a Romanesque church was erected of which some parts still exist. Around 1400 the monastery was given up, but revitalized from 1425 by Mestre João Vicente. The monastery got enlarged and existed upto 1834. Today the buildings house a home for disabled people and sheltered workshops. The portal of the Romanesque church is now "integrated" into the church´s facade. The portal was taken down and rebuilt in the early 19th century. So this may not the original state.

Mosteiro de Vilar de Frades (aka Mosteiro de São Salvador) is located east of Barcelos. A convent may have existed here already in the second half of the 6th century. After the Reconquista the monastery was refounded and rebuilt here and in 1059 Benedictine monks lived here. During the reign of Sancho I of Portugal (1185-1211) a Romanesque church was erected of which some parts still exist. Around 1400 the monastery was given up, but revitalized from 1425 by Mestre João Vicente. The monastery got enlarged and existed upto 1834. Today the buildings house a home for disabled people and sheltered workshops. The portal of the Romanesque church is now "integrated" into the church´s facade. The portal was taken down and rebuilt in the early 19th century. So this may not the original state. There are three archivolts with some interesting (and enigmatic) carvings. Is here a is a wrestling - or a hugging couple?

Mosteiro de Vilar de Frades (aka Mosteiro de São Salvador) is located east of Barcelos. A convent may have existed here already in the second half of the 6th century. After the Reconquista the monastery was refounded and rebuilt here and in 1059 Benedictine monks lived here. During the reign of Sancho I of Portugal (1185-1211) a Romanesque church was erected of which some parts still exist. Around 1400 the monastery was given up, but revitalized from 1425 by Mestre João Vicente. The monastery got enlarged and existed upto 1834. Today the buildings house a home for disabled people and sheltered workshops. The portal of the Romanesque church is now "integrated" into the church´s facade. The portal was taken down and rebuilt in the early 19th century. So this may not the original state. There are three archivolts with some interesting (and enigmatic) carvings. Above a bishop or abbot (crozier, mitra) is a knight on horseback with sword and shield. Horses were much smaller at that time, than they are today. But for sure - not that short.

Mosteiro de Vilar de Frades (aka Mosteiro de São Salvador) is located east of Barcelos. A convent may have existed here already in the second half of the 6th century. After the Reconquista the monastery was refounded and rebuilt here and in 1059 Benedictine monks lived here. During the reign of Sancho I of Portugal (1185-1211) a Romanesque church was erected of which some parts still exist. Around 1400 the monastery was given up, but revitalized from 1425 by Mestre João Vicente. The monastery got enlarged and existed upto 1834. Today the buildings house a home for disabled people and sheltered workshops. The portal of the Romanesque church is now "integrated" into the church´s facade. The portal was taken down and rebuilt in the early 19th century. So this may not the original state. There are three archivolts with some interesting (and enigmatic) carvings. There are three archivolts with some interesting (and enigmatic) carvings. Here are (outer archivolt) a well dressed lady. Manuel L. Real ("Portugal Roman", Edition Zodiaque) sees a dancer. She is followed by a fully armed knight and a mythivcl dragonlike animal, spitting fire.

Mosteiro de Vilar de Frades (aka Mosteiro de São Salvador) is located east of Barcelos. A convent may have existed here already in the second half of the 6th century. After the Reconquista the monastery was refounded and rebuilt here and in 1059 Benedictine monks lived here. During the reign of Sancho I of Portugal (1185-1211) a Romanesque church was erected of which some parts still exist. Around 1400 the monastery was given up, but revitalized from 1425 by Mestre João Vicente. The monastery got enlarged and existed upto 1834. Today the buildings house a home for disabled people and sheltered workshops. The portal of the Romanesque church is now "integrated" into the church´s facade. The portal was taken down and rebuilt in the early 19th century. So this may not the original state. There are three archivolts with some interesting (and enigmatic) carvings. This is the central stone of the outer archivolt. Five very stoic looking gentlemen, sitting on snakes. Are they fighting the snakes? Or are they demonstrating that snakes cannot harm them?

The Igreja de Arnoso Santa Maria, just south of Braga, is tiled with "azulejos", glazed tiles, that give it a distinctive, very "Portuguese" look. The blue/while tiles can be found on many buildings in Northern Portugal.

Probably founded between 1110 and 1130 by the local nobility, Augustine Canons lived in the Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Landim. The former convent´s church was largely remodeled within the 16th century. Today the church and the remaining (well restored) buildings are a favourite place for wedding parties. www.mosteirodelandim.com/

The settlement of Amarante became famous through the work of St. Gonçalo de Amarante (also known as São Gonçalo, 1187-1259). The Dominican friar settled here after his pilgrimages to Jerusalem and Rome. He was instrumental in the development of the region, with many local structures attributed to his efforts, including the construction of the stone bridge across the Tâmega River. Following his death, Amarante became the destination of pilgrimages and grew substantially. The Ponte de São Gonçalo was destroyed by a flood in 1763 and was rebuilt.

This is, what the small town got the name from - the "Ponte de Lima". The bridge over the river Lima is much older than the town itself. I was told, that Portugal has the most "antique bridges" of all countries in Europe - and this is one of them, even one of the really big ones, crossing the river in 16 arches. The Romans built the first bridge here around 100aC and the foundations of the bridge, we can walk over today - are still the original ones.