Carved graffiti

Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of the oldest churches of Rome. Legends have it that Pope Callixtus I (217-222) had the church built and that it got remodelled later a couple of times. Pope Innocent II (1130-1143) had it rebuilt on its old foundations. Since then It has the present form with three naves, lintelled columns, apse and transept, created largely by materials gleaned from the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla. The walls of the nartzhex are tiled with spolia. Here are some of spolia. The birds drinking from a chalice, but the barrel and the ship are clearly ancient graffiti.

The "Abbazia di Santa Maria di Valdiponte" ("Abbey of Montelabate") dates back to the 9th century. In 969 a Papal Bull ordered the Abbott Pietro to restore the monastery and to start there a new Benedictine convent. Located between Perugia and Gubbio the abbey, that belonged to the Cluniac network within the 12th century, prospered over centuries, but declined from mid 16th century on, after it had become a "commanderie". The commandatory abbot recieved the abbey from the pope as a benefice and without taking up residence was entitle to the revenues of the abbey. In 1602 the abbey became the center of a large agricultural holding, before in 1749 it came into the possesion of Cistercian monks. The Abbey suffered strongly during the Napoleonic times. After the Risorgimento it became property of the State. The huge archive was transferred to public libraries, the works of art were moved to the National Gallery of Umbria. Later it passed through several private ownerships and now it is owned by the Gerolamo Gaslini Foundation based in Genova. The crypt is probably the oldest part of the existing structure. The church above the crypt was of modest dimensions. This church got demolished, when the erection of the new, larger church started, as then building material was needed. This impressive Gothic abbey church is more than 30 meters long - and needs restoration. The walls are covered with graffiti, what is no surprise, as the French armee had been here during Napoleon´s Italian campaigns. One of the soldiers carved this "selfie". We were very lucky to join a group that had booked a guided tour through the abbey.

The "Abbazia di Santa Maria di Valdiponte" ("Abbey of Montelabate") dates back to the 9th century. In 969 a Papal Bull ordered the Abbott Pietro to restore the monastery and to start there a new Benedictine convent. Located between Perugia and Gubbio the abbey, that belonged to the Cluniac network within the 12th century, prospered over centuries, but declined from mid 16th century on, after it had become a "commanderie". The commandatory abbot recieved the abbey from the pope as a benefice and without taking up residence was entitle to the revenues of the abbey. In 1602 the abbey became the center of a large agricultural holding, before in 1749 it came into the possesion of Cistercian monks. The Abbey suffered strongly during the Napoleonic times. After the Risorgimento it became property of the State. The huge archive was transferred to public libraries, the works of art were moved to the National Gallery of Umbria. Later it passed through several private ownerships and now it is owned by the Gerolamo Gaslini Foundation based in Genova. The crypt is probably the oldest part of the existing structure. The church above the crypt was of modest dimensions. This church got demolished, when the erection of the new, larger church started, as then building material was needed. This impressive Gothic abbey church is more than 30 meters long - and needs restoration. The walls are covered with graffiti, what is no surprise, as the French armee had been here during Napoleon´s Italian campaigns. Here are long lists of names and dates. We were very lucky to join a group that had booked a guided tour through the abbey.

The "Abbazia di Santa Maria di Valdiponte" ("Abbey of Montelabate") dates back to the 9th century. In 969 a Papal Bull ordered the Abbott Pietro to restore the monastery and to start there a new Benedictine convent. Located between Perugia and Gubbio the abbey, that belonged to the Cluniac network within the 12th century, prospered over centuries, but declined from mid 16th century on, after it had become a "commanderie". The commandatory abbot recieved the abbey from the pope as a benefice and without taking up residence was entitle to the revenues of the abbey. In 1602 the abbey became the center of a large agricultural holding, before in 1749 it came into the possesion of Cistercian monks. The Abbey suffered strongly during the Napoleonic times. After the Risorgimento it became property of the State. The huge archive was transferred to public libraries, the works of art were moved to the National Gallery of Umbria. Later it passed through several private ownerships and now it is owned by the Gerolamo Gaslini Foundation based in Genova. The crypt is probably the oldest part of the existing structure. The church above the crypt was of modest dimensions. This church got demolished, when the erection of the new, larger church started, as then building material was needed. This impressive Gothic abbey church is more than 30 meters long - and needs restoration. The walls are covered with graffiti, what is no surprise, as the French armee had been here during Napoleon´s Italian campaigns. This graffito reads SERGIO in cyrillic letters. Actually the russian version of the name would be SERGEI (= Сергей). Who wrote that Italian name? Who was Sergio? We were very lucky to join a group that had booked a guided tour through the abbey.

A cathedral and a bishop's palace existed here already within the 9th century. The construction of the cathedral of today started in 1196, about 150 years later, the church may have been completed, but a massive addition of the cathedral was planned in 1339. It would have more than doubled the size of the structure by means of an entirely new nave and two aisles ranged perpendicular to the existing nave. The planned cathedral would have been larger than (old) Saint Peter in Rome, it was never completed. The construction was halted by the Black Death in 1348. Then errors in the static of the building got evident. A kind of under-church, that was underneath the choir of the cathedral had to be filled up, to give stability... and got completely forgotten. In 1999 this crypt was found and got excavated over the next years. Some some phantastic frescoes from around 1280 were discovered here. When the crypt about 700 years was filled up with debris, to stabilize the church above, it was clear that it would be unseen and - gone "for ever". So the workers had no hesitation, to leave graffiti. Some walls are completely covered. There are many geomatric patterns and knots.

A cathedral and a bishop's palace existed here already within the 9th century. The construction of the cathedral of today started in 1196, about 150 years later, the church may have been completed, but a massive addition of the cathedral was planned in 1339. It would have more than doubled the size of the structure by means of an entirely new nave and two aisles ranged perpendicular to the existing nave. The planned cathedral would have been larger than (old) Saint Peter in Rome, it was never completed. The construction was halted by the Black Death in 1348. Then errors in the static of the building got evident. A kind of under-church, that was underneath the choir of the cathedral had to be filled up, to give stability... and got completely forgotten. In 1999 this crypt was found and got excavated over the next years. Some some phantastic frescoes from around 1280 were discovered here. When the crypt about 700 years was filled up with debris, to stabilize the church above, it was clear that it would be unseen and - gone "for ever". So the workers had no hesitation, to leave graffiti. There are many geomatric patterns and knots. This outline of a hand reminds on prehistoric cave paintings (eg Pech Merle).

A cathedral and a bishop's palace existed here already within the 9th century. The construction of the cathedral of today started in 1196, about 150 years later, the church may have been completed, but a massive addition of the cathedral was planned in 1339. It would have more than doubled the size of the structure by means of an entirely new nave and two aisles ranged perpendicular to the existing nave. The planned cathedral would have been larger than (old) Saint Peter in Rome, it was never completed. The construction was halted by the Black Death in 1348. Then errors in the static of the building got evident. A kind of under-church, that was underneath the choir of the cathedral had to be filled up, to give stability... and got completely forgotten. In 1999 this crypt was found and got excavated over the next years. Some some phantastic frescoes from around 1280 were discovered here. When the crypt about 700 years was filled up with debris, to stabilize the church above, it was clear that it would be unseen and - gone "for ever". So the workers had no hesitation, to leave graffiti on the walls.

Serravalle (= narrow valley) is part of the larger Varano de' Melegari. The Via Francigena crossed the river Ceno nearby in medieval times. A church was erected over the ruins of a Roman temple, dedicated to Diana, within the 10th century. This church was destroyed by an earthquake in the 14th century. It is locally claimed, that the octagonal baptistery (left), to be the oldest structure in the Parma region dating back to the 8th century. It was more likely built in the 10th/11th century, when the church gained importance as "pieve". The octagonal plan is very common for baptisteries (not only in Italy) is according to Saint Ambrogio the ideal plan for these buildings. The number "seven" represents life on earth (six days for the creation and the seventh for God´s rest). The "eight" stands for the life after the resurrection made possible through the baptism. There are many ancient graffiti craved into the outside walls of the baptistery. Over the centuries, many pilgrims on their way to Rome (or back) left marks. These "soles" are typical for (walking) pilgrims. Pilgrims traveling one horseback (or mules) often left "horseshoe-graffiti", but I found no horseshoe here. Riders may have taken a different track.

In the center of Modena, where the Duomo di Modena (aka "Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta e San Geminiano") is placed, churches have existed since the 5th century. After the burial site of Modena's patron Saint Geminianus, a former bishop (+397), was dicovered here, the existing cathedral seemed to small. The first stone laying for the cathedral of today took place in May 1099, strongly supported by Matilde di Canossa (aka "Matilda of Tuscany"). First architect was Master Lanfranco, descibed as "maestro ingenio clarus [...] doctus et aptus". The Duomo di Modena was consecrated in 1184, but the building process continued. It was finally completed in 1322. The interior of the Duomo is divided into one nave and two aisles, the interior length is 63 metres. Below the risen presbyterium is the crypt, where since 1106 the remains of Saint Geminianus are kept. Many small graffiti cover the pillars in the crypt. It must have taken some effort to carve in such a large cross and the initials. Below the letters is another small cross.

Erected within the 10th century, the chapel meanwhile next to a roundabout, just outside Pezens. The road (D6113) runs west to Castelnaudry and was used already by pilgrims on their way to Santiago during medieval times. "Horseshoes" are one both sides of chapel´s portal. These horseshoes are very typical graffiti carved by pilgrims travelling with horses or mules.

As I waited for the friendly person to unlock and open the "hôpital", I had time to walk around and see the many graffiti, scratched in by pilgrims centuries ago. I had been here before, but there are so many.. Here is a large a fish (pike?) and (right) triangels and a hatchet, used by carpenters.

As I waited for the friendly person to unlock and open the "hôpital", I had time to walk around and see the many graffiti, scratched in by pilgrims centuries ago. I had been here before, but there are so many.. On the walls of the neighbouring building, that once belonged to the "hôpital", are - ships!

Saint-Seurin was originally built outside the city walls close to an ancient necropolis. The Abbey of St. Seurin bears the name of the venerated fourth bishop of Bordeaux. A first building, confirmed towards mid 5th century, got destroyed by the Normans in the 8th century. It was reconstructed above the crypt of St. Seurin from the 11th to 13th centuries. The church underwent many modifications and got a new facade during the 19th century. Behind this facade parts of the Romanesque portal got saved. In and around this portal are many graffiti. Some may be carved in by pilgrims in medieval times ("arrows"), some may date to the Revolution or the early 19th century, when the building was unattended. Here "Jacques" left his signature. Bordeaux was one of the major halts on the Via Turonensis. The grave of Saint-Seurin was an important place for the many pilgrims. Another precious relic, shown here, was the ivory horn of Roland, who died at Roncevaux and whose (legendary) burial place most pilgrims will have seen in Blaye. Tradition claims that the horn "olifant", still reported in the 17th century and lost before the French Revolution, had been left by the Charlemagne on the altar of St. Seurin.

Saint-Georges is located in the center of the village Saint-Jeanvrin (pop. ~200), what means probably since the early times "la fête" is celebtrated right here. We arrived, when the preparation were still ongoing. The church was erected in the first half of the 12th century and then was dedicated to Saint Janvier (= Januarius) hence the name of the village. Like many other churches/priories in the area, it was depended on the Notre-Dame de Déols (about 60kms northwest). Pope Pascal II confirmed this ownership in 1115. The single nave church was erected on the blueprint of a "Latin Cross" and embellished with some nice carvings and even frescoes. In and outside the church are many graffiti likes this one. CLAUCEMESCI ?? - 1589

The Reichenbach Monastery ("Kloster Reichenbach") was founded in 1082 as the first priory of Hirsau Abbey. Abbot Wilhelm of Hirsau sent eight monks from Hirsau, to settle the place. The building of the church must have started immediately as already three years later the church, dedicated to Gregory the Great, got consecrated. It is hard to imagine, that the church seen today, was built within only three years, but it may well be, that the Bishop of Konstanz consecrated, while the work was still in progress. The priory existed upto the Reformation, when the whole area turned Protestant. Today the church is the parochial Lutheran church of Klosterreichenbach. There are a couple of carved graffiti in and outside the church. Here is a weathered portrait of an egghead.

Pont du Gard is a Roman aqueduct that crosses the Gardon River. It is one of the best preserved aqueducts and part of the Nîmes aqueduct, a 50-kilometre system built in the first century AD to carry water from a spring at Uzès to Nîmes, a Roman colony named Nemausus. After the Roman Empire collapsed, the aqueduct fell into disuse. The Pont du Gard remained largely intact, due to the importance of its secondary function. It was used as a toll bridge, so for centuries the local lords and bishops were responsible for its upkeep. Starting in the 18th century the Pont du Gard became a tourist destination. Today it is one of France's most popular tourist attractions with about 1.4 million visitors per year, who all take photos... For centuries, Pont du Gard was a huge, unattended structure, so it is no surprise, that it is covered by graffiti. Most date from the 19th century, when tourists came here, and "left" names and dates. Here are three, that may have been carved by travelling smiths or roofers, as both guilds used a hammer as their symbol. In medieval times the "journeymen" had to travel - and learn for years, before they were allowed to settle down. Some such guilds still exist. "Die Freien Vogtländer" is a German guild www.freie-vogtlaender.eu/de/ This guild is a member of the "Conféderation Compagnonnages Europäische Gesellenzünfte" cceg.eu/?lang=en

Pont du Gard is a Roman aqueduct that crosses the Gardon River. It is one of the best preserved aqueducts and part of the Nîmes aqueduct, a 50-kilometre system built in the first century AD to carry water from a spring t Uzès to Nîmes, a Roman colony named Nemausus. After the Roman Empire collapsed, the aqueduct fell into disuse. The Pont du Gard remained largely intact, due to the importance of its secondary function. It was used as a toll bridge, so for centuries the local lords and bishops were responsible for its upkeep. Starting in the 18th century the Pont du Gard became a tourist destination. Today it is one of France's most popular tourist attractions with about 1.4 million visitors per year, who all take photos... For centuries, Pont du Gard was a huge, unattended structure, so it is no surprise, that it is covered by graffiti. Most date from the 19th century, when tourists came here, and "left" names and dates. More guild-symbols (maybe!), just like the three hammers (previous upload), here is another hammer (left). In the center is a hammer and two compasses. "Hammer and compass" was the guild symbol of bricklayers. It could as well be a Masonic symbol. The graffito is too old to stand for the national emblem of "East Germany" (GDR). In medieval times the "journeymen" had to travel - and learn for years, before they were allowed to settle down. Some such guilds still exist. "Die Freien Vogtländer" is a German guild www.freie-vogtlaender.eu/de/ This guild is a member of the "Conféderation Compagnonnages Europäische Gesellenzünfte" cceg.eu/?lang=en

Most of the Romanesque church erected in the 12th century and dedicated to Saint Vincent got lost and got replaced later. Only large parts of the impressive western facade, with the intricate frieze survived. I had once passed through Marciac, when I walked the Via Turonensis, one of the many chemins to Santiago de Compostella. Thousands of people had done that over the centuries - and they carved in graffiti on the outside walls of Saint-Vincent. Here is a horse.