Carved graffiti

Lucca existed already in Etruscan times and became a Roman colony in 180 BC. The Diocese of Lucca dates back to the first century, legends tell, that St. Paulinus, a disciple of St. Peter, was the first Bishop of Lucca. In medieval times Lucca was the residence of the Margraves of Tuscany. After the death of Matilda of Tuscany (1115), Lucca constituted itself as an independent republic. Actually the "Republic of Lucca" existed from 1160 to 1805. The Cathedral of Saint Martin is the seat of the Archbishop of Lucca. The construction of the cathedral started in 1063, when Anselm (later Pope Alexander II) was bishop here. The western facade was begun in 1204 by Guido Bigarelli, who later sculpted (and signed!) the the octogonal baptismal font in the center of the Pisan Baptistery. He is one of the many gifted artists, that came from the area around the Lake Como and are known as "Comacine masters". All around the portico are numerous carved graffiti. Visitors left their names or initials. Here a knight on horseback. The small horse seems somehow out of proportion.

The construction of the "Duomo" began in 1064 by the architect Busketo, who with this structure set the model for the distinctive Pisan Romanesque style of architecture. When the construction of this cathedral started, Pisa was on a height of political (and financial) power. Pisa was an important commercial centre controlling large parts of the Mediterranean merchant fleet and navy. In 1017 Pisa had militarily supported the Sardinian "Giudicati" (regional kings) to defeat Saracen troops in the north of Sardinia. Between 1030 and 1035, Pisa defeated rival towns in Sicily. In 1051–1052 admiral Jacopo Ciurini conquered Corsica. In 1063 admiral Giovanni Orlando, coming to the aid of the Norman Roger I, took Palermo from the Saracen. The gold treasure taken from the Saracens in Palermo allowed the Pisans to start the building of the cathedral - and all other building of the "Piazza del Duomo". But the victorious Pisans did not only bring gold back, when they looted an area. They dismantled complete buildings and shipped the marble home, to be used here. So there are a lot of inscriptions and even carvings all around the duomo, that once have been somewhere else. I am not sure, is this a graffiti? Or a spolia? "BONUS ET SUI NEPOTES" - "Bonus and his nephews".

The first church here was an oratorium, erected built around 370 over a Roman graveyard and dedicated to St. Hilary, the first bishop of Poitiers. This chapel was destroyed by Vandals in 412, got rebuilt and got destroyed again by the Huns in 453. After that a convent settled here and rebuilt the oratorium, but it got again pillaged and ruined by Moorish and later Norman troops. The large church seen today dates mostly from the 11th century. A fire around 1100 destroyed the wooden roof. The new roof was from stone. It was so heavy that an extra row of columns on each side of the nave had to be build at that time. Thanks to the tomb of Saint-Hilaire, the church attracted many pilgrims following the Via Turonensis on their way to Santiago de Compostela. This tradition goes on, as even today there is a special "tampon" for the visiting "pelerins". Protestant troops damaged and pillaged the church in 1572 and when the tower collapsed in 1590, the facade and aisles were badly damaged. More damage and pillaging took place during the Revolution in 1793. The church was restored in 1870. The western part of the nave got demolished, the shortened nave got rebuilt from the ground up. It is no surprise, that a building ruined and neglected such a long time is dotted with graffiti. This was an "open space" for all over a century. To the left are some traces of a frescoe.

Since the times of Hugh Capet, the first King of the Franks of the House of Capet, Étampes was an important place. It was a crown domain between Paris and Orleans. Hugh´s son Robert II (aka "Robert the Pious") built a stronghold here and founded a collegiate here in the 11th century. The former collegiate church Notre-Dame-du-Fort was erected within the 12th century in (traditional) Romanesque and (modern) Gothic style. Only the crypt dates back to the earlier 10th century-church. Here the relics of the martyrs Cantius, Cantianus, and Cantianilla were kept. The popular saints were orphaned siblings beheaded during Diocletian's persecution. "Robert the Pious" had transferred the relics to Étampes from Milano. Since the 19th century Notre-Dame-du-Fort serves the parish. In 1562, during the first War of Religions, the Calvinist troops raided, ransacked and vandalized the church. Whatever was spared outside the church, it got smashed during the French Revolution. The crypt is the oldest part of Notre-Dame-du-Fort, as this goes back to the church of the early 11th century, commissioned by Robert the Pious. This is a "hall crypt", with six pillars and a little apse. Obviously this capital, near to the stairs, got lost and the plaster was a perfect place to carve in graffiti.

The "Priory of Saint Sulpice" is located about 4km south east of Les Ormes, near the "Château de La Fontaine". The priory was depended from the Benedictine "Abbey of Noyers", founded near Nouatre (16km north) in 1030. In 1035 land was given to the abbey here, so the the abbey could establish the priory soon after. The size of area was defined by what "could be ploughed by six oxes within a day" (~10 acres). This makes clear, that the monks installed a working farm here, producing food and funds for the abbey. This is still clearly visible, as many buildings of the priory still exist. Over the centuries a small hamlet grew up around the (fortified!) priory. The priory is privately owned since the French Revolution. We were lucky, to meet the owner, who not only allowed us to enter the premises but also showed us the priory and told us many details of it´s history. Merci beaucoup! The priory existed through many wars and feuds including the Hundred Years War and the French Wars of Religion. After the French Revolution all monks and lay brothers had left and the priory got sold. Soon after a school was installed in the church building. A perfect place to leave carved graffiti. These faces are from an outside wall.

The "Priory of Saint Sulpice" is located about 4km south east of Les Ormes, near the "Château de La Fontaine". The priory was depended from the Benedictine "Abbey of Noyers", founded near Nouatre (16km north) in 1030. In 1035 land was given to the abbey here, so the the abbey could establish the priory soon after. The size of area was defined by what "could be ploughed by six oxes within a day" (~10 acres). This makes clear, that the monks installed a working farm here, producing food and funds for the abbey. This is still clearly visible, as many buildings of the priory still exist. Over the centuries a small hamlet grew up around the (fortified!) priory. The priory is privately owned since the French Revolution. We were lucky, to meet the owner, who not only allowed us to enter the premises but also showed us the priory and told us many details of it´s history. Merci beaucoup! The priory existed through many wars and feuds including the Hundred Years War and the French Wars of Religion. After the French Revolution all monks and lay brothers had left and the priory got sold. Soon after a school was installed in the church building. A perfect place to leave carved graffiti. This face was carved inside the church.

Already Theodoric the Great, King of the Ostrogoths, may have funded a church, erected over the tomb of Saint Zeno, who, following the legends, was born in Mauretania and died around 380 in Verona. The erection of the present church began in the 9th century. Soon after San Zeno´s relics were translated into the new church. At that time Charlemagne´s son Pepin (aka "Pepin of Italy") resided in Verona and a large Benedictine monastery grew all around the church. When the Magyars invaded Italy in the early 10th century, the church got severely damaged, but the relics were not harmed, as they had been taken out and were hidden. In 967, a new church was built with the patronage of Otto I. On January 3, 1117, the church was damaged by an earthquake, that ruined so many buildings in Northern Italy. The church was restored and got enlarged in 1138. All the 13th-14th century frescoes, that are in "easy reach" for vandals, are covered with old graffiti.

Already Theodoric the Great, King of the Ostrogoths, may have funded a church, erected over the tomb of Saint Zeno, who, following the legends, was born in Mauretania and died around 380 in Verona. The erection of the present church began in the 9th century. Soon after San Zeno´s relics were translated into the new church. At that time Charlemagne´s son Pepin (aka "Pepin of Italy") resided in Verona and a large Benedictine monastery grew all around the church. When the Magyars invaded Italy in the early 10th century, the church got severely damaged, but the relics were not harmed, as they had been taken out and were hidden. In 967, a new church was built with the patronage of Otto I. On January 3, 1117, the church was damaged by an earthquake, that ruined so many buildings in Northern Italy. The church was restored and got enlarged in 1138. All the 13th-14th century frescoes, that are in "easy reach" for vandals, are covered with old graffiti.

Already Theodoric the Great, King of the Ostrogoths, may have funded a church, erected over the tomb of Saint Zeno, who, following the legends, was born in Mauretania and died around 380 in Verona. The erection of the present church began in the 9th century. Soon after San Zeno´s relics were translated into the new church. At that time Charlemagne´s son Pepin (aka "Pepin of Italy") resided in Verona and a large Benedictine monastery grew all around the church. When the Magyars invaded Italy in the early 10th century, the church got severely damaged, but the relics were not harmed, as they had been taken out and were hidden. In 967, a new church was built with the patronage of Otto I. On January 3, 1117, the church was damaged by an earthquake, that ruined so many buildings in Northern Italy. The church was restored and got enlarged in 1138. All the 13th-14th century frescoes, that are in "easy reach" for vandals, are covered with old graffiti.

The Chapelle Sainte-Anne-de-Goiron, erected in the 11th century, is on a very ilsotade place, high in the mountains, overlooking the valley of the Durance. Nearby is only to the former hermitage in a troglodyte grotto. The chapel was a place of local pilgrimage for a long time and there are still some ex-votos. The chapel got enlarged during the 13th and renovated end of the 19th century. There are many carved graffiti on the outer walls of the chapel. Near the entrance "Marie de Coaces" (??) engraved her name long time ago... Or maybe "S(aint) Marie de Co(??)aece"?

The "Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine" in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume (pop. ~ 14.000) is not only one of the largest but as most important Gothic churches in of the Provence. A small merovingien church existed here, until a sarcophagus was discovered inside the church´s crypt in 1279. The inscription made clear, that this was the tomb of Mary Magdalene. Her relics had been venerated in Vezeley since the early 11th century. Numerous pilgrims had headed to her relics since then and had made Vezelay Abbey to a major starting point for the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. According to legend a monk named Baudillon or Badilo brought the relics of Maria Magdalene from Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume to Vezelay through fear of the Saracens. In 1058 Pope Stephen IX had confirmed the authenticity of the relics. Until that time it was undisputed that Maria Magdalena was one of the The "Three Marys", who had fled the Holy Land by a miraculous boat and landed at Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. After having worked as a sucessful missionar, she retired to a cave in the near mountains. She was buried in a crypt in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume, from where the relics had been transferred to Vezelay. The discovery of the tomb in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume in 1279, a very clever "marketing" plus political patronage finally ended the pilgrim business in Vezelay. Charles II of Anjou, King of Naples founded the Basilique Ste. Marie-Madeleine in 1295. The basilica had the blessing of Pope Boniface VIII, who had taken Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume´s side, and placed the basilica under the new order of Dominicans. The basilica was built over the crypt (where the tomb was found) but the works slowed down and continued until 1532. So from 1270 on pilgrims on their way to Arles, a starting point of the Via Tolosana, stopped here - and left a large number of graffiti all around the crypt. Many more names, notes and dates can be found all over the basilica. Some of them carved in after the Revolution, when the Dominicans had left the place and the members of the "club jacobin" used the basilica. This was, when - in honor of Jean Paul Marat - the name of the town was changed to "Marathon". During the 19th century the church must be unattended and open over long periods.

The "Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine" in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume (pop. ~ 14.000) is not only one of the largest but as most important Gothic churches in of the Provence. A small merovingien church existed here, until a sarcophagus was discovered inside the church´s crypt in 1279. The inscription made clear, that this was the tomb of Mary Magdalene. Her relics had been venerated in Vezeley since the early 11th century. Numerous pilgrims had headed to her relics since then and had made Vezelay Abbey to a major starting point for the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. According to legend a monk named Baudillon or Badilo brought the relics of Maria Magdalene from Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume to Vezelay through fear of the Saracens. In 1058 Pope Stephen IX had confirmed the authenticity of the relics. Until that time it was undisputed that Maria Magdalena was one of the The "Three Marys", who had fled the Holy Land by a miraculous boat and landed at Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. After having worked as a sucessful missionar, she retired to a cave in the near mountains. She was buried in a crypt in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume, from where the relics had been transferred to Vezelay. The discovery of the tomb in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume in 1279, a very clever "marketing" plus political patronage finally ended the pilgrim business in Vezelay. Charles II of Anjou, King of Naples founded the Basilique Ste. Marie-Madeleine in 1295. The basilica had the blessing of Pope Boniface VIII, who had taken Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume´s side, and placed the basilica under the new order of Dominicans. The basilica was built over the crypt (where the tomb was found) but the works slowed down and continued until 1532. So from 1270 on pilgrims on their way to Arles, a starting point of the Via Tolosana, stopped here - and left a large number of graffiti all around the crypt. Many more names, notes and dates can be found all over the basilica. Some of them carved in after the Revolution, when the Dominicans had left the place and the members of the "club jacobin" used the basilica. This was, when - in honor of Jean Paul Marat - the name of the town was changed to "Marathon". During the 19th century the church must be unattended and open over long periods.

The "Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine" in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume (pop. ~ 14.000) is not only one of the largest but as most important Gothic churches in of the Provence. A small merovingien church existed here, until a sarcophagus was discovered inside the church´s crypt in 1279. The inscription made clear, that this was the tomb of Mary Magdalene. Her relics had been venerated in Vezeley since the early 11th century. Numerous pilgrims had headed to her relics since then and had made Vezelay Abbey to a major starting point for the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. According to legend a monk named Baudillon or Badilo brought the relics of Maria Magdalene from Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume to Vezelay through fear of the Saracens. In 1058 Pope Stephen IX had confirmed the authenticity of the relics. Until that time it was undisputed that Maria Magdalena was one of the The "Three Marys", who had fled the Holy Land by a miraculous boat and landed at Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. After having worked as a sucessful missionar, she retired to a cave in the near mountains. She was buried in a crypt in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume, from where the relics had been transferred to Vezelay. The discovery of the tomb in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume in 1279, a very clever "marketing" plus political patronage finally ended the pilgrim business in Vezelay. Charles II of Anjou, King of Naples founded the Basilique Ste. Marie-Madeleine in 1295. The basilica had the blessing of Pope Boniface VIII, who had taken Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume´s side, and placed the basilica under the new order of Dominicans. The basilica was built over the crypt (where the tomb was found) but the works slowed down and continued until 1532. So from 1270 on pilgrims on their way to Arles, a starting point of the Via Tolosana, stopped here - and left a large number of graffiti all around the crypt. Many more names, notes and dates can be found all over the basilica. Some of them carved in after the Revolution, when the Dominicans had left the place and the members of the "club jacobin" used the basilica. This was, when - in honor of Jean Paul Marat - the name of the town was changed to "Marathon". During the 19th century the church must be unattended and open over long periods. I found this strange symbol more than a dozen times inside the cathedral. It is probably an unsuual mason-mark. Or is this a phrygian hat and stands for the "club jacobin"? Or an axe, hare, the blade of a guillotine??

Échebrune is a small village (pop. ~500) neighbouring Biron and Avy. The Saintonge region is so rich in wonderful Romanesque buildings... Saint-Pierre was erected within the 12th century, but the church suffered from severe damage during the Hundred Years War, the Wars of Religion and the vandalism of the French Revolution. The crossing tower and the large Gothic apse are rebuilt, but the western facade, seen here partially, and the nave are Romanesque, dating back to the 12th century. The many graffiti, carved into the walls of the facade and the nave are probably from the time of the great pilgrimage 12th/13th century. Seen here is a "pelerin" on his way to Santiago.

Just like in neighbouring Jarnac-Champagne priory, dependent on the (once important) Benedictian abbey Saint-Sauveur de Charroux existed here since the 12th century. At that time Saint-Martin was erected as the church for the priory. The church got enlarged and vaulted in the 13th and 14th century, but during the Wars of Religion, the structure got severely damaged, so that the ceiling and the crossing dome collapsed. The imposant western facade with the large archivolts survived the attacks. The priory was sold after the French Revolution and all buildings, but the church, got demolished. Today Saint-Martin serves as the parish church of the small village. - As I have uploaded already many photos taken here previously, I will just add a few "new" ones. Most graffiti, carved into the outer walls of Saint-Martin are younger than, what the medieval pilgrims left on the walls nearby churches. The sailing boat (??) may be medieval. The letters may be carved during the time of the French Revolution.

Saint Marcel is the parish church of Bayet, a small village north of Broût-Vernet. The church underwent some major reconstructions, but the three apses still seem to be left in the original state. There are some interesting corbels here. These marks can often be seen near the portals of old churches. Maybe the villagers have sharpened their knives here over the centuries, so the marks got deeper and deeper. The stick-figures, seen under the roof of the apses, may be carved graffitis. This little face on the right is a carved graffiti. For sure.

Split, the largest city of Dalmatia, was (just like neighbouring Trogir) as the Greek colony in the 4th century BC. Roman emperor Diocletian had a palace built as a retirement residence near Salona, the capital of the Roman province of Dalmatia at that time. After the Romans abandoned the site, the Palace remained empty for several centuries, but when Salona was sacked by Avars and Slavs in the 7th century, the walled Palace of Diocletian was settled by refugees from Salona. Since the the palace has been occupied, with residents making their homes and businesses within the palace basement and directly in its walls. Today the remains of the palace form about half the old town and city center of Split. In 1979 the historic center of Split was included into the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. The small, rectangular "Temple of Jupiter" was built within the 3rd century, when Diocletian's Palace was erected. It was later converted into a baptistery, dedicated to St. John the Baptist. A Roman sarcophagus was placed next to the portal. The walls were covered with ancient graffiti.

Split, the largest city of Dalmatia, was (just like neighbouring Trogir) as the Greek colony in the 4th century BC. Roman emperor Diocletian had a palace built as a retirement residence near Salona, the capital of the Roman province of Dalmatia at that time. After the Romans abandoned the site, the Palace remained empty for several centuries, but when Salona was sacked by Avars and Slavs in the 7th century, the walled Palace of Diocletian was settled by refugees from Salona. Since the the palace has been occupied, with residents making their homes and businesses within the palace basement and directly in its walls. Today the remains of the palace form about half the old town and city center of Split. In 1979 the historic center of Split was included into the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. The small, rectangular "Temple of Jupiter" was built within the 3rd century, when Diocletian's Palace was erected. It was later converted into a baptistery, dedicated to St. John the Baptist. A Roman sarcophagus was placed next to the portal. The walls were covered with ancient graffiti. The rain was really heavy meanwhile. Here is the weathered head of a bishop with protruding ears. Lots of heavy rainfalls over the centuries washed off his face.