Bourgogne-Franche-Comté

... Saint Philibert in Tournus, seen from the cloister. One of the churches, we have visited a couple of times. We returned to Tournus not only for Saint Philibert, but as well for a superb restaurant "Aux Terrasses": www.aux-terrasses.com/accueil_FR.html

... had both seen so many visitors, that they seem to look through us. Maybe they were just depressed after all the years...

....on a top floor of the church we finally found this face. Immidately I remembered this guy. I had met him somewhere before. But I had forgotten his name...

Paray-le-Monial - Basilique du Sacré Coeur The "Basilique du Sacré Coeur" in Paray-le-Monial. The monastry existing since 974 became a dependency of nearby Cluny in 999. The first church "Paray I" was consecrated by Odilo of Cluny already in 1004. Though enlarged later to "Paray II" by the still existing westwork and narthex,abbot Hugh of Cluny started the building of now existing church "Paray III" in 1090. As it has lots of similarities to the only little older "Cluny III", it is sometime called "Small Cluny". Here are two bearded mermen from one of the pillars in the interior of the basilique. Look for their friend the mermaid - on the other photo!

The "Basilique du Sacré Coeur" in Paray-le-Monial. The monastry existing since 974 became a dependency of nearby Cluny in 999. The first church "Paray I" was consecrated by Odilo of Cluny already in 1004. Though enlarged later to "Paray II" by the still existing westwork and narthex,abbot Hugh of Cluny started the building of now existing church "Paray III" in 1090. As it has lots of similarities to the only little older "Cluny III", it is sometimes called "Small Cluny". Here is a mermaid from one of the pillars in the interior of the basilique. Look for her friend the merman - on the other photo!

The "Basilique du Sacré Coeur" in Paray-le-Monial. A monastry existing here since 974 became a dependency of nearby Cluny in 999. The first church "Paray I" was consecrated by Odilo of Cluny in 1004. Though enlarged later to "Paray II" by the still existing westwork and narthex, abbot Hugh of Cluny started the building of now existing church "Paray III" in 1090. As it has lots of similarities to the only little older "Cluny III", it is sometimes called "Small Cluny". Paray-Le-Monial played a role in the medieval pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Today pilgims are back. Saint Margaret Mary Alacoque lived here, a nun and mystic, who had visions in 1673. She promoted devotion to the Sacred Heart of Jesus. So Paray-le-Monial now again is a place of pilgrimage in France. Even the patronage of the basilique changed in the 19th century from "Basilique du Notre Dame" to "Basilique du du Sacré Coeur". I have already uploaded a lot of photos of Paray-le-Monial, I took during other visits. About a year ago, I found a beatiful mermaid on one of the many sculpted capitals in Paray-le-Monial. So this year l added a photo of one of her bearded male collegues, holding a fish.

The church of the former Priory Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Benoît is now the parish church of the village. When I visited Perrecy-les-Forges in April 2011 I had the impression, that the church and the museum were locked since years. Charles Martel, grandfather of Charlemagne and leader of the frankish armee in the Battle of Tours (732), gave the Perrecey estate to his brother Childebrand as a gift to thank him for defeating the Sarascens in the valleys of the Rhone and the Saône in 732. Childebrands heirs bequeated it to the abbey of Saint-Benoît-sur-Loire. First monks settled here 880/885. Some parts of the westwork may date back to the 9th century. 1020/1030 a romanesque basilica was constructed here. 1120/1130 the large narthex was added, which is - a unique masterpiece. This capital - for me - is the most interesting in Perrecy-les-Forges. Decades ago during my first year at university I wrote an essay, dealing with the subject "Medieval Elephants". There were only three elephants during medieval times: Abul Abbas, a present from Harun al Raschid to Charlemagne. Abul Abbas reached Aix La Chapelle in 802 died 810 after swimming in the Rhine. The Cremona-elephant was a present from Al Kamil to Frederik II in 1229. The third elephant was brought to Europe by Louis IX (Saint Louis) in 1255. It was given to Henry III and died in London 1258. There was not a single elephant in Europe between 810 and 1229, and this capital was carved 1120/1130. - It may be, that the carver of this "exotic" capital, was a well travelled person, but I doubt it. It is a phantastic carving designed completely out of rumours about a giant animal living far behind the horiziont. The animal would have a large nose or trunk, long teeth - and totally "uncommon" feet. Over the distances, the size of the ears got lost and the feet got fanshaped, but that is all details. Actually these elephants are pretty precise! I have built up a collection of medivale elephants, if you want to see more, just follow the link: www.flickr.com/photos/martin-m-miles/galleries/7215762494.. .

The church of the former Priory Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Benoît is now the parish church of the village. When I visited Perrecy-les-Forges in April 2011 I had the impression, that the church and the museum were locked since years. Charles Martel, grandfather of Charlemagne and leader of the frankish armee in the Battle of Tours (732), gave the Perrecey estate to his brother Childebrand as a gift to thank him for defeating the Sarascens in the valleys of the Rhone and the Saône in 732. Childebrands heirs bequeated it to the abbey of Saint-Benoît-sur-Loire. First monks settled here 880/885. Some parts of the westwork may date back to the 9th century. 1020/1030 a romanesque basilica was constructed here. 1120/1130 the large narthex was added, which is - a unique masterpiece. This capital - for me - is the most interesting in Perrecy-les-Forges. Decades ago during my first year at university I wrote an essay, dealing with the subject "Medieval Elephants". There were only three elephants during medieval times: Abul Abbas, a present from Harun al Raschid to Charlemagne. Abul Abbas reached Aix La Chapelle in 802 died 810 after swimming in the Rhine. The Cremona-elephant was a present from Al Kamil to Frederik II in 1229. The third elephant was brought to Europe by Louis IX (Saint Louis) in 1255. It was given to Henry III and died in London 1258. There was not a single elephant in Europe between 810 and 1229, and this capital was carved 1120/1130. - It may be, that the carver of this "exotic" capital, was a well travelled person, but I doubt it. It is a phantastic carving designed completely out of rumours about a giant animal living far behind the horiziont. The animal would have a large nose or trunk, long teeth - and totally "uncommon" feet. Over the distances, the size of the ears got lost and the feet got fanshaped, but that is all details. Actually these elephants are pretty precise! I have built up a collection of medivale elephants, if you want to see more, just follow the link: www.flickr.com/photos/martin-m-miles/galleries/7215762494...

Hugh of Cluny (aka "Hugh the Great", "Saint Hugh", "Hugh of Semur"), abbot of Cluny, was born in this little village (one of the "Plus beaux villages de France") in May 1024. Hugh had the third abbey church at Cluny (aka Cluny III) built, the largest structure in Europe for centuries. He as well had Paray-le-Monial built, he founded Charité-sur-Loire, he was the godfather of Emperor Henry IV (see "Goslar) and an important mediator in the Investiture Controversy. And Hugh had the former collegiate church Saint-Hilaire, a basilica on a "cluniacensic blueprint" built in his home-village. The construction started of the church 1120/1130. To the right of the lintel, that tells a story out of the life of Saint Hillary, is this capital. A Luxuria with a snake and a toad. I have seen a couple of Luxurias over the time, but this one has, compared to others, a strange face. Either, she wears a cap - and these are hair hanging down, or she has a beard, or a combination out of these two. Or these are all wrinkels, standing as a symbol for an "old" and or "ugly" face. Luxuria is not alone, there is somebody around the corner. Seen on the next shot.

The church of the former Priory Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Benoît is now the parish church of the village. When I visited Perrecy-les-Forges in April 2011 I had the impression, that the church and the museum were locked since years. Charles Martel, grandfather of Charlemagne and leader of the frankish armee in the Battle of Tours (732), gave the Perrecey estate to his brother Childebrand as a gift to thank him for defeating the Sarascens in the valleys of the Rhone and the Saône in 732. Childebrands heirs bequeated it to the abbey of Saint-Benoît-sur-Loire. First monks settled here 880/885. Some parts of the westwork may date back to the 9th century. 1020/1030 a romanesque basilica was constructed here. 1120/1130 the large narthex was added, which is - a unique masterpiece. This capital in the narthex depicts a "Luxuria", sitting/standing in a barrel/bathtube. I have the impression, she is sitting in a bathtube, hands cover her knees. - Compared to the warriors and angels seen here (and all the foliage around), the carving of the Luxuria and the two snakes seems a bit "rough". Even taking in account, that somebody took the effort to destroy her face.

The parish church of Baugy, dedicated to Saint Pons, dates back into the 11th century. The church on a little hill, overlooking the Loire river, is archaic - and still pretty much intact. It hs some nice carvings. Here is a nice monkey, that seems to be "younger" than that one just seen in Charlieu. That would mean, that the corbel was added later to this church.

The former collegiate church St. Lazare in Avallon was consecrated in 1106. Over the centuries, the church changed a lot, got looted and heavily damaged during the Wars of Religion and after the French Revolution. In 1633 it partly collapsed. The carvings though heavily damaged, are very detailed. As relics of Saint Lazarus were shown here in medieval times, lots of pilgrims stopped here on their way to Vezelay. St. Lazarus was one of the very popular saints in that time. The Cathédrale Saint-Lazare in Autun, only about 80kms south, had relics of St. Lazarus as well. A details from the side: a climbing little monkey head over heels under a corbel. He has a close relative nearby seen on the next photo..

There had been a cathedral here earlier, that was just too small, when Autun became a center of pilgrimage, after relics of St. Lazarus were kept here since about 970. Just like Vezelay, only 90kms north, where the relics of St. Lazarus´ sister St. Maria Magdalena were kept at that time. So in 1120 it was decided to construct this larger and more suitable cathedral. At that time this construction was influenced by Cluny III, that was a little older. After severe damage during the Hundred Years' War, rebuilding and remodeling the romanesque structure started.The central nave never changed - and the many carved capitals. Some of this works were taken down, during the renovation by Viollet-le-Duc and are now shown in the "Salle Capitulaire", where it is interesting to see the carvings at eye level. This masterly carved capital depicts Samson wrestling a lion. Here he is just opening the lion´s mouth, before he is going to rip the lion apart. Book of Judges 14:6 "And the Spirit of the LORD came mightily upon him, and he rent him as he would have rent a kid, and he had nothing in his hand: but he told not his father or his mother what he had done." Surprisingly Samson seems to be an elderly, well dressed man. Note the carving of Samsons dress and the nice mane of the lion. Not connected to the Book of Judges, but an interesting and exotic extension is in the left upper corner. A monkey is picking fruits from the branches.

Saint Martin´s preceding church belonged to the diocese of Clermont, but the Sires de Bourbon (-Archambaud) transferred it within the 11th century to the Bishop of Nevers. A century later it was owned by the Cluniac priory of Souvigny. At that time the old church got demolished and the erection of Saint Martin started. It took about two centuries, to complete it. The massive, octagonal tower with the eleganz spire - over the crossing - was built within the 14th century and is 36 meters in height.

Saint Martin´s preceding church belonged to the diocese of Clermont, but the Sires de Bourbon (-Archambaud) transferred it within the 11th century to the Bishop of Nevers. A century later it was owned by the Cluniac priory of Souvigny. At that time the old church got demolished and the erection of Saint Martin started. Light floods in through the open side portal. Saint Martin is pretty large (35 meters long). It is visible, that the eastern parts of the structure (apse, crossing) are older than the nave and the aisles.

Saint Martin´s preceding church belonged to the diocese of Clermont, but the Sires de Bourbon (-Archambaud) transferred it within the 11th century to the Bishop of Nevers. A century later it was owned by the Cluniac priory of Souvigny. At that time the old church got demolished and the erection of Saint Martin started. A strange capital inside Saint Martin. All three heads have protruding tongues. "Enormous tongues" are a very specific icon all around Châteaumeillant (dept. Cher), just about 60kms west. Does the left person wear a mitra? Are they vomiting?

Founded in a loop of the Doubs River, the town played an important role during the Roman Empire period under the name of Vesontio. Since 1032 Besançon and the entire County of Burgundy became part of the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation. Archbishop Hugo von Salins, with imperial support, became ruler of the city, which he led into a period of prosperity. After his death in 1066, however, it falls into a long crisis caused by succession struggles. In the 12th and 13th centuries, the population defied the power of the archbishops and finally gained their municipal independence in 1290. Besançon retained the status of a free city for almost 400 years. The Free Counts of Burgundy, who had gained dominion over Franche-Comté, became the protector of the Free City, which prospered during this period. Louis XI confirmed the town charter in early 1481 and ordered the university to be transferred from Dole to Besançon. With the beginning of the Renaissance, Franche-Comté fell back to the German Empire. Emperor Charles V fortified Besançon and made the city a bulwark for his empire. Streetfood

Founded in a loop of the Doubs River, the town played an important role during the Roman Empire period under the name of Vesontio. Since 1032 Besançon and the entire County of Burgundy became part of the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation. Archbishop Hugo von Salins, with imperial support, became ruler of the city, which he led into a period of prosperity. After his death in 1066, however, it falls into a long crisis caused by succession struggles. In the 12th and 13th centuries, the population defied the power of the archbishops and finally gained their municipal independence in 1290. Besançon retained the status of a free city for almost 400 years. The Free Counts of Burgundy, who had gained dominion over Franche-Comté, became the protector of the Free City, which prospered during this period. Louis XI confirmed the town charter in early 1481 and ordered the university to be transferred from Dole to Besançon. With the beginning of the Renaissance, Franche-Comté fell back to the German Empire. Emperor Charles V fortified Besançon and made the city a bulwark for his empire. Communication became very important with industrialization. Post offices were often "temples" of the new technology.