Bourgogne-Franche-Comté

....quickened the pace...

...after about four weeks, I finally could see the the basilica Sainte-Marie-Madeleine of Vezelay on the next hill. A view that probably not changed much since more than 800 years....

..had waited on the main road, but I took a steep shortcut and so reached the basilica first....

.. is a corner, where I had to decide to turn left (via Nevers) or right (via Bourges). I choose right and...

...frost the night before. Leaving Vezelay in the early morning..

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine in Vezelay is a breathtaking jewel of romanesque architecture. This is probably the church I have visited most often all over France. As a young student at the university back in the early 70s I had done some research about the "Cluny Network". Vezelay played a role in that and I had been here a first time. The relics of Sainte Marie-Magdalene had been venerated here and this was a major center of pilgrimage upto the day, when in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Marie Madeleine. When the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela had developed into a pan-european phenomenon, Vezelay was a gathering point, as here the Via Lemovicensis started. Bernard of Clairvaux had preached the Second Crusade to a large crowd at Vezelay in 1146. In 1189, the Frankish and English factions of the Third Crusade met here before departing for the Holy Land. The English armee was led by Richard I of England (aka "Richard the Lionheart", "Cœur de Lion"), the Frankish by Philip II of France (aka "Phillipe Auguste") One of the many things, I could not understand as a young student was, how people covered these enormous distances. Many years later, after I had visited Vezelay a couple of times by car, I decided in 2005 to walk to Vezelay. I started (absolutely unexperienced!), in Trier (Treves) - and gave up in Vaucouleurs after about a week. I restarted with some more experince (and less luggage) some weeks later in Vaucouleurs and finally reached Vezelay August 2nd. 2005. Some days after that, I found the office of the "Association des 'Amis et Pèlerins de Saint-Jacques de la Voie de Vézelay", and there another a long story started, that still keeps me walking... www.vezelay-compostelle.eu

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is a jewel of Romanesque architecture. The nave, seen here, was erected within 20 years, from 1120 on, after the preceding church burnt down, with a loss of more than 1000 lifes. The choir and the transept (erected 1185 - 1215) are already gothic. The relics of Sainte Marie Madeleine, that had been here since around 1050, made Vezelay to a center of pilgrimage (and the starting point of the Via Lemovicensis). But in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Sainte Marie Madeleine. Unfortunately the Dominicans found the patronage by Pope Boniface VIII and Charles d'Anjou - and so Vezelay lost it´s importance. In 1559, during the Wars of Religion, Huguenots looted Vezelay und burnt the relics, that were still in Vezelay. Today there is a golden reliquary in the large, probably carolingian crypt, so obviously at least a part of the relics are still here. Prosper Mérimée and Viollet-le-Duc saved the basilica, that was a ruin in the early 19th century. When Prosper Mérimée started the renovation of the basilica in 1840, he was 26 years old. This was the first task for the young architect.. The basicila has a length of about 100m, even more than 120, when the narthex is added. Hugues Delautre could proof in 1976, that the architects of the 12th century "implanted" a very special feature into the building. Each year at noon of the summer solstice when the sun is in the climax, the light from the south windows casts light spots in the middle of the central nave. Here are more informations and photos about this vezelay.cef.fr/lumiere.htm

Standing on the hill behind the Basilica looking southeast. The little village Saint-Père, known for the church with that high white steeple. The moon is out already. A warm summer evening. Acclaimed Marc Meneau runs a famous hotel and gourmet restaurant (*** Michelin) in Saint-Père since many years. Serge Gainsbourg liked the place and stayed in that hotel 1990 for weeks. I saw polaroids in the nearby bar-tabac, showing Serge smoking cigarettes and drinking pastis in that bar with the locals. Serge died in March 1991 of a heart attack.

I had found this place, in the back of the Basilica, already some years ago. There is even a bench. The village seen here is Saint-Père, known for the church with that high white steeple. "Sittin' on the dock of the bay, watchin' the tide roll away" like Otis Redding on a summer evening. "Looks like nothing's gonna change everything still remains the same" Acclaimed Marc Meneau runs a gourmet restaurant (*** Michelin) in Saint-Père. Serge Gainsbourg liked the place and stayed in Meneau´s hotel 1990 for weeks. I saw polaroids in the nearby bar-tabac, showing Serge smoking cigarettes and drinking pastis with the locals. Serge died in March 1991 of a heart attack.

Seen on the right is the bell tower of Notre-Dame. The 50m high tower is considered a masterpiece of the flamboyant Gothic style. In 858 the Count of Vienne and his wife Berthe founded a monastery here, but already in 873, it was looted and completely devastated by the Normans. The monks (and nuns) rebuilt the convent on the hill above Saint-Père on a place, that later developed into a main pilgrim place of the medieval times: Vezelay. The tower can be seen on the hill. The Via Lemovicensis (aka "Voie de Vézelay") began up there. I had started my hike in Trier (Trèves) in 2005 it took me about 5 weeks to reach Vezelay. From here the "chemin" was much easier to find. I have uploaded already many photos taken in and around Vezelay, so I will add only two this time.

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine in Vezelay is a breathtaking jewel of romanesque architecture. This is probably the church I have visited most often all over France. As a young student at the university back in the early 70s I had done some research about the "Cluny Network". Vezelay played a role in that and I had been here a first time. The relics of Sainte Marie-Magdalene had been venerated here and this was a major centre of pilgrimage up to the day when in 1279 Dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Marie Madeleine. When the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela had developed into a pan-European phenomenon, Vezelay was a gathering point, as here the "Via Lemovicensis" started. Bernard of Clairvaux had preached the Second Crusade to a large crowd at Vezelay in 1146. In 1189, the Frankish and English factions of the Third Crusade met here before departing for the Holy Land. The English army was led by Richard I of England (aka "Richard the Lionheart", "Cœur de Lion"), the Frankish by Philip II of France (aka "Phillipe Auguste") One of the many things, I could not understand as a young student was, how people covered these enormous distances. Many years later, after I had visited Vezelay a couple of times by car, I decided in 2005 to walk to Vezelay. I started (absolutely inexperienced!), in Trier (Treves) - and gave up in Vaucouleurs after about a week. I restarted with some more experience (and less luggage) some weeks later in Vaucouleurs and finally reached Vezelay August 2nd. 2005. There I found the office of the "Association des 'Amis et Pèlerins de Saint-Jacques de la Voie de Vézelay", and there another a long story started, that kept me walking... In 2019 the facade and the narthex were under renovation. I have uploaded already many photos taken in and around Vezelay, so I will add only two this time.

...crossing the Loire in La Charité-sur-Loire via the old bridge...

This was the main portal of the church, that belonged to a Cluniac priory. It was erected between 1059-1107 and was consecrated, when Pope Paschal II visited the priory. The church is important, as it was built parallel to Cluny III - and so has many similarities. It once was 122 meters long and had a nave and four aisles. There were five portals (like in younger Bourges) and two western towers. One of these towers collapsed already in 1204. Mid of the 16th century the nave got severely damaged by fire The priory existed upto the French Revolution. Some parts of the ruined church got converted to residential houses, the structure since then serves as a parish church. In 1840 there were plans, to demolish the building, but Prosper Mérimée stepped in - and so saved it. The portal to the very left still has a tympanum. I had been here first time in April 2006, when I followed the Via Lemovicensis.

Notre Dame was a Cluniac priory, with a huge church, which was erected between 1059-1107. It was consecrated, when Pope Paschal II visited the priory. The church is important for historians, as it was built parallel to Cluny III - and so has many similarities It once was 122 meters long and had a nave and four aisles. There were five portals (like in younger Bourges) and two western towers. One of these towers crashed down already in 1204. Mid of the 16th century the nave got severely damaged by fire and partly collapsed. The priory existed upto the French Revolution. Some parts of the ruined church got converted to residential houses, the structure since then serves as a parish church. In 1840 there were plans, to demolish the building, but Prosper Mérimée stepped in - and so saved it. This portal is inside of Notre Dame. Just as seen at the outside portal, the carving style is very dynamic. Christ in the mandorla holds a bible. I could not read the words in the banners, the two bearded saints (apostles?) hold. Below (left) the Magi adorating Virgin and Child. Mary is seated on a kind of throne, Joseph waiting behind. To the right is the "Presentation of Jesus at the Temple".

Notre-Dame, erected 1230 - 1251, is considered a jewel of 13th-century Gothic architecture in France. The planar western façade is quite unique - as it opens like a large screen to the spectator. Seen over that "screen" is a jacquemart. It was brought to Dijon from Kortrijk (Belgium), after the looting of Kortrijk by the armies of Philip the Bold (Duke Philippe II of Burgundy) in 1382.

Dijon, today a city with a population of about 150.000, was a Roman settlement named Divio, located on the road from Lyon to Paris. Saint Benignus, the city's patron saint, is said to have introduced Christianity to the area before being martyred. The province was home to the Dukes of Burgundy from the early 11th until the late 15th centuries, and Dijon was a place of wealth and power. In 1513, Swiss and Imperial armies invaded Burgundy and besieged Dijon. The siege was extremely violent, but after long negotiations, Louis II de la Trémoille managed to persuade the armies to withdraw. During the siege, the population called on the Virgin Mary for help and saw the withdrawal of the invaders as a miracle. For those reasons, in the years following the siege the inhabitants began to venerate Notre-Dame de Bon-Espoir (Our Lady of Good Hope).

Dijon, today a city with a population of about 150.000, was a Roman settlement named Divio, located on the road from Lyon to Paris. Saint Benignus, the city's patron saint, is said to have introduced Christianity to the area before being martyred. The province was home to the Dukes of Burgundy from the early 11th until the late 15th centuries, and Dijon was a place of wealth and power. In 1513, Swiss and Imperial armies invaded Burgundy and besieged Dijon. The siege was extremely violent, but after long negotiations, Louis II de la Trémoille managed to persuade the armies to withdraw. During the siege, the population called on the Virgin Mary for help and saw the withdrawal of the invaders as a miracle. For those reasons, in the years following the siege the inhabitants began to venerate Notre-Dame de Bon-Espoir (Our Lady of Good Hope). Before the second half of the 12th century, the site of today's Notre-Dame was occupied by a simple chapel, which was outside the city walls. Beginning around 1220 the erection of the Gothic church of today started. The wooden statue called Notre-Dame de Bon-Espoir is dated 11th/12th century. The Virgin originally was seated on a throne, holding the baby Jesus. Later the throne was removed and the back of the statue was sawn off and replaced by a piece of wood. The baby Jesus disappeared during the French Revolution, in 1794. By the 18th century, the Virgin's hands had been lost.

Dijon, today a city with a population of about 150.000, was a Roman settlement named Divio, located on the road from Lyon to Paris. Saint Benignus, the city's patron saint, is said to have introduced Christianity to the area before being martyred. The province was home to the Dukes of Burgundy from the early 11th until the late 15th centuries, and Dijon was a place of wealth and power. In 1513, Swiss and Imperial armies invaded Burgundy and besieged Dijon. The siege was extremely violent, but after long negotiations, Louis II de la Trémoille managed to persuade the armies to withdraw. During the siege, the population called on the Virgin Mary for help and saw the withdrawal of the invaders as a miracle. For those reasons, in the years following the siege the inhabitants began to venerate Notre-Dame de Bon-Espoir (Our Lady of Good Hope). Before the second half of the 12th century, the site of today's Notre-Dame was occupied by a simple chapel, which was outside the city walls. Beginning around 1220 the erection of the Gothic church of today started. Only five of the original stained-glass windows from around 1240/50 survived the times. End of the 19th century the artist Édouard Didron made 58 new windows, inspired by the originals. The biggest are the rose windows, each 6 metres in diameter.