The Magi

Venice (ital. Venezia) is one of the most important tourist destinations worldwide with about 30 million visitors each year. As each tourist takes at least 100 photos (minimum!) in Venice 3000000000 photos are taken here per year, what means more than 8 millions per day. I have already uploaded dozends of shots from previous visits, so ll try to cut down the number of uploads this time. - The main altar of the Basilica di San Marco is located under a ciborium. Here is a detail of one of the pillars, supporting the canopy. I have no idea, how old these complex pillars are or where they came from, nor could I read/translate the inscriptions. They may originate from Byzanz like many works of art here (eg. the "Four Tetrarchs"). Seen here is the "Adoration of the Magi". Note the name HERODES below

A cathedral may have existed here already within the 5th century. The Kathedrale St. Mariae Himmelfahrt (= "Saint Mary of the Assumption") of today was erected 1150 - 1272, from east to west. The crypt, under the risen choir, is probably the oldest part of the cathedral. The architectural concept is very similar to that of neighbouring St. Luzius, built the same time. The epiphanie is part of a larger fresco painted by the "Waltensburger Meister" 1330/1340, who as well created the frescoes in the small church in Casti I had seen some days ago. I have the impression, that the artist who created the Gothic Magi-frescoe in Alvaschein, knew this work.

The nave and the portal are all of the once Romanesque church that survived the times. The original church was erected within the 12th century, so the carvings seen here more than 800 years old. A detail of the left capital. The three Magi have reached Bethlehem, where Mary wears a crown - and the Star of Bethlehem shines over the crib.

Lavaur was a bastion of the Cathars in the 12th century. In 1211, after a siege, it was taken by Catholic troops, lead by Simon de Montfort. Dame Guiraude de Laurac, lady of Lavaur at the time, was thrown down a well and stoned to death. About 400 Cathars perished in the flames of one of the largest stakes of the Crusade. The Albigensian Crusade had so many cruelties. A priory was founded by monks from the Benedictine abbey of Saint-Pons-de-Thomieres was founded here in 1098. At that time a ruined church, dedicated to Saint-Alain, a legendary local monk, existed already. The Benedictines rebuilt that church, that got destroyed in 1211 during the siege of the Montfort´s Catholic armee. The present church was rebuilt from the monks in the second half of the 13th century. When in 1317 Pope John XXII founded the diocese of Lavaur this church became a cathedral. At that time a couple of small dioceses were founded (eg. Mirepoix, Saint-Papoul, Alet, Rieux..) to increase the presence of Catholic "control" in the former Cathar area. It is claimed locally, that the Cathédrale Saint-Alain is one of the oldest gothique méridional churches. Younger than the Church of the Jacobins and the Cathédrale Saint Etienne in Toulouse and Notre-Dame-du-Bourg in Rabastens, but older than Sainte-Cecile in Albi. The gothique méridional style was really modern, when the cathedral was built, but as seen here the Romanesque style was as well still "alive". The portal is a perfect mixture. Here are two capitals of the portal´s left side. The "Flight into Egypt" and the "Adoration of the Magi". This is not the chronological order known from the bible.

Since 365, when Saint Marcellin became the first bishop here, a cathedral existed in Embrun. Saint Gregory of Tours wrote about a "basilica mirabilis" built over the tombs of Saints Nazarius and Celsus. After the Lombards had sacked Embrun end of the 6th century, Charlemagne funded the erection of a new cathedral. In the 10th century the Sarazens raided the area - and again looted the town (and killed the bishop). The cathedral of today was built on foundations of Charlemagne´s basilica between 1170 and 1220. The northern, Romanesque portal / narthex named "Port Real" (or "Portal des Rois Mages") got its name, as in the 14th century the tympanum got covered by a frescoe depicting the Magi. The frescoe was destroyed when the church got severely damaged during the French Wars of Religion, so by now the Romanesque tympanum is seen again. Only the inscription still refers to the Magi. The two elegant columns are supported on crouching lions.

The collegiate church, dedicated to Saint Ursus of Aosta, existed here already in Carolingian times. Ursus, who may have been Irish, was a missionary, who supported the Bishop of Aosta. When an Arian became bishop of Aosta, Ursus and other canons left the cathedral and settled outside the walls of Aosta at the present site of the collegiate church of Saint Ursus. A Romanesque church was built around 1000, but this church got rebuilt, altered and enlarged many times over the centuries. The beautiful cloister, next to the basilica, was erected mid 12th century. It got restored end of teh 15th century, but 37 of the 42 original capitals are still "in situ". The now darkgrey capitals were white, when they were carved. Here are two neighbouring capitals. Here are the Magi, holding the presents. Seen in the caital in background is Joseph, leading the ass on the Flight into Egypt". Depicted on another side of that second capital is Mary, holding Jesus, - and the ass.

Parma, part of the Holy Roman Empire since Charlemagne´s times, was locally ruled by its bishops. During the long Investiture Controversy, Parma was (mostly) member of the Imperial party ("Ghibellini"). Two of Parma´s bishops even became antipopes: Càdalo as Honorius II and Guibert as Clement III. An almost independent commune was created around 1140. After the Peace of Constance confirmed the Italian communes' rights of self-governance in 1183, quarrels with the neighbouring communes (eg Piacenza and Cremona) developed over the trading lines along the Po river. When in 1248 Papist families ("Guelphs") gained control over the city, Emperor Frederick II (aka "Stupor Mundi") besieged Parma with no success. This were the circumstances, when in 1196 the City Council of Parma commissioned the building of the Battistero di San Giovanni to Benedetto Antelami. In 1216 the second tier was completed. The work stopped under a temporary roof. It continued in 1249 and the octagon, located next to the cathedral, was finally completed in 1270. The Baptistery has three (!) portals. Here is the tympanum of one of them. Seated under the semicircular Tree of Jesse is Virgin Mary, young Jesus on her knees. To the left the Magi approach (names written above them) adoring, to the right Joseph gets a message from an angel. On the lintel below Jesus is getting baptised by John the Baptist. John later gets beheaded during an evening meal of the Herodes family.

In 1927, what is pretty recent, the city "Borgo San Donnino" changed it´s name to "Fidenza", as in Roman times it was known as "Fidentia Julia". The city was named and the Duomo inside the walls was dedicated to San Donnino di Fidenza (aka "Domninus of Fidenza"), who was martyred nearby in 291. Sigeric the Serious, Archbishop of Canterbury, made the pilgrimage to Rome following the Via Francigena around 990. His contemporary records of this journey still exist (and are source for the modern guide books). He reached "Sce Domnine" after 36 days, what is pretty fast for more than 1000kms. The erection of the Cattedrale di San Donnino started in the 11th century, the first consecration took place in 1106, though the building process continued. From around 1200 on Master Benedetto Antelami and his workshop worked here, not only as Master masons. Antelami may as well be the architect of the facade. Frederick Barbarossa had entrusted "Borgo San Donnino" to the Pallavicino family of Piacenza. In 1268 - after a siege - the city was conquered by the troops of Parma, who looted and burnt down it completely. All houses got destroyed at that time just the Duomo was saved, but it was not completed at that time. The building process came to a stop - and was never continued. The Three Magi are strongly connected to pilgrimage since the early times. They can be found all alongthe old roads. Here they are speeding to Bethlehem at a full gallop. Their names are carved into the wall above them.

Sant'Andrea, believed to have been Pistoia´s ancient cathedral, is thought to date back to the period of Lombard domination. The present day church dates to the mid 12th century. Inside Sant'Andrea is this masterpiece of Giovanni Pisani, who created this great marble pulpit created 1298 - 1301. It is sometimes compared to the pulpits sculpted by Giovanni's father Nicola in the Baptistery of Pisa and the Duomo of Siena, which Giovanni had assisted with. The Pisanis´ works are often described as "proto-Renaissance". There is an inscription here, telling that the work was commissioned by Arnoldus and supervised by Andrea Vitelli and Tino di Vitale. It continues ".. Giovanni carved it (...), the son of Nicola, and blessed with higher skill.." The pulpit has a hexagonal plan with seven columns (one in the middle) and five parapets (see previous upload). Depicted on one of the parapets is a very crowded, dramatic scene: The "Massacre of the Innocents". Matthew 2:16 "When Herod realized that he had been outwitted by the Magi, he was furious, and he gave orders to kill all the boys in Bethlehem and its vicinity who were two years old and under, in accordance with the time he had learned from the Magi."

The construction of the cathedral was ordered by King Ferdinand III of Castile and Mauricio, the Bishop of Burgos. Ferdinand had just married Barbarossa´s granddaughter Beatrice of Swabia (aka "Elisabeth of Swabia") and wanted a cathedral, reflecting his new role in the European power game. The former Romanesque cathedral got demolished and on July 20, 1221, the construction of the new Gothic started under the guidance of an unknown French architect. After nine years, the chevet was completed and the high altar was consecrated. Then the construction stopped for about 200 years. Attending the Council of Basel (aka "Council of Florence") in 1435 bishop (and diplomat) Alfonso de Cartagena saw the just completed, elegant towers of the Basel Minster. When he returned to Burgos he was accompanied by German architect Johannes von Köln (aka "Juan de Colonia"), who probably knew the blueprints of the towers, planned for the Cathedral of Cologne. Under his guidance the towers of the Cathedral were completed in open tracery. He was followed on the construction site by his son Simon de Colonia. Francisco de Colonia, Simon´s son, continued the work and created the Pellejería-Portal. This was a family business. Finally I focussed on details - and I had the impressions, that there are hundreds of thousands. The choir stalls are not medieval, but probably Baroque. Here is the Nativity to the left, and the Magi adoring Christ to the right. Note, that Joseph's beard has grown amazingly in the fortnight between Christmas and Epiphany. Both scenes are eye witnessed by ox and ass.

The magi riding on horsebacks, approaching Bethlehem. The two first show the direction with their hand. The annunciation to the shepherds. Another angle guards the swaddled Jesus in the crib. Ox and ass watch him as well.

Split, the largest city of Dalmatia, was (just like neighbouring Trogir) as the Greek colony in the 4th century BC. Roman emperor Diocletian had a palace built as a retirement residence near Salona, the capital of the Roman province of Dalmatia at that time. After the Romans abandoned the site, the Palace remained empty for several centuries, but when Salona was sacked by Avars and Slavs in the 7th century, the walled Palace of Diocletian was settled by refugees from Salona. Since the the palace has been occupied, with residents making their homes and businesses within the palace basement and directly in its walls. Today the remains of the palace form about half the old town and city center of Split. In 1979 the historic center of Split was included into the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. The Cathedral of Saint Domnius ("Katedrala Svetog Duje") is in the center of ancient Diocletian's Palace. The octogonal building was erected in the early 4th century as Emperor Diocletian's mausoleum. Today this church is the seat of the archbishop of the archdiocese of Split-Makarska - and one of the oldest cathedrals worldwide. The two wings of the portal´s wooden door, more than 5 m high, are the most interesting works. They were carved by Andrea Buvina ("Andrija Buvina") around 1214. Here are 28 scenes from the life of Jesus, starting with the Annunciation and ending with the Ascension. Most such medieval sculpted doors, that survived the times are made from bronze (eg Pisa, Venice, Rome, Verona, Hildesheim). This is one of the very few wooden doors, I remember another wooden door in Cologne ("St. Maria im Kapitol"). The Magi on the way to Bethlehem, following the star. Sorry for the bad quality of these photos, but it was difficult to take photos here - and I could never get proper distance and light.

Romeno is a small village in the Val di Non. The small church, outside the village, is surrounded by orchards. It may date back to the 8th century, though it was mentioned first time in 1187. Soon after the interior walls of Santi Bartolomeo e Tommaso were adorned with murals. Some of the frescoes (dated to 1210) still exist. Here are the Magi approaching Bethlehem (Mary´s blanket is seen above them). On the right is a crippled beggar (and St. Martin?). The cripple uses a small stool-like crutch, that can often be seen in medieval times. This church is open for visitors even in March! Grazie!!

Trogir was founded by Greek colonists in the 3rd century BC. In Roman times this was an important harbour town. From the 9th century on Trogir was under Croatian rule and later part of the Byzantine empire. A diocese was established in the 11th century, in 1107 the Hungarian-Croatian King Coloman ("The Bookish", "Kálmán Könyves") granted the autonomy. Saracen troops conquered Trogir in 1123 and demolished most of it. From 1420 upto 1797 Trogir belonged to the Republic of Venice. For a short while it belonged to the Napoleonic kingdom of Italy, but upto 1918 Trogir was part of the Habsburg Empire. Trogir is more than 2000 years old. It grew under the influence of the ancient Greeks, the Romans, and the Venetians... Trogir's medieval core, surrounded by walls, comprises (about 10) churches, houses and palaces from the Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque periods. Since 1997 the centre of Trogir is a "UNESCO World Heritage Site". The Cathedral of St. Lawrence was erected from 1213 on the foundations of cathedral destroyed by the Saracens in 1123. Most of the work was done in the 13th century. This cathedral is world wide known for Master Radovan´s portal seen here. The portal was carved by the local architect and sculptor Master Radovan (and his workshop). It was completed and signed by Radovan in 1240. The tympamum over the main doors. The grand drape has risen - and seen "on stage" is the Nativity. Mary in childbed, Jesus behind her, watched by ox and ass. Below them, the midwives prepare the "First Bath", watched by Joseph. To the left are the shepherd (herding goats) - and to the right, the Magi approaching Bethlehem on horsebacks. There are many inscriptions. The main line is on the bottom, as it gives the title "post partum" (childbed), the author "Raduanum" and the date, as work was completed, when "Treguan from Florence was bishop of Trogir" "Fundatur valve post partum virginis alme per Raduanum cunctis hac arte preclarum ut patet ex ipsis sculpturis et ex anagliphis anno milleno duceno bisque viceno presule Tuscano Floris ex urbe Treguano".

Lucca existed already in Etruscan times and became a Roman colony in 180 BC. The Diocese of Lucca dates back to the first century, legends tell, that St. Paulinus, a disciple of St. Peter, was the first Bishop of Lucca. In medieval times Lucca was the residence of the Margraves of Tuscany. After the death of Matilda of Tuscany (1115), Lucca constituted itself as an independent republic. Actually the "Republic of Lucca" existed from 1160 to 1805. The Cathedral of Saint Martin is the seat of the Archbishop of Lucca. The construction of the cathedral started in 1063, when Anselm (later Pope Alexander II) was bishop here. The western facade was begun in 1204 by Guido Bigarelli, who later sculpted (and signed!) the the octogonal baptismal font in the center of the Pisan Baptistery. He is one of the many gifted artists, that came from the area around the Lake Como and are known as "Comacine masters". The main theme of the reliefs of cathedral´s western wall, inside the portico, is the life of Saint Martin (previous uploads), but there is of course more. Here a Nativity scene with the Adoration of the Magi. It reminds on the works in Pisa (Baptistry, Duomo), but does not have the elegance. Here again Mary is depicted like a Etruscan lady.

The construction of the "Duomo" began in 1064 by the architect Busketo, who set the model for the distinctive Pisan Romanesque style of architecture. When the construction of this cathedral started, Pisa was on a height of political (and financial) power. Pisa was an important commercial centre controlling large parts of the Mediterranean merchant fleet and navy. In 1017 Pisa had militarily supported the Sardinian "Giudicati" (regional kings) to defeat Saracen troops in the north of Sardinia. Between 1030 and 1035, Pisa defeated rival towns in Sicily. In 1051–1052 Jacopo Ciurini conquered Corsica. In 1063 Giovanni Orlando took Palermo from the Saracen. The gold treasure taken from the Saracens in Palermo allowed the Pisans to start the building of the cathedral. The bronze doors of the cathedral´s Porta San Ranieri survived the fire, that severely damaged the cathedral in 1595. The doors (see previous uploads) were sculpted by Bonanus of Pisa around 1180. Here is a detail: The Magi approaching Bethlehem. Below them scenes from the Garden of Eden.

The construction of the "Battistero di San Giovanni" started in 1152 to replace an older baptistry. Since its completion in 1363 the transition from (Pisan) Romanesque to (Pisan) Gothic style was visible. The baptistry was designed by Diotisalvi, who signed and dated the building ("1153"), similar to the "Chiesa del Santo Sepolcro" (previous uploads), he had designed some decades before. The baptistry is about 54 m high, with a circumference of 107 m. The pulpit of the baptistry is a masterpiece created in 1255-60 by Nicola Pisano, father of Giovanni Pisano. The pulpit's reliefs depict scenes from the life of Christ. Pisono´s works are strongly influenced by classical art and many see Pisano as a precursor of Italian Renaissance sculpture. Here is the "Adoration of the Magi".

On the ruins of a older basilica begann, just next to the Baptistère Saint-Jean the construction of large Cathédrale Saint-Pierre in 1162. The building, the new the seat of the Archbishop of Poitiers, was greatly funded by Henry II of England (aka "Henri II Plantagenêt") and Eleanor of Aquitaine. The construction started as usual in the east and was completed with the western facade end of the 13th century. The cathedral is best known for the wonderful stained glass windows. The three windows around the choir date back to the 12th century and may be the oldest in France. The windows of the eastern part of the nave may be some decades younger. so they will be created in the early 13th century. I will upload some details of them. I am not sure about this. In case on the left is Mary in childbed, then below her is Jesus having his "First Bath". Supported by a midwife. In case to the right is a camel/dromedary, then the three men may be the Magi. But where is the Star of Bethlehem?