Conques

Conques is one of the magical places, I cannot pass. Every time I am in the area, I just have to take the detour, stop and see it again.

Over centuries Conques was a popular stop for all pilgrims travelling the Via Podiensis and it still is. It is a treat after having crossed the harsh Aubrac. I still remember my feelings, when I reached Conques in 2008 on my hike, that had started weeks before in Geneva.

A tiny convent existed here already in the 8th century. This grew into a very successful monastery, after the relics of St. Foy arrived in Conques through theft in 866. The relics were stolen by a monk from Conques, who had posed as a loyal monk in Agen for years.

The arrival of the relics of St. Foy caused the pilgrimage route to shift to Conques. As the existing church was too small for all the pilgrims, a new, much larger church had to be constructed. It was completed by the end of the 11th century. As a large pilgrim´s church, it had an ambulatory with five radiating chapels. A century later galleries were added over the aisle and the roof was raised over the transept and choir.

The "Prieuré des Prémontrés de Conques", located next to the church, offers accommodations to weary pelerins, a traditions followed here that is centuries old. After having had dinner all together, the pilgrims will have a prayer in the church, followed (mostly) by an organ concert during which they may circulate on the galleries. Later they will all gather in front of the church and listen to an introduction to the complex tympanum, given by one of the monks.

In case a pelerin arrives with an ass, he can "park" the animal next to the apse.