Tarn (81) and Aveyron (12)

Puycelsi, one of "Les Plus Beaux Villages de France" ("the most beautiful villages of France"), towers on a steep hill over the valley. Founded by Benedictine monks in the 10th century, the fortified village was besieged during the Albigensian Crusade by troops led by Simon IV de Montfort. Puycelsi was again attacked in 1230 by the disorientated youth of the first Shepherds Crusade.

Cordes (since 1993 "Cordes-sur-Ciel") was founded in 1222 as a bastide by Raimon VII, the Count of Toulouse. In 1436, during the Hundred Years' War, infamous Rodrigo de Villandrando (aka "L'Écorcheur" = "the slaughterer") pillaged Cordes. As the houses got rebuilt within the strong 13th-century ramparts, the town later escaped heavy damage during the religious wars at the end of the 16th century. Today Cordes-sur-Ciel attracts many tourists.

The whole of France is celebrating "La Fête Nationale " on July 14th. The "Bastille day" commemorates the storming of the Bastille in Paris on 14 July 1789. Here are the fireworks over the "Palais de la Berbie", formerly the Bishops' Palace.

Sainte-Cécile has a kind of hostile architecture.

The Cathedral Sainte-Cécile

Albi was a wealthy and prospering time already in the 11th century, when a bridge, that still exists, was built, to cross the river Tarn. Albis´s fate changed dramatically, when in 1208 Pope Innocent III and Philip II of France decided to start the Albigensian Crusade to eliminate Catharism in the south of France. Albi was an important center of the Cathars and got nearly completely destroyed between 1209 and 1229. Many Cathars were burnt at the stake in Albi. After Albigensian Crusade Bishop Bernard de Castanet, who as well was the Chief Inquisitor, ordered the building of the cathedral of Sainte-Cécile in 1282. This cathedral, built from red bricks, is a massive statement of power. It is one of the largest brick buildings in the world. I had been in Albi a couple of times, but for the first time I stayed at the Ibis Styles hotel. I had choosen the highrising building, as I knew I would be able to see the cathedral from my room in the morning, in the afternoon and even late at night.

Albi was a wealthy and prospering time already in the 11th century, when a bridge, that still exists, was built, to cross the river Tarn. Albis´s fate changed dramatically, when in 1208 Pope Innocent III and Philip II of France decided to start the Albigensian Crusade to eliminate Catharism in the south of France. Albi was an important center of the Cathars and got nearly completely destroyed between 1209 and 1229. Many Cathars were burnt at the stake in Albi. When, just after the Crusade, Durand de Beaucaire was bishop here, the erection of this fortress and the donjon started. The fortress, what was meant to be the episcopal palace, was enlarged and furher fortified even by his successors. Obviously the Catholic administration did not really feel safe and comfortable in that time. Later, the bishops transformed the structure into a stately palace with Baroque gardens, overlooking the river Tarn. Since the 1920s the Palais de la Berbie hosts the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum. Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864 – 1901) was born in Albi.

Albi was a wealthy and prospering time already in the 11th century, when a bridge, that still exists, was built, to cross the river Tarn. Albis´s fate changed dramatically, when in 1208 Pope Innocent III and Philip II of France decided to start the Albigensian Crusade to eliminate Catharism in the south of France. Albi was an important center of the Cathars and got nearly completely destroyed between 1209 and 1229. Many Cathars were burnt at the stake in Albi. After Albigensian Crusade Bishop Bernard de Castanet, who as well was the Chief Inquisitor, ordered the building of the cathedral of Sainte-Cécile in 1282. This cathedral, built from red bricks, is a massive statement of power. It is one of the largest brick buildings in the world. I had been in Albi a couple of times, so I´ll not add more details of the cathedral´s exterior. Seen here is the nave, facing west. The cathedral has no portal on the west side. I learned, that the former Cathar quarters were mainly in that direction, so people from there, did not deserve a portal. The architecture of the cathedral is a kind of propaganda against the heretics. The paintings seen below the organ (1736, Christophe Moucherel) have really horrifying details of physical torture in hell.

Albi was a wealthy and prospering time already in the 11th century, when a bridge, that still exists, was built, to cross the river Tarn. Albis´s fate changed dramatically, when in 1208 Pope Innocent III and Philip II of France decided to start the Albigensian Crusade to eliminate Catharism in the south of France. Albi was an important center of the Cathars and got nearly completely destroyed between 1209 and 1229. Many Cathars were burnt at the stake in Albi. After Albigensian Crusade Bishop Bernard de Castanet, who as well was the Chief Inquisitor, ordered the building of the cathedral of Sainte-Cécile in 1282. This cathedral, built from red bricks, is a massive statement of power. It is one of the largest brick buildings in the world. I had been in Albi a couple of times, so I´ll not add more details of the cathedral´s exterior. The cathedral has no portal on the west side. I learned, that the former Cathar quarters were mainly in that direction, so people from there, did not deserve a portal. The architecture of the cathedral is a kind of propaganda against the heretics. The paintings seen below the organ (1736, Christophe Moucherel) depict the Last Judgement. They were painted 1474-1484 and have really horrifying details of physical torture in hell. They remind me on works of Hieronymus Bosch.

The more and the longer I have travelled (with limited baggage!) - the more I loved launderettes. This one in Albi had a very clean and nearly irresistible smell.

The church of the fromer collegiate is older than the neighbouring cathedral. The former cloister is like an oasis between the houses. One side of the cloister still exists and is used as a pedestrian shortcut between two roads. The capitals of the cloister are very weathered.

The church of the fromer collegiate is older than the neighbouring cathedral. The former cloister is like an oasis between the houses. One side of the cloister still exists and is used as a pedestrian shortcut between two roads. The capitals of the cloister are very weathered. here are - on the left - people in chains.

Jean-François de Galaup, comte de Lapérouse, was born near Albi in 1741. Louis XVI appointed him to lead an expedition around the world. It was planned, to complete the Pacific discoveries of James Cook. Lapérouse´s ships were the "L'Astrolabe" and the "La Boussole". There was a 220-men-crew. One young man, who had applied for the voyage was 16-years-old Napoléon Bonaparte. He was not chosen and so stayed in France. The ships left Brest in 1785 and it was expected to see them back again in 1789, but both ships had been wrecked on Vanikoro Island in 1788. The fate of them was unknown upto 1826, when cannonballs, anchors and other evidence of the remains of ships were found in the reefs of Vanikoro. Some of these remains are kept in the Lapérouse-Museum, located near the Pont Vieux. www.laperouse-france.fr/ "Landfalls", is a very entertaining novel, written by Naomi J. Williams. It´s fictional, but very "near" to the existing sources. naomijwilliams.com/publications/landfalls/

The summer is really hot in Southern France. So there are fountains to cool down in the early evening.

The summer is really hot in Southern France. So there are fountains to cool down in the early evening.

Albi was a wealthy and prospering time already in the 11th century, when a bridge, that still exists, was built, to cross the river Tarn. Albis´s fate changed dramatically, when in 1208 Pope Innocent III and Philip II of France decided to start the Albigensian Crusade to eliminate Catharism in the south of France. Albi was an important center of the Cathars and got nearly completely destroyed between 1209 and 1229. Many Cathars were burnt at the stake in Albi. After Albingensian Crusade Bishop Bernard de Castanet, who as well was the Chief Inquisitor, ordered the building of the cathedral of Sainte-Cécile in 1282. This cathedral, built from red bricks, is a massive statement of power. It is one of the largest brick buildings in the world. I had been in Albi a couple of times before, but for the first time I stayed at the Ibis Styles hotel. I had choosen the highrising building, as I knew I would be able to see the cathedral from my room in the morning, in the afternoon and even late at night. So this photo was taken just after sunset.

Albi was a wealthy and prospering time already in the 11th century, when a bridge, that still exists, was built, to cross the river Tarn. Albis´s fate changed dramatically, when in 1208 Pope Innocent III and Philip II of France decided to start the Albigensian Crusade to eliminate Catharism in the south of France. Albi was an important center of the Cathars and got nearly completely destroyed between 1209 and 1229. Many Cathars were burnt at the stake in Albi. After Albingensian Crusade Bishop Bernard de Castanet, who as well was the Chief Inquisitor, ordered the building of the cathedral of Sainte-Cécile in 1282. This cathedral, built from red bricks, is a massive statement of power. It is one of the largest brick buildings in the world. I had been in Albi a couple of times before, but for the first time I stayed in the Ibis Styles hotel. I had choosen the highrising building, as I knew I would be able to see the cathedral from my room in the morning, in the afternoon and even late at night, when this photo was taken.

Lavaur was a bastion of the Cathars in the 12th century. In 1211, after a siege, it was taken by Catholic troops, lead by Simon de Montfort. Dame Guiraude de Laurac, lady of Lavaur at the time, was killed, being thrown down a well and stoned to death. About 400 Cathars perished in the flames of one of the largest stakes of the Crusade. The Albigensian Crusade had so many cruelties. The towns fortifications got dismanteled and over the next decades Lavaur grew. In a "new" district a Franciscan community was founded in 1235. The erection of the monastery´s church lasted three centuries, it was consecrated in 1512.