Verona - Basilica di San Zeno

Already Theodoric the Great, King of the Ostrogoths, may have funded a church, erected over the tomb of Saint Zeno, who, following the legends, was born in Mauretania and died around 380 in Verona.

The erection of the present church began in the 9th century. Soon after San Zeno´s relics were translated into the new church. At that time Charlemagne´s son Pepin (aka "Pepin of Italy") resided in Verona and a large Benedictine monastery grew all around the church.

When the Magyars invaded Italy in the early 10th century, the church got severely damaged, but the relics were not harmed, as they had been taken out and were hidden. In 967, a new church was built with the patronage of Otto I.

On January 3, 1117, the church was damaged by an earthquake, that ruined so many buildings in Northern Italy. The church was restored and got enlarged in 1138.

The façade is striking! It was created in two different stages. The portico and the portal were carved before 1138 by Niccolò (see "Duomo de Verona") and his school. During the second half of the 12th century Master Guglielmo ("Gugliemus") completed the facade.

There are four reliefs that are very uncommon and probably connect to Theodoric the Great (+526). As he was Arian Christ (not accepting the papal power), this may have some political background. The Investiture Controversy was still not settled, though Henry IV, Holy Roman Emperor had "visited" Pope Gregory VII in Canossa some decades before.

Here is a hunter on horseback following a deer, who runs into the hell´s gate, where a devil is already waiting.

Following the literature, the inscription reads:

O REGEM STULTUM PETIT INFERNALE TRIBUTUM MOXQUE PARATUR EQUUS QUEM MISIT DEMON INIQUUS EXIT AQUAM NUDUS PETIT INFERA NON REDITURUS..

(Oh stupid king running to the hellish tribute. A horse is ready, sent by the evil devil. Naked he steps out of the water approaches the hell with no return...)

This scene is connected to the Thidrekssaga and the Hildebrandslied...