Richard And Jo Demeester's photos

Cashew Juice

28 Feb 2026 36
A tasty and refreshing drink made from the cashew apple, the fruit around the nut.

Glowing

01 Mar 2026 29
It was Sunday, and the streets of Recife had a party vibe. That is apparently the case every Sunday. Markets and food stalls, bands outside bars, and people dining in the streets to enjoy the music. A guy with paints was circling around, decorating whoever volunteered their face or limbs as a canvas.

Looking Out from Central Recife

01 Mar 2026 31
Behind us there is the breakwater we were on earlier. The Torre de Cristal is the centrepiece of Franciso Brennand sculpture park. It is inspired by a specific cactus flower. The park was created to celebrate the 500th anniversary of Brazil's discovery. That centrepiece tower is now one of the modern icons for the city.

It Was a Hoot

01 May 2026 31
We visited a museum in Recife. In a large room to the back of the museum we encountered a man with a piano accordion and a variety of percussion instruments. As people peered in, he would beckon and encourage. As he furnished each of us with an instrument, he also gave us our unique rhythm. Then he played and sang. I believe the songs were from Luiz Gonzaga, Locals seemed to know them and sang along with apparent nostalgia.

The Estuary and Recife

01 Mar 2026 28
Over there is Marco Zero, where Recife was founded. It is from where everything in the area is measured, and it is the heart of the city. Renovated warehouses filled with shops and restaurants are a feature, to the left. Cultural buildings are visible. At the right is the distinctive Museu Cais do Sertão. Meanwhile, we are over here, not over there. This photo is taken from a narrow reef that has been strengthened and built up to be Recife's protective breakwater. It is now a sculpture park, and short cheap boat ride from Marco Zero got us here. It features scores of sculptures, bronze and ceramic, by Francisco Brennand. The sculptures have a few recurring themes, with animals like turtles and pelicans making frequent appearances. Various eggs or egg-like objects are common. There are mythical creatures included. Fertility seems to be a recurring element. Here is a sentinel, one of the guardians he created, accompanied by a turtle and a bird.

Churrascaria de Rodízio

27 Feb 2026 32
Take a seat and order a drink. The passadores weave through the tables with swords of meat. They look inquisitively at you as they pass, and a smile or a nod or a gesture brings them to a stop. They describe what they have as they slice, not that we understand them. In any case, we can work it out. Using tongs we take the slices as they fold off. Be careful to stop him to avoid filling up early; he'll keep carving if you don't intervene. More choices will present, and besides, you can catch more of a favourite when it makes another pass later. Sirloin steak and other beef cuts feature heavily, while chicken and lamb make occasional appearances. These are not marinated. A bit of salt and perfect cooking are the secrets for the meats to shine. Spicy little sausages come past, and they are winners in my eyes. And while not everything is for us, there are obviously fans amongst the patrons for everything, including the liver and the chicken hearts, There's a huge buffet, too, with salads and vegetables, soups and stews, seafood and sushi, chips and mash potato and onion rings. You get the idea. So, while meat is the star, those who want a balance can certainly have it. Unsurprisingly, that is not my style. A single pass of the extras, a tiny taste of a few morsels, and I'm done there. Back to the table and stay alert. Ooh, what does that waiter have?

Rua Direita de Santo Antônio

26 Feb 2026 25
Santo Antônio Além do Carmo is a district of particular note, feeling less cluttered with tourists. Although there are numerous art studios and galleries, as well as bars and restaurants, the general vibe was more down to earth. It felt like the neighbourhood locals head to. Built on a winding ridge heading north of the centre, most of the buildings on the west would enjoy amazing sea views, with incredible sunsets I'm sure.

Continuing North

26 Feb 2026 30
More buildings to admire as we wandered the streets of Salvador.

A Point on a Triangular Square

26 Feb 2026 21
A distinctive Afro-Brazilian church on the square. A strong symbol for the community, it was built by slaves for themselves, but not under instruction. They chose to build this, during their small amounts of free time, taking nearly a century to complete.

Largo do Pelourinho

26 Feb 2026 26
We stayed right on this square, which actually is more of a triangle. It's beautiful, at many times noisily filled with drummers, but an early start gets some photos before the tourists pile in. While it is one of the jewels of Salvador for its wonderful architecture, the somber fact is there in the name. Pelourinho means pillory, or whipping post. This was once the place of public punishment.

Mmmm, Blue Drinks

25 Feb 2026 25
To be honest, I don't remember what the drinks were marketed as. It's not the drinks we need to remember. The meals were great, simple meals that felt more like they came from a home kitchen, but it's not those either. The photo is here for us to remember the trouble we had finding somewhere to enjoy the sunset after scurrying through an increasingly emptying market. Feeling dodgier at every turn, we were convinced there must be somewhere on the seaward side to sit and drink and eat. And almost everything was closed. Almost. One stalwart little eatery right on the water's edge, complete with views of the sunset and islands. Drinks, food, and our fingers on the ferry pulse of Salvador. That is what we want to remember.

Unmistakable Salvador

25 Feb 2026 27
The lighthouse sits inside an old fort, Santo Antônio da Barra. The black and white stripes alone seem to be what makes this so iconic for Salvador. A fantastic nautical museum is now housed in the fort itself, with a good sized (read "not too much") amount of items on display.

Elevador Lacerda Behind Me

24 Feb 2026 31
The Art Deco appearance was a result of 1930s renovations. The concept and underlying structure date back another 60 or 70 years before that, to the latter 19th century, when it was opened as the world's first public elevator.

Natural Ventilation

24 Feb 2026 23
Once upon a time, staying cool was more about clever design than mechanics. It's a bonus that the arches make fantastic frames for the spectacular views.

No, Jo, it will Never Fit

24 Feb 2026 24
Yes, I do realise we could finally fit all our spices in. An apothecary cabinet in Museu da Misericórdia, the Muesum of Mercy.

The Belly Button of Bahia

24 Feb 2026 29
Forte de São Marcelo, with a catchy little nickname from it's unusual donut shape.

Our First Salvador Meal, Moqueca

23 Feb 2026 27
Moqueca is a local seafood stew. A perfect gastronomical fusion of Indigenous, African, and Portuguese influences. Options are prawns and seafood, fish, or a mixed version, with veggies, spices and coconut milk. Perhaps the secret is the Dende palm oil, described as bringing a nutty flavour? Or maybe the secret is not in the ingredients. Perhaps if we are ever going to authentically reproduce it we might need to get a genuine Salvador hand made clay pot.

The Curves of Bahia

23 Feb 2026 38
Coming in to Salvador.

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