Richard And Jo Demeester's photos

This fantastic lunch at a roadside eatery was a highlight meal of our time in Moldova. So many dumplings and a genuine pair of traditional Moldovan main courses. Washed down with a glass of local brandy. But the heart of the people running this eatery really shone through. I went on-line to leave a review, which I rarely do, and read some beautiful stories accompanying the 5 star ratings.

Continuing on, we came across this beautiful celebration of the stork, a relatively ubiquitous bird across the country.

So, there is possibly scope for a coffee table book about wells in Moldova. Certainly, there are already on-line albums and blogs. This one stood out for it's "hanging" design, with the winch suspended above the well, but not connected directly to it.

This wonderful perfectly proportioned castle stands as a symbol of Modovan pride. Perfectly circular, on the river facing Ukraine, it was constructed in the 15th century. Stephen the Great, revered and loved both in his day and now, ordered the defence of this spot. Although his original fort was replaced in the century that followed, he still takes much of the glory for the old defensive structures of Moldova.

This 19th century cathedral is one of five churches in the monastery of Curchi. The whole complex deteriorated during the soviet era, with frescoes being damaged beyond repair and important pieces of art going missing. The complex was utilised as a hospital focusing on psychiatry and the treatment of drug addiction. The restoration is impeccable, in my opinion, with a genuine feeling of authentic age.

Perched on a ridge, this ancient cross is just above the old cave monastery. A fantastic spot for the breathtaking view. In the background stands the 20th century St Mary's Church, a true cultural icon for Moldova.

The main chapel inside a cave monastery. Hewn into the cliff face high above the river, the original entrance involved trekking along the river, then navigating ancient stairs up to a fairly narrow ledge. An addition from the last century is a corridor cut through the rock, allowing much easier access from the walking trail above. Walls blackened by centuries of burning candles. Narrow passages lit by only those candles and some natural light from the single window. Ancient monastic cells with not a hint of creature-comfort, and not a smidge of decoration. There are resident monks. This is a living place of faith meets geology.

A wonderful splash of colour in Bender, as we headed out of Transnistria and back to regions less controversial.

The monastery had a blip from the 1960's until the collapse of the Soviet Union. While the churches inside were preserved, the function of the majority of buildings was altered to serve as a hospital. Only in 1990 did the monks return.

If we'd known, we might have gone a different way. But I'm glad we didn't. "Jo, are you sure this is right?" I asked as we wound our way down from the road towards the river. I had been expecting, quite naturally, a bridge to take us across. Instead, a handful of roubles later, the boatman waved us aboard and got us moving. How many roubles, I couldn't say - it was just the change left over from lunch at the USSR Cantine, so I figured it couldn't have been more than a euro or so. A dog hopped onto the little ferry with us. Before we'd even reached the opposite bank, he leapt ashore, clearing the narrowing gap as the ferry eased alongside, and disappeared into the bushes. As we drove off, there he was again, trotting back just in time to board with the truck waiting to make the return crossing. We didn't stop smiling for hours.

Styled as a Soviet-era canteen, it's designed to recreate the everyday experience of eating in the Soviet Union. Cafeteria trays, simple dishes, Soviet crockery, propaganda posters, portraits of Soviet leaders, old radios and televisions, and shelves of memorabilia. Inexpensive and traditional. I expected kitsch for tourists. However, it was largely locals eating in. It felt more like stepping into a preserved slice of everyday Soviet life than into a themed restaurant.

A striking juxtaposition. The tank speaks of the cost of war. The church evokes faith, remembrance, and hope. The state narrative of strength, duty, and military victory. The personal response of loss and mourning. It felt like a quiet summary of Transnistria itself - where military pride and spiritual devotion stand side by side.

16th century Bender Castle occupying the sight of an earlier fortress. This was our first stop inside Transnistria, an unrecognised breakaway region of Moldova.

So, the lump on the noggin. A fall in the street when I stumbled over the uneven footpath. Yes, ouch, and it was a massive golf-ball sized mound. For our menu, we chose to go with the local specialities. Yes, they were fancied up to suit the splendour of the winery restaurant, but I want to, as much as possible, savour the flavours of the region.

On the day of my birthday. A wine tour, followed by a multi course dinner with paired wines.

I did not want to intrude, or make this lady uncomfortable. Taking a photo may draw attention to something that, most likely, is a highly undesirable chore, repeated countless times per day.