Richard And Jo Demeester's photos

There was some cloud cover, giving us some protection from sun burn, but enough blue for great photos. At times like this, I pine for the old SLR. With film, I think the joy of setting up and capturing a scene like this would have been fulfilling, ensuing the light, angle, settings, and interference factors are low, long before pressing the button and using one precious frame.

One of the largest species of grasshopper in the world.

Not all the waterfalls we visited are swimable. Perhaps just as well. I was tiring a bit from the process. So, this way-point might be labelled as an "admire the pretty waterfall" stop.

At this waterfall, we could bathe in the cave behind the falls. Even accessing the pool at the base of the falls was a micro-adventure, requiring a swim through a tunnel.

I could not say no to a dip in the natural pool.

At over 150 metres, this cascade is certainly the tallest waterfall in this region of Brazil. This was our first stop at Boca da Onça. Every now and then, the air would fill with squawks. Numerous birds would emerge from the jungle and circle, maybe 3 or 4 times, near the upper areas of the falls, before landing in rocky crevices or returning to the trees. The scarlet reds or blues of macaws were easy to pick out, while the darker coloured birds remained largely unidentified. Combined with the filtered sunlight and the noisy birds, this was a delightful first stop on our day trip. At the back of my mind, though, we have to walk back up. We started at the top of those falls!

Watching caiman from below water level was fascinating. Sitting was aided by using one or two of the provided cushions. Having the glass so close to floor level was fantastic for making the experience accessible for kids, and this window seemed to have them enthralled for longer than other spots. The caimans would alternate, floating at the top with just eyes and nostrils showing, and then for no reason, they would sink to the bottom where they would sit, equally as motionless. If two or more bumped in to each other, they would just tolerate it, maybe clawing a bit at the other to make some space, but just generally coping with another caiman on their head or tail.

Bioparque Pantanal, admiring the fish interactions.

In the world's largest freshwater aquarium. The aquarium is part of a bigger museum, but we were primarily here for the aquatic creatures. Amazingly, the visit is free, but you should book in advance as there is a limit. It was not busy when we were there, so our lack of preparedness did not impact. The focus is on Brazilian freshwater fish, but they had some tanks with samples of species from many other corners of the globe.

With Morro do Pico behind, I waited at the end of the runway, flightradar open on my phone. Our plane arriving to pick us up. Flight is the only practical way for visitors to come to the archipelago, about an hour from Recife. Not only visitors, almost everything on the island arrives by air. This is just the start of what makes visiting expensive. There is a fairly steep daily charge, an environmental protection tax. There is a separate hefty national park fee payable to visit most of the beaches or any of the marine areas. Yes, it was certainly worth it, but we were quite conscious of how much this little side trip was costing.

I love the almost pre-historic silhouette that the frigate bird creates. I still remember the first time we saw them, and the impact they had on me many years ago. Seeing them again at Fernando de Noronha gave me a wonderful flashback.

Praia do Leão, or Lion Beach. Named for the rock that resembles a reclining sea lion. We swam here, cautiously, because of very strong current. Shore was always close, and we ensured we stayed where our feet could touch the sandy bottom. The water temperature was perfect, and it was a lovely reward after having walked 30 minutes or so from the bus stop without shade. When a couple who were sunning on the sand came to the waters edge to alert us to a shark, the decision was effectively made for us to leave the water. Unfortunately, or maybe fortunately, we did not see the shark. They described it as "baby", and it can't have been too big as it allegedly swam between us and the dry sand. Later discussions revealed, though, that big or small, one must take the threat seriously. The next major beach around is Baía do Sueste (Southeast Bay), and it was closed to water activities after a couple of serious shark attacks. Fernando de Noronha is actually rated, overall, as supporting very healthy shark populations.

This distinct peak is the highest point in the archipelago of Fernando de Noronha. A memorable sunset silhouette.

Named for their agility, the quirky crabs provided some entertainment while we drank a beer awaiting sunset.

Baía do Sancho, Fernando de Noronha, often ranks in the list of the World's Most Beautiful Beaches. I don't 100% agree. However, I cannot deny it is definitely gorgeous. Difficult access adds to the charm, with a pair of ladders in a fissure of rock the only practical way from the clifftop to the sand. Access to the ladders is restricted, with ascent or descent only allowed in alternating hours.

Olinda is spread across multiple levels, from the seafront to a lovely square on a hill top. This view from that hill shows lower Olinda in the foreground, with its dominant southern neighbour Recife in the background.

Olinda is a stunning town, a World Heritage site famous for its beautifully preserved churches and steep, winding streets lined with vibrant pastel houses. It is a bustling hub for artists and crafts, and a must-do day-trip from Recife.