Medieval Apes and Monkeys

Castile and Mauricio, the Bishop of Burgos. Ferdinand had just married Barbarossa´s granddaughter Beatrice of Swabia (aka "Elisabeth of Swabia") and wanted a cathedral, reflecting his new role in the European power game. The former Romanesque cathedral got demolished and on July 20, 1221, the construction of the new Gothic started under the guidance of an unknown French architect. After nine years, the chevet was completed and the high altar was consecrated. Then the construction stopped for about 200 years. Attending the Council of Basel (aka "Council of Florence") in 1435 bishop (and diplomat) Alfonso de Cartagena saw the just completed, elegant towers of the Basel Minster. When he returned to Burgos he was accompanied by German architect Johannes von Köln (aka "Juan de Colonia"), who probably knew the blueprints of the towers, planned for the Cathedral of Cologne. Under his guidance the towers of the Cathedral were completed in open tracery. He was followed on the construction site by his son Simon de Colonia. Francisco de Colonia, Simon´s son, continued the work and created the Pellejería-Portal. This was a family business. There are wild men and mermaids, but surprisingly apes and monkeys are the most abundant species here. This one seems surprised to see the onlooker below. His companion is a dog with a human head. The bird is a certified and very busy chiropodist.

Castile and Mauricio, the Bishop of Burgos. Ferdinand had just married Barbarossa´s granddaughter Beatrice of Swabia (aka "Elisabeth of Swabia") and wanted a cathedral, reflecting his new role in the European power game. The former Romanesque cathedral got demolished and on July 20, 1221, the construction of the new Gothic started under the guidance of an unknown French architect. After nine years, the chevet was completed and the high altar was consecrated. Then the construction stopped for about 200 years. Attending the Council of Basel (aka "Council of Florence") in 1435 bishop (and diplomat) Alfonso de Cartagena saw the just completed, elegant towers of the Basel Minster. When he returned to Burgos he was accompanied by German architect Johannes von Köln (aka "Juan de Colonia"), who probably knew the blueprints of the towers, planned for the Cathedral of Cologne. Under his guidance the towers of the Cathedral were completed in open tracery. He was followed on the construction site by his son Simon de Colonia. Francisco de Colonia, Simon´s son, continued the work and created the Pellejería-Portal. This was a family business. There are many slim and fit apes and monkeys here (see previous uploads). This one is different. The monkey is fat, clumsy, chained and vandalized. Somebody has chipped off - a drum? Or an ithyphallus? I browsed through Amandine Gaudron´s "Le singe médiéval". There are many musicians, dancers and acrobats, but I could not find an exhibitionist.

The town was founded by the hermit Domingo de la Calzada (aka "Dominic of the Causeway"), who supported the pilgrims on the way to Santiago de Compostela. Domingo not only built a hospital for the pilgrims, but as well a paved causeway and a bridge. He was such a successfull architect, that he is still patron saint of the Spanish civil engineers. The first church, erected by him, got consecrated in 1106. The Romanesque apse and thge ambulatory of that church have survived the times. Under the roofs of the apse are some great corbels. Cultural exchange was very common along the caminos/chemins. In the nearby town of Estella (founded 1090) recent excavations have proven, that early settlers came from Le Puy ("Via Podiensis") and Tour ("Via Turonensis"). So it is no wonder, that architectural designs and icons "traveled" with the pilgrims. Here is a monkey on a rope, a typical "singe cordé", that can often be found in France (especially Burgundy).

The village Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges, named after a bishop of the once existing diocese here,was just like neighbouring Valcabrère once part of a large Roman settlement, that may have had about 30.000 inhabitants. In the early 5th century the Vandals sacked the city, in 585 merovingian troops razed the site, that probably had the bishopric seat already at that time. Saint Bertrand of Comminges (1073–1123) restored and fortified the town. He commissioned the erection of the cathedral. Saint Bertrand´s tomb was a center of regional pilgrimage already before he got canonized around 1220. Pope Clement V, who had once been Bishop of this diocese, strongly promoted the pilgrimage, so that soon after the Romanesque church was to small for the many "pelerins". Between 1304 and 1352 the major part of old nave got demolished to make room for a new, larger Gothic nave. In 1586, during the Wars of Religion, the cathedral was looted and severely damaged by the Huguenot troops. It took the next centuries to restore and repair. Saint-Bertrand´s relics were hidden during the Huguenot raids and are meanwhile back in the cathedral. These two capitals near the portal are interesting. There are two lions, bending down, on the left and two sitting monkeys on the right. The carvings style as well as the combination lion/monkey can often be found in the southern part of Languedoc (eg Prieuré de Serrabone, Elne, Saint Michel de Cuxa). The ancient Diocese of Comminges, that existed up to the French Revolution, was rather large in medieval times. It included even areas south of the Pyrenees like the Val d’Aran.

The village Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges, named after a bishop of the once existing diocese here,was just like neighbouring Valcabrère once part of a large Roman settlement, that may have had about 30.000 inhabitants. In the early 5th century the Vandals sacked the city, in 585 merovingian troops razed the site, that probably had the bishopric seat already at that time. Saint Bertrand of Comminges (1073–1123) restored and fortified the town. He commissioned the erection of the cathedral. Saint Bertrand´s tomb was a center of regional pilgrimage already before he got canonized around 1220. Pope Clement V, who had once been Bishop of this diocese, strongly promoted the pilgrimage, so that soon after the Romanesque church was to small for the many "pelerins". Between 1304 and 1352 the major part of old nave got demolished to make room for a new, larger Gothic nave. In 1586, during the Wars of Religion, the cathedral was looted and severely damaged by the Huguenot troops. It took the next centuries to restore and repair. Saint-Bertrand´s relics were hidden during the Huguenot raids and are meanwhile back in the cathedral. Bishop Jean de Mauléon undertook a great part of necessary renovation after the Wars. He commissioned the 67 stalls for the canons. The stalls, placed behind the rood screen, may be created around 1530 by the studio of Nicolas Bachelier. This is not proven but there are many parallels to the stalls in the cathedral of Auch. Here are to chained monkeys. More infos can be found at the cathedral´s website: www.cathedrale-saint-bertrand.org/

Sens was an important place in medieval times. Upto the 11th century the Archbishop of Sens hold the title "Primate of the Gauls and Germania". Thomas Becket lived in Sens for some time, when he was forced to leave England. Here Thomas met Pope Pope Alexander III. In 1141 Bishop Henri Sanglier here caused the condemnation of Peter Abelard. Bishop Henri Sanglier was well connected to the leading political figures. He and Abbot Suger de Saint-Denis were close friends - and had similar architectural ideas. Abbot Suger decided around 1137 to rebuild the Church of Saint-Denis. Bishop Henri started the construction of this cathedral around 1140. It is still discussed, which church is older, as this would be the oldest early Gothic church in France. While in Saint Denis (130kms northwest) the building process came to an halt for some time, the choir of the cathedral in Sens was completed already in 1168. It is sure, as Suger´s church in Saint Denis was an abbey church, the "Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Sens" is the oldest Gothic cathedral in France. Of course, there were many alterations done later. After the southern tower of the western facade collapsed in 1267 it got rebuilt within the next decades. When Pope Alexander III consecrated the cathedral in 1164 it may not have been fully completed. On 27 May 1234 Louis IX (aka "Saint Louis") married Marguerite de Provence, who was 13 years old at that time. Many carvings are Romanesque, this one is younger. Here are two monkees and a putto.

The Leaning Tower is the main tourist attraction in Pisa. Zillions of photos are taken here each week. The construction of the tower started exactly on August 14, 1173. Architects were either Bonanno Pisano, who created the bronze doors (previous uploads) or Diotisalvi, the architect of the Baptistery. The tower's tilt began already during the construction, caused by an inadequate foundation on ground too soft to properly support the structure's weight. Due to wars, Pisa waged against Genoa, Lucca and Florence, it was on halt for a century, but was continued and completed in 1372. A long discussion started in the 20th century, how to prevent the tower from toppling. 800 tonnes of lead counterweights got installed. In 1989, after a medieval tower in Pavia had collapsed, the Leaning Tower was closed to the public. Engineers were able to straighten the tower by 45 cms and the tower was opened to the public again end of 2001. In 2008, after the removal of 70 tons of ground, engineers announced that the Tower had been stabilized. They stated it would be stable for at least 200 years. These monkeys sit near the portal of the tower - since around 1200.

Just like in neighbouring Jarnac-Champagne priory, dependent on the (once important) Benedictian abbey Saint-Sauveur de Charroux existed here since the 12th century. At that time Saint-Martin was erected as the church for the priory. The church got enlarged and vaulted in the 13th and 14th century, but during the Wars of Religion, the structure got severely damaged, so that the ceiling and the crossing dome collapsed. The imposant western facade with the large archivolts survived the attacks. The priory was sold after the French Revolution and all buildings, but the church, got demolished. Today Saint-Martin serves as the parish church of the small village. - As I have uploaded already many photos taken here previously, I will just add a few "new" ones. I am pretty sure, that the right wrestler is an ape. Maybe even both wrestlers are apes.

Radegonde (aka "Radegund", "Radegundis") was a princess, born in Thuringia around 520. She was married to Chlothar I but left her husband and founded the convent "Sainte-Marie-Hors-les-Murs" in Poitiers around 552. The nunnery was the first and became the most important in the Frankish Empire. After having received a fragment of the "True Cross" from the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, the name of the abbey changed to "Abbaye Sainte-Croix". In 587 Radegonde was buried here. The first church was erected over her tomb. Radegonde´s remains were exhumed in 1012 for public veneration, what triggered a major pilgrimage to Poitiers. After a major fire, the church was rebuilt. The church of today, constructed from the 11th to 12th centuries, was built in a combination of Romanesque and Gothic styles. Sculptured corbels line both sides of the nave. A little monkey - up on the wall. Here is some info about apes and monkeys: mad.hypotheses.org/37

Trogir was founded by Greek colonists in the 3rd century BC. In Roman times this was an important harbour town. From the 9th century on Trogir was under Croatian rule and later part of the Byzantine empire. A diocese was established in the 11th century, in 1107 the Hungarian-Croatian King Coloman ("The Bookish", "Kálmán Könyves") granted the autonomy. Saracen troops conquered Trogir in 1123 and demolished most of it. From 1420 upto 1797 Trogir belonged to the Republic of Venice. For a short while it belonged to the Napoleonic kingdom of Italy, but upto 1918 Trogir was part of the Habsburg Empire. Trogir is more than 2000 years old. It grew under the influence of the ancient Greeks, the Romans, and the Venetians... Trogir's medieval core, surrounded by walls, comprises (about 10) churches, houses and palaces from the Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque periods. Since 1997 the centre of Trogir is a "UNESCO World Heritage Site". The Cathedral of St. Lawrence was erected from 1213 on the foundations of cathedral destroyed by the Saracens in 1123. Most of the work was done in the 13th century. This cathedral is world wide known for Master Radovan´s portal. The portal was carved by the local architect and sculptor Master Radovan (and his workshop). It was completed and signed by Radovan in 1240. Here are the two sides of the portal. The door posts are decorated with reliefs and two carved columns with scenes of hunting and beasts. The sides of the columns, that flank the doors, are decorated with scenes of people and animals entangled by tendrils. Here is a hairy, horned wild man - and a small monkey in the right corner.

It is proven, that the Abbazia di Sant'Antimo existed since Carolingian times. Legends (of course) know, that it was Charlemagne himself, who founded the abbey when he had left Rome, following the Via Francigana northward. The earliest document relating to the abbey is a land grant of Charlemagne´s son Louis the Pious from 813. One year after the 1117 Verona earthquake, that destroyed so many buildings in Northern Italy, the erection of the church of today started. At that time the a powerful abbey was one of the largest landowners in the area. The decline started in 1212, when, after a decade of hostility, an agreement stated that the abbey had to hand over a quarter of its territories to Siena, including Montalcino. With the rise of the Dominican and the Franciscan Order, the Benedictines lost more influence. In 1462 Pope Pius II surpressed the abbey (just like Abbadia Ardenga, see previous uploads), annexed what ever was left - and handed it over to the Bishop of of Montalcino-Pienza, who was Pius' nephew. The church is about 43 metres long, the nave is more than 20 metres high. There is an ambulatory with three chapels. The church is often compared to Saint-Étienne in Vignory (consecrated ~ 1050 /Burgundy /~ 1000 kms northwest). The influence of French architects and artists, maybe connected to Cluny, is undisputed. There are many sculpted capitals along the nave. This one is noticeable. Depicted is a "singe cordé", a man holding an ape or monkey on a rope. This is a very common icon in and around the Auvergne/France, but not in Italy.

The construction of the Cattedrale di San Giorgio began in the early 12th century, when the city was taken by Matilda of Tuscany (aka "Matilde di Canossa"). When the new cathedral was consecrated in 1135 it was not completed at all. It was - and still is - located in the center of the city. The lower part of the facade is Romanesque was probably built in the first half of the 11th century. The building process was continued a century later in Gothic style. A "renovation" of the Ferrara Cathedral done in the early 18th century resulted in a demolition. Only the facade and the outer walls survived. The the medieval interior and the apses, that once existed are lost. There is amazing number of different pillars all along the old wall (see previous uploud) and some nice capitals. Here a monkey peeps through the leaves.

In the 11th century a church was erected here on the ruins of a Roman temple. It had a single nave and three apses. As the church was next to the Via Francigena a hospital existed here for the pilgrims on their way to Rome. In the early 13th century the church was modified, as by then it had three aisles. Six side chapels were added in the 16th century. Two centuries later San Prospero got a new facade. When the restoration started in 1912 the side chapels got demolished, to bring back / recreate the original church from the 13th century, that has strong parallels to San Geminiano in Vicofertile (previous uploads), just 5kms north. The capitals here are less "rough" compared to that in Vicofertile. A monkey (or dog?) pushing over a man, who seems very surprised, in front of an eagle? Is the man brought on on his knees? The eagle is probably a symbol for Christianity or feudal power. Looks like the stonemason just got a new stone driller.

In 1927, what is pretty recent, the city "Borgo San Donnino" changed it´s name to "Fidenza", as in Roman times it was known as "Fidentia Julia". The city was named and the Duomo inside the walls was dedicated to San Donnino di Fidenza (aka "Domninus of Fidenza"), who was martyred nearby in 291. Sigeric the Serious, Archbishop of Canterbury, made the pilgrimage to Rome following the Via Francigena around 990. His contemporary records of this journey still exist (and are source for the modern guide books). He reached "Sce Domnine" after 36 days, what is pretty fast for more than 1000kms. The erection of the Cattedrale di San Donnino started in the 11th century, the first consecration took place in 1106, though the building process continued. From around 1200 on Master Benedetto Antelami and his workshop worked here, not only as Master masons. Antelami may as well be the architect of the facade. Frederick Barbarossa had entrusted "Borgo San Donnino" to the Pallavicino family of Piacenza. In 1268 - after a siege - the city was conquered by the troops of Parma, who looted and burnt down it completely. All houses got destroyed at that time just the Duomo was saved, but it was not completed at that time. The building process came to a stop - and was never continued. A detail of the facade, carved by Benedetto Antelami and/or his workshop. A monkey riding a horse - or a rat on horseback??

The "Abbazia di Chiaravalle della Colomba" was founded in 1136. It was one of the earliest Cistercian monasteries in Italy. It was a "filiation" of the famous abbey Clairvaux (and maybe even Bernard of Clairvaux was involved). "Chiaravalle" = "claravallis" - just like "Clairvaux". The abbey was sacked and burned in 1248 by Frederick II of Swabia (aka "Frederick the One-Eyed") during his siege of Parma. In 1805 Napoleon's rule led to suppression of the order. In 1810, properties were assigned to the Civil Hospital of Piacenza. The archives and library were sold. Cistercian monks returned in 1937 and by now the abbey has joint ownership with the state. The church was erected during the 12th and 13th centuries, but was refurbished during the 15th century. The abbey has an estraordinary cloister added within the 13th century. At that time, the strict Cistercian soberity, still visible in the church´s interior, must have softened, as here are even sculpted capitals, or as Bernard of Clairvaux called them "ridicula monstruositas". Bernard would probably horrified by this monkey, a mooning "monstruositas".

The "Abbazia di Chiaravalle della Colomba" was founded in 1136. It was one of the earliest Cistercian monasteries in Italy. It was a "filiation" of the famous abbey Clairvaux (and maybe even Bernard of Clairvaux was involved). "Chiaravalle" = "claravallis" - just like "Clairvaux". The abbey was sacked and burned in 1248 by Frederick II of Swabia (aka "Frederick the One-Eyed") during his siege of Parma. In 1805 Napoleon's rule led to suppression of the order. In 1810, properties were assigned to the Civil Hospital of Piacenza. The archives and library were sold. Cistercian monks returned in 1937 and by now the abbey has joint ownership with the state. The church was erected during the 12th and 13th centuries, but was refurbished during the 15th century. The abbey has an estraordinary cloister added within the 13th century. At that time, the strict Cistercian soberity, still visible in the church´s interior, must have softened, as here are even sculpted capitals, or as Bernard of Clairvaux called them "ridicula monstruositas". The monkey on the capital near the portal of the chapter room (previous upload) was already a surprise. Here is a second monkey, eating grapes (?) and bitten by snakes. To the right is a "Master of Beasts".

"Notre-Dame de Reims" replaced an older church, burnt down in 1211. That church had been built on the site of the basilica where Clovis was baptized by Saint Remi, bishop of Reims, in 496. The erection of the the large Gotihc cathedral, the place,where the kings of France were crowned, started before 1220. In 1233 a dispute between the cathedral´s chapter and the population regarding taxation and jurisdication ended in a revolt. After several clerics were killed during the uproar, the chapter fled the town and work on the new cathedral was suspended for three years. By 1241 the choir was already used, the nave got roofed in 1299. Work on the western facade was slow. It was completed within the 14th century, a hundred years after the work started. During the Hundred Years' War the English held Reims after a long siege, but it got reconquered by Jeanne d'Arc´s army in 1429, so that Charles VII of France (aka "le Bien-Servi") was crowned here on 17 July 1429. In the first weeks of WWI German shellfire burned, damaged and destroyed important parts of the cathedral. Restoration work began in 1919 - and is been steadily going on since. A little monkey between two mythical beasts up on a capital. ---- As I have uploaded many photos taken here during previous visits, I will now add only a few.

The collegiate church, dedicated to Saint Ursus of Aosta, existed here already in Carolingian times. Ursus, who may have been Irish, was a missionary, who supported the Bishop of Aosta. When an Arian became bishop of Aosta, Ursus and other canons left the cathedral and settled outside the walls of Aosta at the present site of the collegiate church of Saint Ursus. A Romanesque church was built around 1000, but this church got rebuilt, altered and enlarged many times over the centuries. The stalls, behind the three arches of the choir screen, were carved masterly in 1486. A monkey and a dromedary.