Medieval Apes and Monkeys

Soon after the village was founded 1090 a small, humble single-nave church has been erected right here. Though, this was a small church, it has this large, elaborated portal. The quarries, where the reddish marble was cut, are very close to Villefranche and the workshops working there for Saint-Martin-du-Canigou, Saint-Michel-de-Cuxa or the priory of Serrabone may have offered their masterly work for a "special price" to the local church. The masterly carvings seem like model-carvings for the pious investors of they abbeys and priories, placing orders to the artists. Here is the head of an ape, who has "relatives" all over the Roussilon.

A church existed here before the Moors conquest the iberian peninsula. This church was converted into a mosque in 717. The Franks reconquered Girona in 785 under Charlemagne, and the church was reconsecrated in 908. Bishop Roger (son of Roger I of Carcassonne) started a reconstruction in 1015. A new church and a cloister were built in romanesque style until 1064. The two towers were completed in 1117. The church got redesigned later in gothic style. It is claimed that the cathedral has the widest gothic nave worldwide (22,98m). Within this large gothic nave hides this couple of small monkeys. They just found two rolls and now prepare breakfast.

The town of Peralda, norheast of Figueres, had some importance during Carolingian times. During the 11th century a monastery was founded here by the Augustinians. Since 1578 Dominicans lived here until the secularisation in 1835. The buildings fell in disrepair all got demolished in the early 20th century. Only the wonderful small cloister from the 12th century survived. The cloister has seven double pillars on the northern and southern side, while the eastern and western one has have six pairs of columns. The capitals are a bit roughly carved and have some interesting icons. While the right capital just has a geometric design, the right one has a group of animals. These are for sure no lions (see the "paws"), but judging from heads, toes and fingers, this is a group of apes or monkeys. One of them is on a rope or leash, so there is a parallel to the apes on ropes, that can be found in France, especially in the Auvergne, where these icons are called "singe cordé".

Wilfred the Hairy (aka Guifré el Pilós), whom we just "met" as the founder of the nearby monastery in Sant Joan de les Abadesses, where his daughter Emma of Barcelona was the first abbess, founded the Monastery of Santa Maria in Ripoll in 879. Here his son Radulf de Barcelona was abbot. This was not only Wilfred´s family business, he was very succesful in the political power game of that time. The first church was consecrated in 888, but as the monastery grew it was "reconsecrated" in 935, 977 and 1032. When Oliba de Besalú, as well a descendent of Wilfred, was abbot here (1008 - 1046), this was a cultural center. More than 250 books were on the shelves of the monastery´s library. The church was the burial place for the Counts of Besalú and Barcelona. Still today many tombs can be found in the transept, including that one of Wilfred the Hairy. The decline started within the 15th century. In 1428 it was severely damaged by an earthquake, the restoration was done in Gothic style. The church got ruined the first Carlist War, the library burnt down, the last monks had left. In 1847 part of the cloister and soon after, the abbot´s palace got demolished. The Bishop of Vic organized the rebuilding, so that the church got consecrated again in 1893. The church of today is vastly a product of the reconstruction of th 19th century, but it may be "near" to the romanesque structure. The cloister got reconstructed end of the 19th century as well, but as only a part of it had been demolished, it still contains a lot of the original structure. The construction of the ground floor started 1180 and it took to the the early 15th century to complete it. The second floor dates to the 15th and 16th century. Some of the capitals are sculptured by Jordi de Déu (aka Jordi Johan). Jordi de Déu (+1418), born on the island of Sicily, with greek roots, was sold as a slave to catalan master carver Jaume Cascalls, who taught him sculpture. These damaged romanesque capitals depict mermaids and monkeys. The monkeys seem to stand in water (waves).

This was an important place already in pre-Roman times, known to Strabo as the city of "Orgialla". A bishopric existed already in 527, when the Bishop of Urgell attended a council in Toledo. The bishopric here was (and still) is an important one, even the name "La Seu d'Urgell" translates to See of Urgell, and still today the Bishop of Urgell is co-prince of Andorra (The other co-prince is the French president. We will "meet" Mr. Hollande later). The Cathedral of Santa Maria dates back to the 12th century. It had three predecessors. One of these older cathedrals was consecrated in 839 by Bishop Sisebut in the presence of Sunifred I, father of Wilfred the Hairy (aka Guifré el Pilós), whome we had met so often in Catalonia. Bishop Otto of Urgell (1095-1122) initiated the present cathedral, planned and built by the architect (a term unknown in that time) "Raimundus Lambardus", but the building remained unfinished for quite a while, due to fights between the diocese and the Count Roger I of Foix, who prefered the Albingensian "heresy". In 1195 La Seu d'Urgell was sieged and looted - and at that time the present cathedral was used as a fortress. Of course over the next centuries many parts were added and remodelled. Josep Puig i Cadafalch, actually an architect connected to the "Modernista", led the reconstruction of the whole complex from 1918 on. The cloister, south of the Cathedral of Santa Maria, has lots of carved capitals. Some of them are very cryptical. These monkeys seem to have lion paws.

This was an important place already in pre-Roman times, known to Strabo as the city of "Orgialla". A bishopric existed already in 527, when the Bishop of Urgell attended a council in Toledo. The bishopric here was (and still) is an important one, even the name "La Seu d'Urgell" translates to See of Urgell, and still today the Bishop of Urgell is co-prince of Andorra (The other co-prince is the French president. We will "meet" Mr. Hollande later). The Cathedral of Santa Maria dates back to the 12th century. It had three predecessors. One of these older cathedrals was consecrated in 839 by Bishop Sisebut in the presence of Sunifred I, father of Wilfred the Hairy (aka Guifré el Pilós), whome we had met so often in Catalonia. Bishop Otto of Urgell (1095-1122) initiated the present cathedral, planned and built by the architect (a term unknown in that time) "Raimundus Lambardus", but the building remained unfinished for quite a while, due to fights between the diocese and the Count Roger I of Foix, who prefered the Albingensian "heresy". In 1195 La Seu d'Urgell was sieged and looted - and at that time the present cathedral was used as a fortress. Of course over the next centuries many parts were added and remodelled. Josep Puig i Cadafalch, actually an architect connected to the "Modernista", led the reconstruction of the whole complex from 1918 on. The cloister, south of the Cathedral of Santa Maria, has lots of carved capitals. Some of them are very cryptical. This is the same capital, seen on the previous shot. So here are the monkeys again - from a different pov.

This was an important place already in pre-Roman times, known to Strabo as the city of "Orgialla". A bishopric existed already in 527, when the Bishop of Urgell attended a council in Toledo. The bishopric here was (and still) is an important one, even the name "La Seu d'Urgell" translates to See of Urgell, and still today the Bishop of Urgell is co-prince of Andorra (The other co-prince is the French president. We will "meet" Mr. Hollande later). The Cathedral of Santa Maria dates back to the 12th century. It had three predecessors. One of these older cathedrals was consecrated in 839 by Bishop Sisebut in the presence of Sunifred I, father of Wilfred the Hairy (aka Guifré el Pilós), whome we had met so often in Catalonia. Bishop Otto of Urgell (1095-1122) initiated the present cathedral, planned and built by the architect (a term unknown in that time) "Raimundus Lambardus", but the building remained unfinished for quite a while, due to fights between the diocese and the Count Roger I of Foix, who prefered the Albingensian "heresy". In 1195 La Seu d'Urgell was sieged and looted - and at that time the present cathedral was used as a fortress. Of course over the next centuries many parts were added and remodelled. Josep Puig i Cadafalch, actually an architect connected to the "Modernista", led the reconstruction of the whole complex from 1918 on. The cloister, south of the Cathedral of Santa Maria, has many carved capitals, of which some are very mystical. The monkeys, that got portrayed in this cloister, must have been a special breed, as they are extremly provocative. Here they stick the tongues out at then human onlookers. The palm tree inbetween the monkeys is "classic".

The largest structure in the hamlet of Covet is the church Santa Maria de Covet, a gem of romanesque art in Catalonia. The church, once part of an Augustinian priory, is surprisingly large for that tiny hamlet (pop. ~ 20), but during medieval times this must have been a busier place than it is today. The church (Latin cross plan) is dated 1150/1160 and it is believed, that it was built upon the foundations of an older Visigoth church. These two capitals are on the left side of the portal. They are masterly carved - and full of details. There are to lion-riders, who even dare to tear the mouths of the lions wide open. On the right capital are two male persons, behind the foliage, in an adorante gesture. Very individually sculpted human heads inbetween, while a small monkey-head in the right corner. BTW - none of the heads seen here is decorated with the jug-ears just seen.

A church was erected here already within the 8th century. It was built by Saint Willibald, who was the first bishop of the Diocese of Eichstaett. Saint Willibald was born in England into a remarkable family. His father was Saint Richard of Wessex, his brother was Saint Winibald, his sister was Saint Walburga - and Saint Boniface (who founded the Diocese of Eichstaett) may have been his uncle. Willibald was a very travelled man, he has not only been in Rome, but as well visited the Holy Land. His shrine is in this cathedral. The cathedral seen today is 98 meters long. It was erected in Gothic style between 1256 and 1510 and so covers the Gothic style from the very beginning to it´s famboyant heyday. A detail from the nave, where in the shadow of the pillar an evil monkey strangles the white dove of peace.

End of the 8th century a monastery existed here, displaying the relics of martyr Saint Kastulus, that had been "translated" to Moosburg from Rome. This monastery was converted into a noble collegiate, after the last Benedictian monks had moved to Weihenstephan Abbey in 1021. After the old abbey church had collapsed the erection of a new church started in 1170. The building was done under the guidance of the Bishop of Freising Albert I. (aka Adalbert I.) and so there are many parallels between these two large structures, built during his time. The Freising Cathedral was the first large brick building in Bavaria (after the Romans had left) - and St. Kastulus in Moosburg was the second. Since the secularisation (1803) the church serves as a parish church. The grimacing monkey is a detail of the choir stalls.

Some Abbot Sentimir started to build an abbey here end of the 8th century. The abbey got looted and damaged by "heathens" (Marcel Durliat suspects Normans). From 981 on it was rebuilt by order of King Lothair of France, son of Louis IV of France (aka "Transmarinus"). The abbey slipped under the protection of the Counts of Roussillon and later of the Kings of Aragon. The church was enlarged and re-consecrated in 1153. Since 1088 the abbey was connected to Cluny in Burgundy. The abbey existed upto the French Revolution. The abbey church serves as a parish church "Saint Michel" since 1846. The relief of the white marble lintel over doors of the former abbey church depicts a theophany. For Doyen Marcel Durliat, author of "Roussilion roman", this relief marks the begin of Romanesque sculpturing within the Roussilion. Thanks to an inscription on that lintel (see previous uploads) it is known, that it was carved in 1019. There are four corbels around the lintel, that are younger (12th century). This head of an ape or monkey is one of them. There are a few similar heads in the area of Roussillion. Note that the carver used a driller at the eyes.

Some Abbot Sentimir started to build an abbey here end of the 8th century. The abbey got looted and damaged by "heathens" (Marcel Durliat suspects Normans). From 981 on it was rebuilt by order of King Lothair of France, son of Louis IV of France (aka "Transmarinus"). The abbey slipped under the protection of the Counts of Roussillon and later of the Kings of Aragon. The church was enlarged and re-consecrated in 1153. Since 1088 the abbey was connected to Cluny in Burgundy. The abbey existed upto the French Revolution. The abbey church serves as a parish church "Saint Michel" since 1846. The facade of the fromer abbey church has a white marble lintel over doors of the former abbey church depicting a theophany. For Doyen Marcel Durliat, author of "Roussilion roman", this relief marks the begin of Romanesque sculpturing within the Roussilion. Thanks to an inscription on that lintel (see previous uploads) it is known, that it was carved in 1019. The interior is decorated with a couple of Baroque carvings, but there are Romanesque ones as well. This damaged capital (griffins) now supports the stoup, near the entrance doors. This is the only capital of this kind in Saint-Génis-des-Fontaines. The artist used the same material and worked in the same style, like the capitals in Serrabone, Saint-Michel-de-Cuxa and Villefranche-de-Conflent are carved in. It may come from the same workshop. P.S. Just read, that this capital MAY come from the cloister of the former abbey St-André-de-Sorède, just 4kms east.

The Basilica of St. Sernin in Toulouse, built from red bricks about 1080 - 1120, is the largest still existing Romanesque church in France. It once belonged to the abbey of St. Sernin, that had existed here already within the 5th century near the grave of St. Sernin (aka "Saint Saturnin"). The church, replaced a smaller, carolingian structure, and was erected to accommodate the many pilgrims, as Toulouse has always been a very important stop on the way to Santiago de Compostella. The "Via Tolosana", one of the many ancient pilgrim routes, was named after Toulouse. It is said, that pilgrims, who, for what reasons ever, could not make it to Santiago, tried at least to reach St. Sernin in Toulouse. The western facade of the Basilica is under renovation and reconstruction since long time. It is hidden under scaffoldings and covers. Only some capitals are visible. Here are some monkeys in a jungle of vines.

The Basilica of St. Sernin in Toulouse, built from red bricks about 1080 - 1120, is the largest still existing Romanesque church in France. It once belonged to the abbey of St. Sernin, that had existed here already within the 5th century near the grave of St. Sernin (aka "Saint Saturnin"). The church, replaced a smaller, carolingian structure, and was erected to accommodate the many pilgrims, as Toulouse has always been a very important stop on the way to Santiago de Compostella. The "Via Tolosana", one of the many ancient pilgrim routes, was named after Toulouse. It is said, that pilgrims, who, for what reasons ever, could not make it to Santiago, tried at least to reach St. Sernin in Toulouse. The western facade of the Basilica is under renovation and reconstruction since long time. It is hidden under scaffoldings and covers. Only some capitals are visible. Here are some monkeys in a jungle of vines. This creatures looks like howler monkeys, but as howler monkeys are native to South and Central American forests, it would be more as a surprise to find them on a Romanesque capital.

The Basilica of St. Sernin in Toulouse, built from red bricks about 1080 - 1120, is the largest still existing Romanesque church in France. It once belonged to the abbey of St. Sernin, that had existed here already within the 5th century near the grave of St. Sernin (aka "Saint Saturnin"). The church, replaced a smaller, carolingian structure, and was erected to accommodate the many pilgrims, as Toulouse has always been a very important stop on the way to Santiago de Compostella. The "Via Tolosana", one of the many ancient pilgrim routes, was named after Toulouse. It is said, that pilgrims, who, for what reasons ever, could not make it to Santiago, tried at least to reach St. Sernin in Toulouse. This capital, seen from the nave, depicts two monkeys (?), bending the bow of a very large crossbow, with great effort. A kind of "cupido" stands in the center, holding the arrows.

The cathedral was erected on the foundations of a Romanesque cathedral. The building process started with the crypt and the apses in 1489. It took two centuries to complete it. The large cathedral (102 meters long) is known for the choir stalls, seen here. The carvers started around 1510 and it took about 40 years to complete the stalls, covered with more than 1500 different scenes and figures. Here is one of the scenes. Two monkeys tie up a fat, naked monk.

In 1080, when Morlaàs was in its heydays, the building of this church started by Centulle V, Viscount of Béarn, who had to make an atonement. Morlaàs developed to an important "étape" on the Via Tolosana at that time. As the church was dedicated to St. Foy there was a kind of "link" to Conques. Later the pilgrimage business declined, the viscounts had moved away, wars arose.... The church burnt down in 1520, got severely damaged in 1569. During the French Revolution the church turned to a "Temple of Reason". The restorations of the 19th century saved the structure. Viollet-le-Duc, the influential "Inspecteur général des Edifices Diocésains" led the restoration of the portal. At all places, where he worked (eg "Carcasonne", "Vézelay"), he "recreated" and creatively "completed", what is a method, that is disputed meanwhile. The condition of the portal is a result of this restoration. After the cleaning done in the last years and the installation of pigeon-defence-wires, the carvings are "mint". The entrance doors are flanked by pillars and large sculptures of the apostles on either side. Between the heads of the apostles is this densely populated jungle. Between the maze of entwined vines are many creeping creatures. Toads, pecking birds, a dog - and in the center a little monkey.

In 1080, when Morlaàs was in its heydays, the building of this church started by Centulle V, Viscount of Béarn, who had to make an atonement. Morlaàs developed to an important "étape" on the Via Tolosana at that time. As the church was dedicated to St. Foy there was a kind of "link" to Conques. Later the pilgrimage business declined, the viscounts had moved away, wars arose.... The church burnt down in 1520, got severely damaged in 1569. During the French Revolution the church turned to a "Temple of Reason". The restorations of the 19th century saved the structure. Viollet-le-Duc, the influential "Inspecteur général des Edifices Diocésains" led the restoration of the portal. At all places, where he worked (eg "Carcassonne", "Vézelay"), he "recreated" and creatively "completed", what is a method, that is disputed meanwhile. After having seen the mint condition of the portal, carved by great masters, I returned to the apses. The construction of the building had started here in 1080, so the carvings seen here are way older than that ones of the portal and they are much rougher. Here is a nude monkey on a capital flanking a small window.