Medieval Apes and Monkeys

The small village of Droiturier hosts two remarkable architectoral structures. These are a roman bridge and the church Saint-Nicolas. The 12th century romanesque church was once a part of a benedictian collegiate, belonging to Cluny. The collegiate community is gone since centuries and with all its buildings. The church serves the parish today. The most interesting capital depicts a man and an ape. Here is the ape, a thick rope around his neck. The male ape is naked! The round mouth is typical for the most of these apes led on a rope. To the right, the long-neck-dragon. If this carving would be in Inverness (Scotland), this hidden dragon would be a proof for the medieval existence of the Loch Ness Monster. The icon (man/rope/ape) is somehow typical for the Auvergne area, the French call this "singe cordé". I found a couple of these pairs and will upload more. Meanwhile I learned, that within the Auvergne are about 20 (!) similar carvings.

The church Saint-Pierre-aux-Liens ("St. Peter in Chains") seems huge in the center of a village with a population of well under 150. Cluny owned the place since 1045, and from 1095 on, the small community was administered by the priory of Marcigny. Already in the 1130s the little monastery was important enough to be an "indpendent" cluniacensic priory. This was probably the time, when the construction of the church, built from sandstone. All capitals are under a thick, but peeling coat of white colour. It may be, that this coat conserves them, as they walls are rather but it does not look really nice. Here are a centaur galloping in high speed (see the hair), holding bow and arrow, - and an ape. I have no idea about the connection between the two. Often near hunting centaurs mermaids can be found, not apes. Well of course the creature on the right could be as well a man. But I am pretty sure, that this is an ape. There is in ape on a capital in Clermont-Ferrand, about 130 kms southwest, that is very similar.

In 1082 some Seigneur Dalmas and his wife Étiennette gave all the properties they owned in "Castrumin Montanis", including a church, to Cluny. This legal act was important enough to get an official approval from Pope Urban II in 1095. A priory was set up - and a small church was erected. Parts of this church can still be found in the church seen here, built 1100 - 1200. The priory never really flourished, the community of monks was small - and already from 1462 on, the church was used as a parish church. The church is quite large for a remote village of a population well under 500 (today). When it was planned during the boom of pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostella, Châtel-Montagne was ideally placed on one of the many "Chemin de St-Jacques" in France. As seen already, not only the architectoral structure is built from granite, the carved capitals are carved from this extrem hard stone as well. So they cannot be that fine and detailled as sandstone-carvings can be. They do have a certain kind of roughness. Bernard Craplet describes this as a "siren". I have the impression, this is a baldy, smiling merman. There are fins on the thighs. It does not have the alluring, seductive touch mermaids often have. And, despite being a merman, he works here as an atlant.

The little, romanesque church stands isolated on a little hill, next to the graveyard of Cognat-Lyonne. Upto January 1569, the village was all around the church, but during the Wars of Religions, a battle between Protestants and Catholics took place here and the village got totally destroyed. When the village got rebuilt later, a place some hundered meters north was chosen, leaving the old parish church alone on the hill. The damaged monkey on this corbel was probably an eyewitness of that devastating "Bataille de Cognat". Meanwhile the corbel is severely damaged - eyes and forhead of the monkey got lost. But there is still the typically round mouth.

The parish of Escurolles was given to Cluny in 953/054 by Ermengarde, (probably) the wife of Archambaud I de Bourbon, Seigneur de Bourbon (yes, this is where the illustrious name derived from). The church Saint-Cyr-et-Sainte-Julitte was built 11th/12th century. It has a nave and two aisles. The church is known for some pretty archaic carvings. This capital is from the nave. From left to right: a human head, a small flower, a head of an ape, a small flower. Well, I was in an area, where I just could not leave a place, without having spotted the monkey or ape. These creatures are just everywhere in the Auvergne, and sofar I did not find any plausible explanation for this, other than apes and monkeys existed here. There were people, who kept apes and monkeys and showed them around. Is there anybody able to identify the species?

The 12th century church "Notre-Dame de Fleuriel" was once the seat of a priory, connected the abbey in Tournus. Now it is the parish church. It is known for the western portal. I had read, that it is one of the finest in the area of Bourbonnais. Well, within the Auvergne, it is always worthwile, to look around for the (sometimes hidden) monkey. We saw that maneating tendril already outside, munching a petit person, near the western portal. Here we can see the dangerous leaf tendrils growing out of two birds on the ground and the mouth of a monkey-head. The artist, who created this, is probably identical to the sculpor, who carved the capitals outside. Or at least - these works came from the same studio.

The Basilica Saint-Julien in Brioude was a collegiate church constructed between 1100 - 1180. The structure is influenced by great romanesque churches like "Notre-Dame-Du-Port" in Clermont-Ferrand (70kms north) or "Saint-Austremoine" in Issoire (30kms north), planned and constructed within the same century. Under the roof of the one of the five apse chapels are many corbels. Here are two, depicting - ape and man, a theme, that can be find on a capital in "Notre-Dame-Du-Port" as well. Note the vivid and wild expression of the monkey´s face, both small hands lifted up. He is really trying to frighten the spectator. Quite different compared to the stoic looking man.

The parish church Sainte Croix in Gannat is the result of a very long and complex history. Two apses and some parts of the transept date back to the 12th century. The three rows of the nave and the side aisles were built during the 13th century. From the 14th to the 16th century ten (!) chapels were adjoined without any specific architectural order. This nicely coloured capital from the transept is probably one of the oldest inside the church. Depicted are two atlants at the corners, moaning under the heavy load (see the open mouth) - and a gymnast in the center just starting his skilled performance on a horiziontal bar. Or is the person just a very short weightlifter?

The former church of a priory, built 1150/1170, got remodelled quite often over the centuries. This was done not only by architects, but as well by clerics. The church was dedicated to St. Genesius first, then to St. Limin, followed by Saint-Martin. In the 19th century the dedication changed to Saint-Bonnet and some decades ago to Saint-Bénilde, a saint born in Thuret in 1805 under the name Pierre Romançon. The title "Le Vezelay de la Limagne", that I found on a local leaflet, is too ambitious. There are interesting carvings here. Ever since the art history discovered them as specific works of art, they have been a subject in the literature. B. Craplet ("Auvergne roman", 1992) describes the carvings just as "unskilled". He in general disagrees with Z. Swiechowski ("Sculpture Romane D'auvergne", 1973), who sees this as the work of "naive folk art". A. Gybal ("L´Auvergne, berceau de l´artroman", 1958) describes a specific "Thuret-style" being a totally simplified work of art. Only to be found here. For him, the simplification is the result of the artists inspiration. He makes totally clear, that this is not "folk art" ("l`art populaire"), but the result of artistic work of very skilled monks ("moines tres cultives"). The same capital again, seen from another angle. A large, hairy ape, having a rope around the neck. Pegged to the ground. This icon "man/rope/ape" (here without "man") can seen more often in the Auvergne. The French call this "singe cordé". I have learned, that within the Auvergne are about 20 (!) similar carvings, depicting apes/monkey roped.

The former church of a priory, built 1150/1170, got remodelled quite often over the centuries. This was done not only by architects, but as well by clerics. The church was dedicated to St. Genesius first, then to St. Limin, followed by Saint-Martin. In the 19th century the dedication changed to Saint-Bonnet and some decades ago to Saint-Bénilde, a saint born in Thuret in 1805 under the name Pierre Romançon. The title "Le Vezelay de la Limagne", that I found on a local leaflet, is too ambitious. There are interesting carvings here. Ever since the art history discovered them as specific works of art, they have been a subject in the literature. B. Craplet ("Auvergne roman", 1992) describes the carvings just as "unskilled". He in general disagrees with Z. Swiechowski ("Sculpture Romane D'auvergne", 1973), who sees this as the work of "naive folk art". A. Gybal ("L´Auvergne, berceau de l´artroman", 1958) describes a specific "Thuret-style" being a totally simplified work of art. Only to be found here. For him, the simplification is the result of the artists inspiration. He makes totally clear, that this is not "folk art" ("l`art populaire"), but the result of artistic work of very skilled monks ("moines tres cultives"). A large ape, having a rope around the neck. Pegged to the ground. The ape has the typical round mouth and his look is pretty aggressive, what is no wonder. This icon "man/rope/ape" (here without "man") can seen more often in the Auvergne. The French call this "singe cordé". I have learned, that within the Auvergne are about 20 (!) similar carvings, depicting apes/monkey roped.

Mozac Abbey is one of the oldest monasteries in the Auvergne. Dating back into Merovingian times, a legend tells that it was founded by Calminius (later Saint Calmin). He must have been pretty important and well off, as his name is connected to the foundations of three abbeys. He introduced the benedictian rules to the area, and brought (from Rome)a relic of Saint Peter and (from Agen) a relic of Saint Caprasius to Mozac. He got buried in the crypt of this church together with his wife Saint Namadie. Within the 9th century relics of Saint Austremonius, the first bishop of Clermont were transferred to Mozac, so already before Santiago de Compostella was on the map, this was a place of pilgrimage. In 1095 Mozac abbey got affiliated to Cluny, but was important enough, to have Hugue of Semur, nephew of Hugue of Cluny here as abbot. He was followed by Eustachius, brother of Petrus Venerabilis. Three churches could be traced by archeologists, what can be seen today is "Mozac 3", a great church built within the first half of the 12th century. As most of "Mozac 3" got destroyed by a number earthquakes between 1437 and 1490, actually only ruins can be seen. Apses, choir, ambulatory, radial chapels, transept and clerestorys were beyond repair, when the early reconstruction started - in gothic style. Most pillars and capitals of "Mozac 3" are still in place (in situ). Some / Most of the carvings here are so "perfect", that they seem to be much younger, even baroque, but all are - 12th century - romanesque. - On the right corner sits a very well dressed man and holds a large vessel with two handles. Separated by a tree / shrub sits a large ape, holding a round object. A large fruit maybe. Both are in a similar position and so form a kind of pair. Man / Animal. Dressed / Naked. Holding a natural fruit / holding processed material or food (inside the vessel). When Mr. Charles Darwin visited Mozac in ... Sorry, just a funny aside. Mr. Darwin has been on the Galapagos Islands, but this capital never got his attention. What is a pity! ... :-)

Mozac Abbey is one of the oldest monasteries in the Auvergne. Dating back into Merovingian times, a legend tells that it was founded by Calminius (later Saint Calmin). He must have been pretty important and well off, as his name is connected to the foundations of three abbeys. He introduced the benedictian rules to the area, and brought (from Rome)a relic of Saint Peter and (from Agen) a relic of Saint Caprasius to Mozac. He got buried in the crypt of this church together with his wife Saint Namadie. Within the 9th century relics of Saint Austremonius, the first bishop of Clermont were transferred to Mozac, so already before Santiago de Compostella was on the map, this was a place of pilgrimage. In 1095 Mozac abbey got affiliated to Cluny, but was important enough, to have Hugue of Semur, nephew of Hugue of Cluny here as abbot. He was followed by Eustachius, brother of Petrus Venerabilis. Three churches could be traced by archeologists, what can be seen today is "Mozac 3", a great church built within the first half of the 12th century. As most of "Mozac 3" got destroyed by a number earthquakes between 1437 and 1490. Actually only ruins can be seen. Apses, choir, ambulatory, radial chapels, transept and clerestorys were beyond repair, when the early reconstruction started - in gothic style. Most pillars and capitals of "Mozac 3" are still in place (in situ). Some / Most of the carvings here are so "perfect", that they seem to be much younger, even baroque, but all are - 12th century - romanesque. - The same capital as seen before, now from another angle, focusing the ape. The ape is as large as his human companion on the right. The ape is holding a round fruit (no coconut!), showing the typical features many "romanesque apes" have in the Auvergne: the open mouth, the wide open/staring eyes, the bald head - and the formation of wrinkles at the throat.

Mozac Abbey is one of the oldest monasteries in the Auvergne, dating back into Merovingian times. A legend tells that it was founded by Calminius (later Saint Calmin). He must have been pretty important and well off, as his name is connected to the foundations of three abbeys. He introduced the benedictian rules to the area, and brought (from Rome)a relic of Saint Peter and (from Agen) a relic of Saint Caprasius to Mozac. He got buried in the crypt of this church together with his wife Saint Namadie. Within the 9th century relics of Saint Austremonius, the first bishop of Clermont were transferred to Mozac, so already before Santiago de Compostella was on the map, this was a place of pilgrimage. In 1095 Mozac abbey got affiliated to Cluny, but was important enough, to have Hugue of Semur, nephew of Hugue of Cluny here as abbot. He was followed by Eustachius, brother of Petrus Venerabilis. Three churches could be traced here by archeologists, what can be seen today is "Mozac 3", a great church built within the first half of the 12th century. As most of "Mozac 3" got destroyed by a number earthquakes between 1437 and 1490. Actually only ruins can be seen. Apses, choir, ambulatory, radial chapels, transept and clerestorys were beyond repair, when the early reconstruction started - in gothic style. Most pillars and capitals of "Mozac 3" are still in place (in situ). Some / Most of the carvings here are so "perfect", that they seem to be much younger, even baroque, but all are - 12th century - romanesque. - This is the second ape to be seen in this church, while the first one presented a fruit, this one is on a rope. It is the type known in French as "singe cordé". This ape does not have the common open mouth, but the wrinkles, that are so typical.

Notre-Dame-du-Mont-Cornadore erected on the Mont-Cornadore over the tomb of Saint Nectaire, a scholar of missionary Saint Austremonius of Clermont, the first bishop of the Auvergne. Not much is known of the very early days here. 800 years after the death of Saint Nectaire, monks from the abbey La Chaise-Dieu settled and founding a priory here , after an estate was ceded to the abbey by William VII of Auvergne, called "The Young" (his uncle was "William the Old"). This must have taken place before 1169. Two Papal bulls deal with the properties of La Chaise-Dieu, the second one from 1178 lists Saint-Nectaire. It is not known, who built this church, nor who funded the construction. Maybe William VII or the abbey La Chaise-Dieu or mysterious Ranulfo, whose name can be seen on one of the capitals? The historians only agree, that this church was erected within the second half of the 12th century in a short period of time. Badly damaged during the French Revolution, the church got restaurated during the 19th century. This work is still disputed for not being "faithful" to the original, as some arcades (mainly outside) were added at that time. Most of capitals in the nave are not bible-related, like the pillarheads on the choir. This icon (man/rope/ape) is typical for the area. The French call this "singe cordé". I have learned, that within the Auvergne are about 20 (!) similar carvings. Here is one of them. The ape and the "owner" depicted in the typical posture. The ape has like most of his animal-collegues these large wrinkels all around his neck. They may have been caused by the rope.

Notre-Dame-du-Mont-Cornadore erected on the Mont-Cornadore over the tomb of Saint Nectaire, a scholar of missionary Saint Austremonius of Clermont, the first bishop of the Auvergne. Not much is known of the very early days here. 800 years after the death of Saint Nectaire, monks from the abbey La Chaise-Dieu settled and founding a priory here , after an estate was ceded to the abbey by William VII of Auvergne, called "The Young" (his uncle was "William the Old"). This must have taken place before 1169. Two Papal bulls deal with the properties of La Chaise-Dieu, the second one from 1178 lists Saint-Nectaire. It is not known, who built this church, nor who funded the construction. Maybe William VII or the abbey La Chaise-Dieu or mysterious Ranulfo, whose name can be seen on one of the capitals? The historians only agree, that this church was erected within the second half of the 12th century in a short period of time. Badly damaged during the French Revolution, the church got restaurated during the 19th century. This work is still disputed for not being "faithful" to the original, as some arcades (mainly outside) were added at that time. Most of capitals in the nave are not bible-related, like the pillarheads on the choir. The same capital, as seen before. The icon (man/rope/ape) is typical for this area, the French call this "singe cordé". Sorry for the blurry photo.

The original construction of the parish church Saint-André in Besse-et-Saint-Anastaise (formerly known as "Besse-en-Chandesse") dates back to the 12th, but the church underwent lots renovations over the centuries. So by now it is an interesting mixture of romanesque and gothic elements. The parish church Saint-André is known for the romanesque carvings. The carvings here differ very much in workmanship and artistic creativity. Here is the ape/rope/man-icon again, that can be found so often in he Auvergne, that in French language ist is called "singe cordé". While the apes in other churches (Saint-Nectaire, Droiturier, Mozac, Clermont-Ferrand..) where carved mostly more elegant so that the animal could display at least strength, the carving here is very rough - and the ape is nothing but a tortured creature. I´m sure one day PETA will use this!

The original construction of the parish church Saint-André in Besse-et-Saint-Anastaise (formerly known as "Besse-en-Chandesse") dates back to the 12th, but the church underwent lots renovations over the centuries. So by now it is an interesting mixture of romanesque and gothic elements. The parish church Saint-André is known for the romanesque carvings. The carvings here differ very much in workmanship and artistic creativity. Here is the ape/rope/man-icon again, that can be found so often in he Auvergne, that in French language ist is called "singe cordé". While the apes in other churches (Saint-Nectaire, Droiturier, Mozac, Clermont-Ferrand..) where carved mostly more elegant so that the animal could display at least strength, the carving here is very rough - and the ape is nothing but a tortured creature. I´m sure one day PETA will use this! At this more detailled shot, it is clear, that the man, holding the ape, is a real giant. Sofar the men doing his job were standing upright an so had the same height as the ape. This guy is on his knee- and still has that height. He is holds the arm of the animal, but that part of the capital is obviously lost.

The original construction of the parish church Saint-André in Besse-et-Saint-Anastaise (formerly known as "Besse-en-Chandesse") dates back to the 12th, but the church underwent lots renovations over the centuries. So by now it is an interesting mixture of romanesque and gothic elements. The parish church Saint-André is known for the romanesque carvings. The carvings here differ very much in workmanship and artistic creativity. Here is the ape/rope/man-icon again, that can be found so often in he Auvergne, that in French language it is called "singe cordé". While the apes in other churches (Saint-Nectaire, Droiturier, Mozac, Clermont-Ferrand..) where carved mostly more elegant so that the animal could display at least strength, the carving here is very rough - and the ape is nothing but a tortured creature. I´m sure one day PETA will use this! In all other churches, quoted above, there are man, the ape and the rope. Here is a man, leading the ape with a rope - and another person to the left. Unfortunately the face of the second person is damaged, but we can still see the hairdo. The person is barfoot and does not have the impressing height of the man on the right. I have the impression, that this person is a woman, maybe even the wife of the bearded guy. As soon, as he shows the ape to the audience it is "cap in hand time" for her, as then she will walk around, collecting tips. She already has the "cap" in both hands and soon hopefully the cap will be filled with coins. If this is right, this carving is a snapshot, depicting a small, family run travelling circus. First time seen here is the person behind the scene", the collector of the tips is a barefoot woman.