The Magi

Notre Dame, the parish church of the small town of Attigny, dates back to the 12th century was built, where a merovingian chapel, placed in the center of a large merovingian necropolis, stood before. It is proven, that Notre Dame in 1184 existed in dependence of the Benedictian monastery (4kms north). The structure seen today was altered rebuilt and renovated many times. Notre Dame is known for its frescoes. In 1421 Renaud de Montléon, squire of the noble Seigneurs de Boismorand, bequeathed by last will, that a chapel should be erected here. This chapel, dedicated to Sainte-Catherine, was built and all the walls were covered with frescoes between 1430 and 1490. Seen here in the center is the "Adoration of the Magi". Left of them are the "Angels and Shepherds" and to the right the "Massacre of the Innocents". Below is the Flagellation of Christ - and above three knights meeting three devils. Many churches in the valley of the Gartempe river are decorated with murals. Tourists may follow "Circuit Vallée des Fresques".

This church belonged to a large "Maison Dieu" ensemble, that was founded as a hospital in the 11th century by Robert II of France (aka "Robert the Pious"), the son of Hugo Capet. This hospital, run by monks, provided food and shelter for the pilgrims and the sick. Though the hospital, that as well was a convent, got severely damaged over the centuries, it always got rebuilt. Today the buildings are renovated and house the local retirement home. This 12th century frieze is placed very high on Saint-Larent-and-Saint-Vincent´s tower, but the position did not save it. Some iconoclastic vandals must have taken lots of effort to climb up and vandalize the frieze. This may have happened during the Wars of Religion or just after the French Revolution. Seen is the Nativity from the Annunciation to the flight to Egypt. Here is a detailled frame. The "Adoration of the Magi", again (see previous upload) Jesus is lost, but the cross-nimbus is still in place.

Saillac, a small village south of Collonges-la-Rouge, has a remarkable parish church. Saint Jean Baptist was originally built within the 12th century. Though the church got fortified later, it suffered a lot of damage during the Wars of Religion and the French Revolution. What can be seen today is the result of major renovations carried out during the 19th and 20th century. The polychrome tympanum survived the times, well, maybe the colours have been repainted. The Adoration of the Magi, the horses one of the Magi´s attributes wait to the left. Joseph (to the right) is barefoot. On the lintel are two giant dragons. The left (pale) one is just devouring a sinner, while a saint (nimbus) fights the right one. He pushes a knife/sword into the mouth of the beast - that has a human head.

Raoul de Bourges (aka "Saint Raoul"), archbishop of Bourges, son of the Count of Turenne founded an abbey on the banks of the Dordogne river in the 9th century with the help of monks from Solignac, where Raoul had started his clerical career. After feudal quarrels, the abbey Saint-Pierre joined the Cluniac movement in 1076 and soon after the erection of this church started. It was completed already mid 12th century. Though not situated at the busy pilgrim routes (eg "Via Podensis" runs about 60kms south) a large, typical "pilgrim church" was created here. It may well been, that the relics, that were on display here (Saint-Prime, Saint-Félicien, Sainte-Félicité) and the proximity to Rocamador (30kms southwest) motivated many pilgrims to do a detour. The abbey slipped into difficult times, when the number of pilgrims shrunk and feudal claims emerged again. The abbey and the city of Beaulieu suffered of the Wars of Religion. The Huguenots took over Beaulieu in 1569 and the monks had to flee. After the "Ligue Catholique" had reconquered the place, the monks returned and soon after the convent joined the Congregation of Saint Maur. The abbey existed upto the French revolution, when the last 6 monks had to leave. The abbey buildings got sold and demolished, while the church was taken over by the parish. The structure was in a ruined state at that time. The nave partly collapsed in 1808, but a difficult renovation undertaken end of the 19th century finally saved the church. The church has a little "tresor", behind iron bars, where precious objects are on display. Here is a medieval reliquary. It is very similar to a reliquary that I had seen in Huesca (Spain) only some days ago. The Magi can often be found along the "chemins" or "caminos". The Magi, who followed the Star of Bethlehem, while the pilgrims headed to Santiago de CompoSTELLA. Sorry for the blurry photo!

The "Catedral de Santa Maria" in Huesca got erected over 300 years. The building started end of the 13th century in gothic style, replacing a mosque that had served as a church, since Huesca was conquered in 1096 by Christian troops led by Peter I of Aragon. The diocesan museum, that is hosted inside the cathedral displays an extraordenary collection of medieval art, including some Romanesque reliquaries. Here are the Magi on their way to Bethlehem, a detail of the reliquary just seen on the previous upload. They seem to pass through a thicket of intertwining vines, but do have the time to wave at the onlookers. The Magi, following the Star of Bethlehem, were "role models" for the pilgrims following the camino on the way to Santiago de CompoSTELA.

A Benedictian monastery, with strong ties to Cluny, existed here in 958, after the Reconquista had reconquered the area about 50 years earlier. There are hints, that a convent may have been here already in Visigothic times. The monastery offered a "hopital" to the pilgrims already in 1054, when nearby Estrella was not even founded. The large church was erected in a Basilica-style within the 12th and 13th century on a the floorplan of a "Latin Cross". The Magi are approaching Bethlehem. Mary is seated on a throne to the right, holding the child and obviously waiting for the visitors. Next to her is the Star of Bethlehem.

The area around the modern Altamura (pop 70.000) was inhabited in early times. There are Bronze Age tumuli and between the 6th and the 3rd century BC a massive line of megalithic walls was erected. This (later Roman) city was inhabited until the 10th century when it was reportedly looted by Saracens. A couple of centuries after Altamura was reportedly looted by the Saracens, it started to be inhabited again as Emperor Frederick II refounded the city (1232) and ordered the construction of the large Altamura Cathedral, which became one of the most venerated sanctuaries in Apulia. Altamura was ruled by various feudal families, including the Orsini del Balzo and the Farnese (1538–1734), the latter responsible for the construction of numerous palaces and churches. In the past, Altamura also had a large castle, whose construction dated back to the 11th-13th century, which has been completely demolished. Altamura Cathedral (Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta) was founded by Emperor Frederick II in 1232. In 1248, under pressure from Frederick, Pope Innocent IV declared Altamura exempt from the jurisdiction of the bishop of Bari, making it a "palatine church", that is the equivalent of a palace chapel. After heavy damage caused by an earthquake in 1316, it was renovated by Robert of Anjou. Major changes were made to the cathedral in 1534, including switching the front and back around! The cathedral's main facade originally faced west but it now faces east. The (breathtaking) attraction of Altamura Cathedral is its main portal, which has been dated to the 14th and 15th centuries. It is Gothic, but in an unusual local style with Byzantine and strong Romanesque influences. I would even see this as "Romanesque/Gothic". It is remarkable for its wealth of details and a large number of biblical scenes. The Magi on their way following the Star of Bethlehem, pass the shepherds. The Magis wear crowns, being kings. Older icons of the Magi have them wearing phrygian hats, being Magi.

The foundation stone of the Cologne Cathedral (Kölner Dom) was laid on 15 August 1248. The eastern arm was completed and got consecrated in 1322. In 1473 the works came to a halt, leaving the south tower complete up to the belfry level and crowned with a huge crane for the next 400 years. After the original plans for the façade had been found in Darmstadt and Paris 1814/1816 it was decided to complete the cathedral. Two thirds of the costs were raised by civic efforts, while the remaining costs were covered by the Prussian state. The state saw this as a way to improve its relations with the large number of Catholic subjects it had gained in 1815, when the Catholic Rhineland was added to the Protestant Prussian Kingdom. In 1842 Frederick William IV of Prussia and Johannes von Geissel, later archbishop of Cologne, laid the foundation stone for the completion. In 1880, 632 years after construction had begun, the Cologne Cathedral was completed. The celebration was attended by Emperor Wilhelm I. The design of Cologne Cathedral was based quite closely on that of Amiens Cathedral. As it is a Gothic cathedral, the plan is in the shape of a Latin Cross with two aisles on either side. The window surface area is about 10.000m², About 1.500m² of these are medieval. One of the windows, named the "Dreikönigenfenster"("The Magi window"), was created around 1330. Depicted here is the Adoration of the Magi. The eldest king kneels in front of the Virgin and Child holding out a goblet filled with gold coins while the other two kings stand to the right and left of the image. There are many images of the Magi here, as Rainald von Dassel, who was Archbishop of Cologne and a close adviser the Hohenstaufen emperor Frederick Barbarossa, brought the bones of the Three Magi with him to Cologne in 1164 as loot from Milan and as a gift of Barbarossa. The relics are in a golden shrine in the Cologne Cathedral. ------------- www.koelner-dom.de/index.php?id=home&L=1

Milan is the city capital of the Lombardy and the second most populous city in Italy after Rome. Known during Roman times as "Mediolanum" it was the place, where in 313 Constantine I and Licinius met and "signed" the "Edict of Milan", giving Christianity a legal status within the Roman empire. At the end of the Roman empire Milan was besieged by the Visigoths in 402, looted by the Huns in 452, and taken by the Ostrogoths in 539. Only 30 years later is belonged to the Kingdom of the Lombards, until in 774 Charlemagne defeated the Langobards and added Milan to the Carolingian empire. During Barbarossa´s (Frederik I) "Italian Campaigns" Milan was taken and destroyed to a great extent. Only a few large structures survived the fury. One of them was the Basilica di San Lorenzo (see previous uploads). The Basilica di Sant'Eustorgio, located only about 500 ms south of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, existed already since centuries at that time, as it was founded in the 4th century. The name refers to Eustorgius I, the bishop of Milan (~350). It is attributed to Eustorgius to have translated the relics of the Magi to the city from Constantinople in 344, a present of Roman Emperor Constantius II (337-361). This legend came up in the 12th century, when the "new" Basilica di Sant'Eustorgio was erected in Romanesque style. When Milano was sacked by Frederick Barbarossa, Rainald von Dassel, who had just become Archbishop of Cologne and Archchancellor of Italy, entered the Basilica. In 1164 he brought the bones of the Magi with him to Cologne as loot from Milan and as a gift of Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. Since then the relics are in the Cologne Cathedral, where they are kept in the "Shrine of the Three Kings". Of course the Magi were never forgotten in Milan and in 1903 some fragments of the holy bones were sent back from Cologne. Here the Magi are seen in front of Herod´s throne (right), then the icon of the "Sleeping Magi" can be seen on the left. The Magi are not sleeping in a bed, but sitting on chairs. The Adoration is in the center - under ox, ass and an orchestra of angels. The altar is from 1347, attributed Jacopino da Tradate.

Milan is the city capital of the Lombardy and the second most populous city in Italy after Rome. Known during Roman times as "Mediolanum" it was the place, where in 313 Constantine I and Licinius met and "signed" the "Edict of Milan", giving Christianity a legal status within the Roman empire. At the end of the Roman empire Milan was besieged by the Visigoths in 402, looted by the Huns in 452, and taken by the Ostrogoths in 539. Only 30 years later is belonged to the Kingdom of the Lombards, until in 774 Charlemagne defeated the Langobards and added Milan to the Carolingian empire. During Barbarossa´s (Frederik I) "Italian Campaigns" Milan was taken and destroyed to a great extent. Only a few large structures survived the fury. One of them was the Basilica di San Lorenzo (see previous uploads). The Basilica di Sant'Eustorgio, located only about 500 ms south of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, existed already since centuries at that time, as it was founded in the 4th century. The name refers to Eustorgius I, the bishop of Milan (~350). It is attributed to Eustorgius to have translated the relics of the Magi to the city from Constantinople in 344, a present of Roman Emperor Constantius II (337-361). This legend came up in the 12th century, when the "new" Basilica di Sant'Eustorgio was erected in Romanesque style. When Milano was sacked by Frederick Barbarossa, the relics of the Magi were appropriated and subsequently taken to Cologne by his close advisor Rainald of Dassel, Archbishop of Cologne. Actually the relics are still in the Cologne Cathedral, where the are kept in the "Shrine of the Three Kings". Some fragments of the holy bones were sent back from Cologne to Milano in 1903. Milano had been a center of pilgrimage over a long time, but since 1164 the relics of the Magi attracted a stream of pilgrims to Cologne, what was very important for that city. From the 13th century the church was the main Milanese seat of the Dominican Order, who promoted its rebuilding - and radically altered it with the construction of the south transept, the main crossings and within the 15th century by adding chapels (for noble families). The alterations of the 17th and 18th century were elimimnated by the restyling work of the 19th century "recreating" the original Lombard Romanesque forms. A huge sarcophagus was the "home" of the Magi´s relics upto the day, when Rainald von Dassel, who had just become Archbishop of Cologne and Archchancellor of Italy, entered the Basilica. In 1164 he brought the bones of the Magi with him to Cologne as loot from Milan and as a gift of Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. Here is the inscription on the sarcophagus.

Milan is the city capital of the Lombardy and the second most populous city in Italy after Rome. Known during Roman times as "Mediolanum" it was the place, where in 313 Constantine I and Licinius met and "signed" the "Edict of Milan", giving Christianity a legal status within the Roman empire. At the end of the Roman empire Milan was besieged by the Visigoths in 402, looted by the Huns in 452, and taken by the Ostrogoths in 539. Only 30 years later is belonged to the Kingdom of the Lombards, until in 774 Charlemagne defeated the Langobards and added Milan to the Carolingian empire. During Barbarossa´s (Frederik I) "Italian Campaigns" Milan was taken and destroyed to a great extent. Only a few large structures survived the fury. One of them was the Basilica di San Lorenzo (see previous uploads). The Basilica di Sant'Eustorgio, located only about 500 ms south of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, existed already since centuries at that time, as it was founded in the 4th century. The name refers to Eustorgius I, the bishop of Milan (~350). It is attributed to Eustorgius to have translated the relics of the Magi to the city from Constantinople in 344, a present of Roman Emperor Constantius II (337-361). This legend came up in the 12th century, when the "new" Basilica di Sant'Eustorgio was erected in Romanesque style. When Milano was sacked by Frederick Barbarossa, the relics of the Magi were appropriated and subsequently taken to Cologne by his close advisor Rainald of Dassel, Archbishop of Cologne. Actually the relics are still in the Cologne Cathedral, where the are kept in the "Shrine of the Three Kings". Some fragments of the holy bones were sent back from Cologne to Milano in 1903. Milano had been a center of pilgrimage over a long time, but since 1164 the relics of the Magi attracted a stream of pilgrims to Cologne, what was very important for that city. From the 13th century the church was the main Milanese seat of the Dominican Order, who promoted its rebuilding - and radically altered it with the construction of the south transept, the main crossings and within the 15th century by adding chapels (for noble families). The alterations of the 17th and 18th century were elimimnated by the restyling work of the 19th century "recreating" the original Lombard Romanesque forms. Some of the old Romanesque capitals still exist. Seen here is probably the "translatio" of the Magi´s relics from Constantinople to Milano. I do not think this is the "translatio" from here to Cologne...

St. Lambert, parish church of the village of Pisweg, today a part of Gurk, was mentioned the first time in 1164. The round Karner (ossuary), next to the church, is dated to the 13th century. Now used as a war memorial, it is known for the frescoes under the dome. Here is a segment of the frescoe, painted around 1280, following the style of the frescoes in Gurk. The keystone has the "Agnus Dei". There are Adam and Eve in paradise just before they accept the apple. Below the Magi, arriving in Bethlehem. The Magi are often connected to pilgrimage. The Magi were the heroes of the medieval pilgrims. Pisweg may have been the last halt for many on the way to Saint Hemma´s tomb in Gurk, only about 5kms away. Time for the last rosary...

The "Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine" in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume (pop. ~ 14.000) is one of the largest and most important Gothic churches in of the Provence. - As I have uploaded many fotos taken here during previous visits, I will now add only a few.. - A small merovingien church existed here, until a sarcophagus was discovered inside the church´s crypt in 1279. The inscription made clear, that this was the tomb of Mary Magdalene. Her relics had been venerated in Vezeley since the early 11th century. This had made Vezelay Abbey to a major starting point for the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. According to a legend a monk named Baudillon brought the relics of Maria Magdalene from Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume to Vezelay. In 1058 Pope Stephen IX had confirmed the authenticity of the relics. It was undisputed that Maria Magdalena was one of the The "Three Marys", who had fled the Holy Land by a miraculous boat and landed at Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. After having worked as a sucessful missionar, she retired to a cave in the near mountains. She was buried in a crypt in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume, from where the relics had been transferred to Vezelay. The discovery of the tomb in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume in 1279 was a very clever "marketing" plot, that put the pilgrim business in Vezelay to a sudden end. Charles II of Anjou, King of Naples founded the Basilique Ste. Marie-Madeleine in 1295. Pope Boniface VIII placed it under the new order of Dominicans. The basilica was built over the crypt (where the tomb was found) but the works slowed down and the basilica never got completed. --- There are some old sarcophagi in the dim crypt. One of them is named "The Saint Innocent´s sarcophagus". It is dated to the 4th century. The frieze depicts (following teh information given here): "The Shepherd´s Adoration (they are wearing Phrygian caps). Jesus child, the ox, the donkey" I do not agree. I am pretty sure, that seen here is the Adoration of the Magi. There are (only) three persons, they hold presents, they may even wear Phrygian caps (I do not see them), but these caps are typical for the early icons of the Magi (see Ravenna). --- Sorry for the bad quality of this pic.

In 1927, what is pretty recent, the city "Borgo San Donnino" changed it´s name to "Fidenza", as in Roman times it was known as "Fidentia Julia". The city was named and the Duomo inside the walls was dedicated to San Donnino di Fidenza (aka "Domninus of Fidenza"), who was martyred nearby in 291. Sigeric the Serious, Archbishop of Canterbury, made the pilgrimage to Rome following the Via Francigena around 990. His contemporary records of this journey still exist (and are source for the modern guide books). He reached "Sce Domnine" after 36 days, what is pretty fast for more than 1000kms. The erection of the Cattedrale di San Donnino started in the 11th century, the first consecration took place in 1106, though the building process continued. From around 1200 on Master Benedetto Antelami and his workshop worked here, not only as Master masons. Antelami may as well be the architect of the facade. Frederick Barbarossa had entrusted "Borgo San Donnino" to the Pallavicino family of Piacenza. In 1268 - after a siege - the city was conquered by the troops of Parma, who looted and burnt down it completely. All houses got destroyed at that time just the Duomo was saved, but it was not completed at that time. The building process came to a stop - and was never continued. Written over the lower left scene is "IR ABEATO DOMNINO CORONATUR" what probably is "Imperator crowned by blessed Domninus". At first I saw the Magi and Herod to the right, but the inscription is "LICENCIA ACEPTA DEO SERVIREDECRE" - He received permission and decided to serve God. Two scenes refering to the life of San Donnino. The adoring Magi are easily seen above. All names are carved in above the scene. Joseph is dreaming. An angel whispers into his ear to go to Egypt. The Three Magi are strongly connected to pilgrimage since the early times. They can be found all along the old roads.

The Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo was built by Ostrogoth King Theodoric the Great as his palace chapel. The Arian church was originally dedicated in 504 AD to "Christ the Redeemer". After Byzantine troops had conquered Ravenna the basilica was converted into a Catholic church and reconsecrated in 561 AD. It was now dedicated to Saint Martin of Tours, a foe of Arianism. The dedication was changed again in the 9th century to St. Apollinare, first bishop of Ravenna, when the saint's relics were moved here. The interior measures 35 x 21 meters. The walls of the nave and clerestory are covered mosaics from the 6th century. Some of them date from the Arian period under King Theodoric the Great (496-526). There is a procession of the 22 virgin martyrs, led by the Magi. The Magi wear phrygian caps - and trousers! Today these would be probably be called leggings. A very unusual attire, as these clothes were not worn here, but they were known from "the east". So the trousers and the caps give a hint, from where the Three Magi came from. They really look trendy! Above the Magi are the names SCS BALTHASSAR + SCA MELCHIOR + SCS GASPAR

Santa Maria della Pieve was erected over the remains of an earlier church from the early 12th century on. It was was the stronghold of the city's struggle against its feudal bishops, who were building the nearby Cathedral and a palace, that was rather a castle just outside the city walls. It took about two centuries to complete Santa Maria della Pieve, and so there is a mix of Romanesque and Gothic styles. Most unusual is the the facade faces this small street (today "Corso Italia"), while the apse borders to the Piazza Grande. This carving is for sure connected to the "Nativity Scene" (previous upload). Virgin Mary seated on a throne, holding the child, during the adoration of the Magi. Above them an angel swings a censer. The names of the Magi are over the heads (CASPAR BALTASAR M(e)LCH(ior). Unfortunately I cannot read the other inscriptions. The Magi stand like Morris´ Daltons, when they meet Lucky Luke.

"San Bartolomeo in Pantano" was founded between 726 and 764 by the Lombard physician Gaiduald on swampy ground (= pantano) . A Benedictian convent was established here under the protection of the Marquises of Tuscany. In 1433 the Benedictines were replaced by Canons Regular. End of the 18th century the monastery was given to the Vallumbrosan Order, which remained here in 1810. Then church became a parish church. San Bartolomeo in Pantano of today was erected mid 12th century, commissioned by Abbot Buono in 1159. The facade, divided into five compartments with arches, is characteristic for the Pistoiese Romanesque style. The interior had been modified and altered a couple of times over the centuries, but a renovation undertaken in the 1950s broight back the Romanesque church. The pulpit, created by Guido da Como (aka Guido Bigarelli) got restaurated as well. One if the pulpit´s panels depicts the Adoration of the Magi. Here are the Magi in detail.

Sant'Andrea, believed to have been Pistoia´s ancient cathedral, is thought to date back to the period of Lombard domination. The present day church dates to the mid 12th century. Inside Sant'Andrea is this masterpiece of Giovanni Pisani, who created this great marble pulpit created 1298 - 1301. It is sometimes compared to the pulpits sculpted by Giovanni's father Nicola in the Baptistery of Pisa and the Duomo of Siena, which Giovanni had assisted with. The Pisanis´ works are often described as "proto-Renaissance". There is an inscription here, telling that the work was commissioned by Arnoldus and supervised by Andrea Vitelli and Tino di Vitale. It continues ".. Giovanni carved it (...), the son of Nicola, and blessed with higher skill.." The pulpit has a hexagonal plan with seven columns (one in the middle) and five parapets. Depicted on one of the parapets is in the left corner the "Dream of the Magi" - an angel tells them not to return to Jerusalem. Above them are their horses. Further right the "Adoration of the Magi". Two angels are watching, one is the "Star of Bethlehem". In the right corner is the dream of Joseph. He learns from the angel, that he now should migrate to Egypt with Mary and little Jesus. This dream starts the "Flight to Egypt".