The Magi

A first church may have existed around 1100. Some parts of a church erected around 1170 still exist. This was already dedicated to Saint Sulpitius the Pious ("Sulpice le Pieux"), chaplain on the court of Clotaire II, King of the Franks, and later Bishop of Bourges. As the church kept relics of Saint-Sulpice, this was a place for many pilgrims from the very beginning. The construction of the High Gothic church seen today began around 1260. It is for sure the work of an experienced architect, who even may have had ties to the royal court, as the building was financed by Louis IX (aka "Saint Louis") and the Bishopric of Paris. By promoting the pilgrimage to this church, Louis IX from the House of Capet tracked his roots over six centuries back to Merovingian Clotaire II. This church was built during the "siècle d’or de St. Louis", when the Kingdom of France was politically and economically at its height in Europe. Of course, such a "royal symbol" had to suffer in the centuries to come. In 1652, during the civil wars ("Fronde"), the church was set on fire. The roof burnt down and the vaultings over four bays collapsed. During the French Revolution the church was severely damaged and later converted into a "Temple of Reason". The church is known for the elegant, delicate High Gothic architecture and for the beautiful stained glass windows from the 13th century. Here are details. The Magi following the star - and meeting Herod in Jerusalem. Note the "fleurs-de-lis".

There have been five cathedrals on this site. One was destroyed by Visigothic troops mid of the 8th century. The successive cathedral was burnt down by Vikings ("Danes") in 858. The carolingian structure that was erected within the next decades was burnt down in 962 by troops led by Richard I of Normandy (aka "Richard the Fearless", "Richard Sans-Peur"). The rebuilding started again, but whatever was completed got destroyed by a fire, caused accidently, in 1020. The erection of a Romanesque cathedral started and most of the still existing crypt dates back to that building. In 1134, another fire damaged the town and large parts of the cathedral. The towers got repaired and rebuilt and the portal between them got created. Another blaze hit the town in June 1194. The cathedral was burnt down. Construction works started the same year. The western towers and the undamaged western portal ("Portail Royal") got integrated into the new building. The nave was already vaulted in 1220, the transept and the stained windows were completed in 1260. On 24 October 1260, only 66 years after the start of construction, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame was consecrated in the presence of Louis IX of France (aka "Saint Louis", "le Prudhomme"). Since Charles the Bald, Louis the Pious´ son, had given the "Sancta Camisia" to the cathedral in 876. Because of this "Veil of the Virgin" Chartres developed into a very important Marian pilgrimage center in medieval times. The cathedral has been fortunate in being spared the damage suffered by so many during the Wars of Religion, the Revolution and even WWII. In 1939, just before the German army invaded France, all medieval galls windows were removed, so the 176 medieval windows stayed intact. The oldest of these windows date back to ab 1150. They had been installed already the preceding cathedral, that burnt down. The most stained glass windows seen here were created between 1215 and 1240. Here are the Magi. There is no star visible, so they are discussing where to go.

Next to the Chapelle Notre-Dame de Tronoën is the large calvary, one of the landmarks of Brittany. Erected 1450/1470, this is the oldest of the great calvaries in Brittany. The rectangular base measures 4,5m x 3,5m. Under the crucifiction are two friezes, depicting themes from the New Testament. There are lots of scenes and details. The Magi have finally reached Bethlemen.

Caen was a settlement already in Roman times, but prospered, when William the Conqueror (aka "William the Bastard") built a castle here. When William married Matilda of Flanders (~ 1051) a papal ban was issued at the Council of Reims on the grounds of consanguinity. In 1059 Pope Nicholas awarded dispensation, after William and Matilda agreed to found to monasteries as penance. William founded the Abbey of Saint-Etienne (aka "Abbaye aux Hommes"), Matilda founded the Abbey Sainte-Trinité (aka "Abbaye aux Dames"). The erection of both abbeys started in Caen around 1060. The "Abbaye aux Hommes" was suppressed during the French Revolution, the Benedictine monks left. The church became a parish church after the revolution. The windows around the choir may be "reconstructed" copies of the medieval originals, as during the Battle of Normandy in WW2 an intense bombing campaign destroyed much of the city and severely damaged the cathedral. At that time many inhabitants had sought refuge here. Here is the Adoration of the Magi.

In Laon, placed on a ridge and overlooking the flat Picardy plain, St. Remi founded a bishopric in 487. Laon was a very important place in the kingdom of the Franks. A Carolingian cathedral, consecrated in 800 in the presence of Charlemagne, existed here. The Carolingian structure got replaced two centuries later by a Romanesque structure, consecrated in 1071. This cathedral was torched by the citizens during the Easter Insurrection on 25 April 1112. Bishop Waldric (aka "Gaudry"), who had served as Lord Chancellor and Lord Keeper of England, from 1103 to 1107 (and described as greedy and very violent) was killed during the uproar. The cathedral got repaired, but in the end demolished to give room for the present cathedral. The construction began about 1160. The nave was completed after 1205. The "Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon", towering over the town, is a wonderful, early example of the Gothic style that developed in Northern France. The tympanum of the left portal now more detailled. The Annunciation (left), the Nativity (center) and (right) the angel, telling the shepherds to walk to Bethlehem. Above is the Adoration of the Magi. Virgin Mary in the center is crowned and seated on a kind of throne. On the right side stands an angel and beside him is Saint Joseph, watching the scene.

Notre Dame was a Cluniac priory, with a huge church, which was erected between 1059-1107. It was consecrated, when Pope Paschal II visited the priory. The church is important for historians, as it was built parallel to Cluny III - and so has many similarities It once was 122 meters long and had a nave and four aisles. There were five portals (like in younger Bourges) and two western towers. One of these towers crashed down already in 1204. Mid of the 16th century the nave got severely damaged by fire and partly collapsed. The priory existed upto the French Revolution. Some parts of the ruined church got converted to residential houses, the structure since then serves as a parish church. In 1840 there were plans, to demolish the building, but Prosper Mérimée stepped in - and so saved it. This portal is inside of Notre Dame. Just as seen at the outside portal, the carving style is very dynamic. Christ in the mandorla holds a bible. I could not read the words in the banners, the two bearded saints (apostles?) hold. Below (left) the Magi adorating Virgin and Child. Mary is seated on a kind of throne, Joseph waiting behind. To the right is the "Presentation of Jesus at the Temple".

Romans had been here during Hadrian´s time and where they had erected a temple, a small church got built mid 10th century. This structure got rebuilt and enlarged already within the 11th/12th century. Looted and damaged a century later, it got rebuilt, altered, enlarged, extended and strongly fortified. Within the structure, some parts of the 12th century structure survived the times. Despite the many alterations undertaken, many of the Romanesque capitals can still be found in the nave and the choir. An accidental combination of bad light conditions and a personal hypoglycemia lead to blurry photos. Sorry! Here are the Magi adorating the child.

Saillac, a small village south of Collonges-la-Rouge, has a remarkable parish church. Saint Jean Baptist was originally built within the 12th century. Though the church got fortified later, it suffered a lot of damage during the Wars of Religion and the French Revolution. What can be seen today is the result of major renovations carried out during the 19th and 20th century. The polychrome tympanum survived the times, well, maybe the colours have been repainted. The Adoration of the Magi. Note the trumeau with twisted bands of hounds chasing a deer. The information given locally calls this style "languedocien". It is an interesting work, but it may be added later.

The "Catedral de Santa Maria" in Huesca got erected over 300 years. The building started end of the 13th century in gothic style, replacing a mosque that had served as a church, since Huesca was conquered in 1096 by Christian troops led by Peter I of Aragon. The diocesan museum, that is hosted inside the cathedral displays an extraordenary collection of medieval art, including some Romanesque reliquaries. Here are the Magi adorating Virgin and Child. The heads of the three horses on the very left are very typical. I will upload a second photo of this reliquary next.

Sos del Rey Católico is a quaint, historic town with a population of just over 600. Founded as "Sos" by Sancho I of Pamplona during the Reconquista in the early 10th century, the town changed its name to Sos del Rey Católico, after Ferdinand II of Aragon (aka "el Católico") was born here in 1452. The town is built on a mountaintop. You enter it by foot through the medieval gates, as the old walls, that surround the town still exist. The building of the "Iglesia de San Esteban" (= Saint Steven) started already mid of the 11th century, financed by Estefania de Foix, young widow of Garcia Sanchez III of Pamplona. The church got enlarged and altered over the next centuries many times. A narthex with gothic vaults was added within the 16th century to protect this Romanesque portal from the 12th century against the weather, but it did not protect against the vandalism of the following centuries. Here all heads are chipped off. Seen here is the "Adoration of the Magi". The Virgin is on the right, Jesus on her knees. I can see the Star of Bethlehem, but I have no idea, what the couple above the scene is doing. Angels swinging censers?

A Benedictian monastery, with strong ties to Cluny, existed here in 958, after the Reconquista had reconquered the area about 50 years earlier. There are hints, that a convent may have been here already in Visigothic times. The monastery offered a "hopital" to the pilgrims already in 1054, when nearby Estrella was not even founded. The large church was erected in a Basilica-style within the 12th and 13th century on a the floorplan of a "Latin Cross". The cloister was added to the complex between 1540 und 1586 and probably replaced an older one. This carving of the cloister depicts the Adoration of the Magi.

Estella was founded in 1090 by King Sancho Ramírez to encourage frankish merchants, to settle here and so support the pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostella. Recent excavations have proven, that early immigrants came from Le Puy ("Via Podensis") and Tour ("Via Turonensis"). The name "Estella" (= star) seems to be choosen by very experienced marketing specialists to start the business, as this refers to the Magi and as well to Charlemagne as he "saw in the heaven a pathway of stars" leading to Galicia (Pseudo Turpin). Aymeric Picaud, author the Codex Calixtinus, praises the food here and even mentions the "healthy water". Estella thrived, in 1354 there were six hospitals for pilgrims here. The "Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rúa" was mentioned already in 1174, in 1256 this was the largest church in Estella. The portal is a twin of the portal of the "Iglesia de San Román" in Cirauqui (14kms east) and a close nephew of the portal of the "Iglesia de Santiago" on Puente la Reina (20kms east). The centaur and the mermaid are a detail of the portal´s right side.

A small community of Canons in Chauvigny was founded by the Seigneurs de Chauvigny around 1025. Bishop Isembert I of Poitiers (+ 1047) was a Seigneur de Chauvigny, as well as his sucessor. The erection of the Collegiate church started end of the 11th century. It took about a century to complete the structure. The church was in the center of the heavily fortified stronghold, that has a long history of sieges, lootings, captures and recaptures. The "Cité Médiéval" was in ruins end of the 18th century. Mid 19th century the restauration process started. Since then the interior of Saint-Pierre has this distinctive colour-scheme of white and red. The church is known for the capitals, that are in deed extraordinary. The Adoration of the Magi Matthew 2:9-11 "After they had heard the king, they went on their way, and the star they had seen when it rose went ahead of them until it stopped over the place where the child was. When they saw the star, they were overjoyed. On coming to the house, they saw the child with his mother Mary, and they bowed down and worshiped him. Then they opened their treasures and presented him with gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh." Above the scene "GOFRIDUS MEFECIT", the signature of the medieval artist. Gofridus must have been a proud artist, otherwise he would not have signed his work on a such a prominent position.

The gothic tympanum still has some of the original colours. The adoration of the magi, wise men coming from the east. The left one is still talking to Herod, who sits on his throne in a very relaxed way, while the right one is already kneeling in Bethlehem, offering gold, mhyrr or incense.

...the crypt of the church had very nice and well preserved mural paintings. Here the Adoration of the Magi, while their servant (below) holds the horses....

Bitonto, today a city of a population of about 55000, was probably founded by Greek settlers. Traces of a city wall dating to the 5th and 4th century BC were found. Legends tell that the name Bitonto is connected to an Illyrian king named Botone. Later "Civitas Butuntinenses" became a self-governing Roman municipium, A Paleochristian basilica existed very early. During the 9th century, Bitonto successfully withstood a Saracen raid but got destroyed by Byzantine troops in 975. The Normans took over Apulia. In the 11th and 12th century. Under the rule of the Normans of Roger II of Sicily, William I of Sicily (aka William the Wicked) and William II of Sicily (aka William the Good), the city prospered and got new walls. In 1227, Bitonto was the scene of ex-communication of Frederick II accused by pope Gregory IX of having come to terms with the sultan al-Malik al-Kamil. - The Bitonto Cathedral, dedicated to San Valentino, was erected 1175/1200 in the centre of the city. The construction was probably influenced by the "Basilica of San Nicola" in Bari and was done in the typical "Apulian Romanesque" style. It is proven that the bishopric existed in 1089, though the crypt of the cathedral has remains of a 5th-century church. There are three portals. The central one has wonderful tympanum, seen here. The lintel has the "Annunciation", the "Visitation", the "Adoration of the Magi" and the "Presentation in the Temple". Note that the Magi have their names written. The scene above is interpreted as an "Anastasia", the "Harrowing of Hell". Jesus descended to hell to bring salvation to all of the righteous who had died since the beginning of the world

Around Aulnay are a couple of small church, that are often underestimated, as "Saint-Pierre d'Aulnay" is such overwhelming, that it shadows everything around. But the craftsmen, that created "Saint-Pierre d'Aulnay" did not only work there, but they also found jobs in the area. Notre Dame in Nuaillé-sur-Boutonne, located only 7 kms west of Aulnay, is an example of this. The small church was erected in the 12th century, same time as Aulnay. Depicted on the outer archivolt are the Magi, who were adored by all pilgrims at that time. The Magi had followed the Star of Bethlehem on their long journey to Bethlehem, just like the pilgrims following the "chemin" to Santiago. From Aulnay it was a walk of less than two hours to see the Magi here.

La Chaise-Dieu was founded in 1043 by Robert de Turlande. It was named "Casa Dei", from which La Chaise-Dieu developed. From the 11th to the 13th century, the abbey experienced rapid and significant development. When the founder died in 1067, already 300 monks lived here. In the Auvergne La Chaise-Dieu gained importance similar to that of the Burgundian Cluny Abbey. The abbey received many donations from noble families and administered 42 daughter monasteries. Popes who visited the abbey include Urban II, Calixt II, Alexander III. and Innocent II. In 1342, Pierre Roger, who had lived as a monk in La Chaise-Dieu, became Pope in Avignon under the name Clement VI. He financed a new building of the abbey church, in which he was finally buried. The building was completed in 1378 under the pontificate of Gregory XI, a nephew of Clement VI. Since 1516 La Chaise-Dieu, like most other French abbeys, became "in commendam" so the commendatory abbot drew the revenue of the monastery but without fulfilling the duties of the abbot or even residing at the monastery. Calvinist troops looted the abbey in August 1562. After most of the monastery buildings were destroyed by fire in 1695, they were rebuilt by the monks in the decades that followed. In 1786, Cardinal de Rohan, who was involved in the "Affair of the Diamond Necklace" was exiled to La Chaise-Dieu. While the abbey had 40 monks at that time, religious life ended at the beginning of the French Revolution. La Chaise-Dieu is known for the tapestries, once woven to embellish the monks´ choir. They were commissioned by Jacques de Saint-Nectaire and were woven by a Flemish workshop between 1501 and 1518. The collection includes 14 tapestries of which two are different and may have been ordered by the abbot for his personal use. The 12 other tapestries constitute a complete continuation of the Annunciation to the Last Judgment. An inventory prior to the Revolution mentions 18 tapestries, so four tapestries have therefore disappeared. The tapestries were only exhibited during major liturgical feasts. They were rolled up and kept during the troubles during the Wars of Religion and the Revolution. In 2013 the tapestries were removed. They got restored and returned to the abbey in July 2019. I was lucky to see them in August 2019. The "Adoration of the Magi". A detail of the "Nativity tapestry", see prev. upload.