Martin M. Miles' photos

Walking the different "chemins" and "caminos" since 2005 I have sometimes stayed in very basic (and often smelly) places. In Pons I had choosen to stay in the "Hôtel de Bordeaux", a hotel I knew from different previous visits (by car). The hotel is comfortable and the restaurant run by Cornelia Mueller is one of the best in the region. I have always appreciated the dishes, created by the chef Bruno Foucher. After the walk from Saintes the menue was a real treat. Daurade royale grillée www.hotel-de-bordeaux.com/

The first building of Pons, following the "Via Turonensis" is this tower and the large statue on top. The tower may have been erected once, to have an overlook over the plain - and so warn the town in case hostile troops or brigants approached. The door was open, so I took a look inside the tower. There was just a pile of rubbish.

A along the "chemin" are "Coquilles Saint-Jacques".

A murder scene next to the path! Who killed the friendly fox between the sunflowers?

Perfect weather for a long walk.

Saintes was a very important "city" in Roman times, named "Mediolanum". In Saintes are the remains of a large Roman amphitheatre and the triumphal "Arch of Germanicus". Just outside Saintes (Mediolanum), next to the Roman road to Bordeaux (Burdigala), that I walked, are the remains of the "Arènes de Thénac". Compared the the amphitheathre in Saintes this was probably a small "Off-Theater", though as well remains of "thermae" have been found nearby. As the Arènes de Thénac was used as a quarry for centuries only few of the large stones were found, when it was excavated in the 1990s.

Saintes was a very important "city" in Roman times, named "Mediolanum". In Saintes are the remains of a large Roman amphitheatre and the triumphal "Arch of Germanicus". Just outside Saintes (Mediolanum), next to the Roman road to Bordeaux (Burdigala), that I walked, are the remains of the "Arènes de Thénac". Compared the the amphitheathre in Saintes this was probably a small "Off-Theater", though as well remains of "thermae" have been found nearby.

I had reached Saintes in 2015 and now, a year later, continued to walk south, following the "Via Turonensis". Here is the first signpost just outside of Saintes.

I have to quote the menue: "Montgolfière de Cagouilles, flambées au cognac, crémée à l'ail et parfumé a l'estragon" "Cagouille" is a regional species of "escargots" ("helix pomatia"), that is often found in restaurants in Charente. But it may well be just another word for the "escargot".. The restaurant is located near a bridge over the Charente river. This was, where in 1242 during the "Saintonge-War" the Battle of Taillebourg began. The battle was fought between the troops of Louis IX and his brother Alphonse of Poitiers and Henry III of England and his follower Hugh X of Lusignan.

For the specific "style saintongue", that developed when the many Romanesque churches were erected within the 11th/12th century, a fine, soft stone was needed. Especially the carvers needed these lime stones for their intricate works. Many of the material used came from Crazannes, where the old quarries can still be seen. Some of the (meanwhile overgrown) old quarries now are "decorated" with modern scupltures created from the same stones.

The church was erected on an ancient Gallo-Roman site from the 11th century on. During the Wars of Religions the church got fortified. All around the high rising apse of Saint-Pierre in Chaniers are nicely carved corbels. Inside the apse are remains of frescoes, that may be created within the 13th century.

The church was erected on an ancient Gallo-Roman site from the 11th century on. During the Wars of Religions the church got fortified. All around the high rising apse of Saint-Pierre in Chaniers are nicely carved corbels. Here is one of them (a kind of double portrait). The sandstone used in the Saintongue is very soft, what made it easy for the carvers. Unfortunately - it weathers.

All around the high rising apse of Saint-Pierre in Chaniers are nicely carved corbels. The church was erected on an ancient Gallo-Roman site from the 11th century on. During the Wars of Religions the church got fortified.

Since the 12th century Saint-Sylvain towers on a promontory overlooking Saint-Sauvant, a village loctaed between Cognac and Saintes. The church, erected on a Latin-Cross-plan, is a typical example for the "style saintongue". All around the apse are lots of corbels. One of them depicts this ancestor of Mickey Mouse. As far as I know, Walt Disney, who claimed to be Mickey´s father, has been in France for about 10 months just after WWI. But has young Mr. Disney ever visited Saint-Sauvant?

Since the 12th century Saint-Sylvain towers on a promontory overlooking Saint-Sauvant, a village loctaed between Cognac and Saintes. The church, erected on a Latin-Cross-plan, is a typical example for the "style saintongue". There is one dolio-player over the portal - and another (seeh nere) along the apse.

Since the 12th century Saint-Sylvain towers on a promontory overlooking Saint-Sauvant, a village loctaed between Cognac and Saintes. The church, erected on a Latin-Cross-plan, is a typical example for the "style saintongue". Here is the main portal. Note the musician on the corbel, playing a dolio.

Cognac is the home of the world reknown French brandy, named after the town. In summer the town hosts, supported by hundreds of volunteers, the "Fête Du Cognac", a festival combining food, drinks - and music. I had seen "Caravan Palace" a year ago in Nice and a later again in Hamburg´s Mojo Club. Their performance on stage is great, even more energetic, than a year before. The music is a fast and powerful "electric swing" influenced by sounds from Django Reinhardt to Daft Punk. Frontwoman Zoé Colotis is a vibrant vocalist and a phantastic dancer. Members of Caravan Palace (beside Zoé) are Charles Delaporte (double bass), Hugues Payen (violin), Antoine Toustou (trombone), Arnaud Vial (guitar), Camille Chapelière (clarinet/sax.), Paul-Marie Barbier (vibraphone). The band is based in Paris - Cognac turned into Paris during their performance - the audience was thrilled - and danced... After the show... Zoe looks very happy and exhausted. This was a great performance! www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7JOa3dISg0

Cognac is the home of the world reknown French brandy, named after the town. In summer the town hosts, supported by hundreds of volunteers, the "Fête Du Cognac", a festival combining food, drinks - and music. I had seen "Caravan Palace" a year ago in Nice and a later again in Hamburg´s Mojo Club. Their performance on stage is great, even more energetic, than a year before. The music is a fast and powerful "electric swing" influenced by sounds from Django Reinhardt to Daft Punk. Frontwoman Zoé Colotis is a vibrant vocalist and a phantastic dancer. Members of Caravan Palace (beside Zoé) are Charles Delaporte (double bass), Hugues Payen (violin), Antoine Toustou (trombone), Arnaud Vial (guitar), Camille Chapelière (clarinet/sax.), Paul-Marie Barbier (vibraphone). The band is based in Paris - Cognac turned into Paris during their performance - the audience was thrilled - and danced... www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7JOa3dISg0