Parma - Battistero di San Giovanni

Parma, part of the Holy Roman Empire since Charlemagne´s times, was locally ruled by its bishops. During the long Investiture Controversy, Parma was (mostly) member of the Imperial party ("Ghibellini"). Two of Parma´s bishops even became antipopes: Càdalo as Honorius II and Guibert as Clement III.

An almost independent commune was created around 1140. After the Peace of Constance confirmed the Italian communes' rights of self-governance in 1183, quarrels with the neighbouring communes (eg Piacenza and Cremona) developed over the trading lines along the Po river.

When in 1248 Papist families ("Guelphs") gained control over the city, Emperor Frederick II (aka "Stupor Mundi") besieged Parma with no success.

This were the circumstances, when in 1196 the City Council of Parma commissioned the building of the Battistero di San Giovanni to Benedetto Antelami. In 1216 the second tier was completed. The work stopped under a temporary roof. It continued in 1249 and the octagon, located next to the cathedral, was finally completed in 1270.

The interior of the baptistery contains sixteen arches, forming alcoves each containing a painted scene. All these are 13th and 14th century frescoes. The dome is like an umbrella - sixteen rays come out of the center of the ceiling. Each corresponds to an arch below.

Here are three (of the sixteen) arches.

Seen from left to right:

NATIVITAS STE JOHANNIS BATISTE
The Birth of John the Baptist. His mother Elizabeth, reclined on the bed, watches the midwives performing "the first bath".

HIC BATISTATUR CHRIST
Christ´s baptism in the River Jordan. The painting is obviously influenced by older icons (Ravenna). Christ is nude - and the River Jordan is personalised.

HIC AMPUTAVIT CAPUT JOHANNIS
The death of John the Baptist.

Seen below is (left) Abramham´s sacrifie - and (right) two battle scenes, probably connected to the cruisades (camels).