Tacking down the RGB LED
Finished front side - The Spider is waiting
Cleaned front side
Demo - GREEN
Demo - RED
Demo - BLUE
Cleaned back side
LED warner in action
The battery mauling reading light
LED warner V2
LED warner V1
LED warner V1
My VW's reading light
My VW's reading light - inside
Dead RGB LED
A strange game...
More light hack
More light hack
Halloween 2010 preparations
Halloween 2010 preparations
Halloween 2010 preparations
Halloween 2010 preparations
My LAST perfboard prototype
My LAST perfboard prototype
My LAST perfboard prototype
XMAS lights - fighting back
5W LED vs. 15W CFL
Philips Econic - 5W LED bulb
Philips Econic - 5W LED bulb
Philips Econic - 5W LED bulb
Philips Econic - 5W LED bulb
Philips Econic - 5W LED bulb
Philips Econic - 5W LED bulb
RGB LED
IKEA SUNNAN - lamp corpus
IKEA SUNNAN - solar cell
IKEA SUNNAN - LED
New batch of boards
RGB LED Ring - V1.21
RGB LED Ring - V1.21 front side
Illuminated glass globe - inside
Illuminated glass globe - inside
Illuminated glass globe - base
Illuminated glass globe
RGB LED Ring - V1.21
RGB LED Ring - V1.21 PCB
RGB LED Ring - V1.21
RGB LED Ring - V1.21 PCB
RGB LED Ring - 2nd prototype
RGB LED Ring - 2nd prototype
LED operating light
Almost looks like a little car
Test ride under harsh conditions
Test ride under harsh conditions
Test ride under harsh conditions
Improvised mudguard
Pimped tail lights
Pimped tail lights
SMD RGB LED - failure mode
RGB LED Ring - assembled
RGB LED Ring - assembled
RGB LED Ring - Real PCBs
RGB LED Ring - Real PCBs
RGB LED Ring - Real PCBs
RGB LED Ring - Real PCBs
Keywords
Authorizations, license
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Finished RGB LED
The white plastic case melts very easily, almost instantly. The PCB on the other hand can withstand a lot of abuse using a 350°C (662°F) iron. Therefore it's OK to place the iron's tip directly onto the board and slide towards the pads. Always try to touch the pads on the PCB first.
Flux it up!
The LEDs really don't tolerate a lot of rework. Therefore make sure to get it right on the first try.
Use Sn60Pb40 solder and 240°C and they will survive.
Flux it up!
The LEDs really don't tolerate a lot of rework. Therefore make sure to get it right on the first try.
Use Sn60Pb40 solder and 240°C and they will survive.
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