.:madworm:.'s photos

Always use tweezers or you'll end up with "tombstones".

It'll take about 2-3 seconds until the solder will flow on this one. Lots of thermal mass.

For BLUE.

The white plastic case melts very easily, almost instantly. The PCB on the other hand can withstand a lot of abuse using a 350°C (662°F) iron. Therefore it's OK to place the iron's tip directly onto the board and slide towards the pads. Always try to touch the pads on the PCB first. Flux it up! Use Sn60Pb40 solder and 240°C and they will survive.

Flux the board, align the chip as good as you can and then tack it down. In this case it actually works to apply solder to the tip of the iron and then carry it over to the fluxed pads.

Nice and shiny. As you can see, I don't use RoHS compliant solder. Tried it and instantly hated it. I didn't want to spend a lot of money for a new soldering station, besides I couldn't get the one I wanted (Hakko).

For RED.

The white plastic case melts very easily, almost instantly. The PCB on the other hand can withstand a lot of abuse using a 350°C (662°F) iron. Therefore it's OK to place the iron's tip directly onto the board and slide towards the pads. Always try to touch the pads on the PCB first. Flux it up! The LEDs really don't tolerate a lot of rework. Therefore make sure to get it right on the first try. Use Sn60Pb40 solder and 240°C and they will survive.

Notice the small fillets.

If you get bridges: clean the tip, add flux to the board and drag the tip away from the part's body.

The plastic melts very easily. Keep the soldering time to an absolute minimum. Sn60Pb40 solder and 240°C works fine.

16V DC absolute maximum. Never apply more than 14V DC (regulated).

Needs to be cut to size.

For GREEN.