.:madworm:.'s photos

It's called 'LEDARE' - which means leader. 8.1W - 400lm

It's called 'LEDARE' - which means leader. 8.1W - 400lm. It is also available in an opaque version. The Innards are probably the same. Ikea doesn't sell any conventional light bulbs anymore - at least not in the EU. They have a variety of CFLs and LED lamps. I don't buy any CFLs anymore. I only continue to use the ones I have until they expire. Currently the LED lamp efficiency is not much better than that of CFLs, but there is no Mercury and they light up instantly. Color temperature of the warm-white LED lamps is pretty good from what I can see.

It's called 'LEDARE' - which means leader. 8.1W - 400lm

It's called 'LEDARE' - which means leader. 8.1W - 400lm

It's called 'LEDARE' - which means leader. 8.1W - 400lm

It works reasonably well, although in real-world applications the IR sensor would probably have to be placed elsewhere (i.e. add wires).

If there should be a reincarnation of this board at some point, it would probably have dedicated PWM drivers. To allow for further shrinkage, I will have to use a tinier AVR package and probably get a hot-air thingy.

I found this sort of design in a Microchip appnote. If it works well enough, I might consider it for future projects. It should be good for otherwise unused pins and doesn't cost anything extra. I think I will have to get a cap-meter. Jyetech has a pretty cheap kit that can measure from 1pF to 500µF. The pF-range should be useable for the sensor pads. That way I can do without guesswork when selecting the size of the storage capacitor. I'm planning to use a timer-based repetitive charge-transfer-method to measure pad capacitance, not the more simple RC-timed method.

It is gone! The WaveAce 224 has just been picked up by DHL and is on its way to LeCroy Switzerland.

It isn't even hot here. Room temperature is about 22°C and all case fans are operational. If I had a hot-air thingy I could try to reflow the RAM chips. But a replacement card is much cheaper than getting a cheap hot-air station. Maybe I will keep the card for experimenting with it later.

I wonder why it died today. It's not the first time I played Quake4... damn! I could easily insert a bit of copper/brass foil + thermal goop to restore proper contact. But without an hot-rair station there's no way to give the RAM-chips a treatment that might revive the card.

It isn't even hot here. Room temperature is about 22°C and all case fans are operational. If I had a hot-air thingy I could try to reflow the RAM chips. But a replacement card is much cheaper than getting a cheap hot-air station. Maybe I will keep the card for experimenting with it later.

It isn't even hot here. Room temperature is about 22°C and all case fans are operational. If I had a hot-air thingy I could try to reflow the RAM chips. But a replacement card is much cheaper than getting a cheap hot-air station. Maybe I will keep the card for experimenting with it later.

I wonder why it died today. It's not the first time I played Quake4... damn! I could easily insert a bit of copper/brass foil + thermal goop to restore proper contact. But without an hot-rair station there's no way to give the RAM-chips a treatment that might revive the card.

I wonder why it died today. It's not the first time I played Quake4... damn! I could easily insert a bit of copper/brass foil + thermal goop to restore proper contact. But without an hot-rair station there's no way to give the RAM-chips a treatment that might revive the card.

I wonder why it died today. It's not the first time I played Quake4... damn! I could easily insert a bit of copper/brass foil + thermal goop to restore proper contact. But without an hot-rair station there's no way to give the RAM-chips a treatment that might revive the card.

Showing noise - or the lack thereof - picked up by the probe.