Richard And Jo Demeester's photos

Jo taking in Kyzylkup, in the Kazakh region of Mangistau. For fairly obvious reasons, it is also called Tiramisù.

As depicted on Kazakhstan's 1000 tenge note.

When we first saw a figure weaving through the rocks and sand and vegetation, I thought it was an animal. Despite a strong confidence in the knowledge that none would be here, I even thought it might be an ostrich. Nur said with confidence that anyone cycling here must be a foreigner, or crazy, likely both. It turned out to be a Kazakh guy, who had been riding four days, with four or five more ahead. He didn't really have a plan, or much of a map for that matter. Just wending and winding through the landscape in search of views. He appreciated greatly our gifts of water and food, and he joined us for dinner and breakfast. He cycled Jordan end to end, and once bought a bike in Amsterdam and rode to Barcelona, frequently being the first Kazakh that many Europeans had met. A toast to our crazy Kazakh Russian friend, Dima.

Morning in Bozzhira, and while Ruston cooked breakfast we just spent some time appreciating the soft light striking the formations that surrounded us.

Chop vegetables; add some chicken; season and spice; screw the lid on tight; heat with the nearest flame throwing device. The driver, Ruston, got this fantastic pressure cooker from Afghanistan.

We spent the night on the floor of Bozzhira. A recess in the rockface was deemed an ideal spot for our tents, protected from the blustery gusts that seemed to build the whole afternoon.

A few kilometres from our first stop at Bozzhira. We crossed a narrow join from the surrounding plateau to an outcrop where we could absorb the splendour of this formation.

Bozzhira, Kazakhstan

Bozzhira in Mangistau, Kazakhstan. A multitude of gorgeous view points.

In the cave mosque of Beket Ata. Three small "rooms" where the Sufi, Beket Ata lived and taught. Pilgrims visit the cave where he is buried, and then come to this area to walk around the holy stick.

A place out of the wind was the number one criterion when choosing where to stop for lunch.

The land is dotted with depressions, many are quite a bit lower than sea level. Tuzbair is the biggest salt lake here.

Man Ata. Little seems to be known about the inhabitant of this grave, now a shrine, attributed with being a protector of travellers. He was a Zoroastrian teacher or priest, from before the 10th century, when Islam came to Mangistau. We have no idea what all the scripts are. But the last one had me most intrigued. The majority of vehicles seemed to stop on the way past, with the occupants spending a few minutes in prayer and meditation at Man Ata's grave.

All the camels around here are marked. A letter, a number, or a symbol. By this, all know who owns which camel. We did try some proper shubat, I.e not from a plastic bottle in a supermarket. Shubat is the fermented camel's milk. It was surprisingly good, and quite refreshing.

With erosion resembling columns, this area was made famous by an exiled Ukrainian artist and poet, Taras Shevchenko. He was sent here in the 1850s after writing some prose that was unflattering to the Russian government of the day.

From here it resembles a giant yurt. A popular photo spot.

In western Kazakhstan, Mangistau, Sherkala rises out of apparent nothingness.