Great Scaffoldings

Mantua (ital. Mantova) was a settlemt on the banks of River Mincio in Etruscan times. In Roman times veteran soldiers were placed here. About 70 BC the Roman poet Virgil (aka "Publius Vergilius Maro") was born nearby. After the end of the Roman Empire Mantua was invaded in turn by Goths, Byzantines, Longobards, and Franks. In the 11th century, Mantua became a possession of Boniface of Canossa, marquis of Tuscany. During the 12th century the course of the River Mincio was altered, creating lakes, to reinforce the city's natural protection. Three of these lakes still remains today. Under the House of Gonzaga, that ruled Mantua for more than three centuries (sometimes in a very despotic way), the city developed and became a center of Renaissance art. At the end of the long war of the Mantuan Succession the city was under Austrian rule. Mantua was part of the Napoleon's Kingdom of Italy, the city returned to Austria in 1814. A revolt against the Austrians was suppressed by the Austrian army in 1855. Finally in 1866 Mantua and the Lombardy were incorporated into the Kingdom of Italy. The "Rotonda di San Lorenzo" is the oldest structure in Mantua, going back to the 11th century. This was the building I was most interested in in Mantua. The rotunda was open for visitors, but, just like the neighbouring "Palazzo della Ragione", the church was hidden under a scaffolding. I learned from a construction worker, that within the next weeks, the renovation of the round church would be completed. So I had to return to Mantua - later again.

Mantua (ital. Mantova) was a settlemt on the banks of River Mincio in Etruscan times. In Roman times veteran soldiers were placed here. About 70 BC the Roman poet Virgil (aka "Publius Vergilius Maro") was born nearby. After the end of the Roman Empire Mantua was invaded in turn by Goths, Byzantines, Longobards, and Franks. In the 11th century, Mantua became a possession of Boniface of Canossa, marquis of Tuscany. During the 12th century the course of the River Mincio was altered, creating lakes, to reinforce the city's natural protection. Three of these lakes still remains today. Under the House of Gonzaga, that ruled Mantua for more than three centuries (sometimes in a very despotic way), the city developed and became a center of Renaissance art. At the end of the long war of the Mantuan Succession the city was under Austrian rule. Mantua was part of the Napoleon's Kingdom of Italy, the city returned to Austria in 1814. A revolt against the Austrians was suppressed by the Austrian army in 1855. Finally in 1866 Mantua and the Lombardy were incorporated into the Kingdom of Italy. The "Rotonda di San Lorenzo", here seen from the Piazza della Erbe, is the oldest structure in Mantua, going back to the 11th century. This was the building I was most interested in in Mantua. The rotunda was open for visitors, but, just like the neighbouring "Palazzo della Ragione", the church was hidden under a scaffolding. I learned from a construction worker, that within the next weeks, the renovation of the round church would be completed. So I had to return to Mantua - later again.

Florentina was established in Roman times as a settlement for veteran soldiers. The name had changed already, when young Charlemagne conquered the town in 774. It became part of the Duchy of Tuscany, with Lucca as capital. Around 1000 Margrave Hugo chose Florence as residency instead of Lucca. After the death of Matilda of Tuscany (1115), the Florentines formed a republic was ruled by a council. The town prospered, despite a constant fight between the different factions and noble families. In the 15th century, Florence was among the largest and wealthiest cities in Europe. This was, when the Medici family entered the political scene. As a dynasty of art loving, power hungry bankers, they made Florence the birthplace of the Renaissance. The Basilica di Santa Croce is the principal Franciscan church in Florence and the largest Franciscan church worldwide. The nave is 115 m long. Legends tell, that it was founded by St Francis himself, but proven is that the construction was begun outside the city walls in 1294. The floorplan is a Tau cross, what is a symbol of St Francis. The design was done by Arnolfo di Cambio, a very busy architect, as he worked as well at the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore and the Palazzo Vecchio. The church was consecrated in 1442 by Pope Eugene IV. On Nov. 4. 1966 the Arno River flooded Florence, including Santa Croce. The water reached a hight of 5 meters here, bringing mud, pollution and heating oil. The damage to buildings and works of art was really severe. It took decades to repair, what could be repaired. In 2013 the frescoes within the apse were hidden under scaffolding as they needed conservation and restoration. But in the late afternoon, when the specialists are gone, a a small group of tourists is allowed to climb up the scaffolding. Of course with a knowledgeable guide - and unfortunately without cameras. It is incredible to see the paintings from that small distance!

Florentina was established in Roman times as a settlement for veteran soldiers. The name had changed already, when young Charlemagne conquered the town in 774. It became part of the Duchy of Tuscany, with Lucca as capital. Around 1000 Margrave Hugo chose Florence as residency instead of Lucca. After the death of Matilda of Tuscany (1115), the Florentines formed a republic was ruled by a council. The town prospered, despite a constant fight between the different factions and noble families. In the 15th century, Florence was among the largest and wealthiest cities in Europe. This was, when the Medici family entered the political scene. As a dynasty of art loving, power hungry bankers, they made Florence the birthplace of the Renaissance. The Basilica di Santa Croce is the principal Franciscan church in Florence and the largest Franciscan church worldwide. The nave is 115 m long. Legends tell, that it was founded by St Francis himself, but proven is that the construction was begun outside the city walls in 1294. The floorplan is a Tau cross, what is a symbol of St Francis. The design was done by Arnolfo di Cambio, a very busy architect, as he worked as well at the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore and the Palazzo Vecchio. The church was consecrated in 1442 by Pope Eugene IV. Over the centuries it became popular for honoured Florentines to be buried or commemorated there. So the walls are line with funerary monuments. On Nov. 4. 1966 the Arno River flooded Florence, including Santa Croce. The water reached a hight of 5 meters here, bringing mud, pollution and heating oil. The damage to buildings and works of art was really severe. It took decades to repair, what could be repaired. The church is decorated with wonderful frescoes, some created by Giotto and Taddeo . Most were under renovation in March 2013, see the large scaffolding covering the apse.

The bell tower of Saint Nicholas would seem a bit oversized even if there would not be hidden under scaffolding. The tower was built between 1528 and 1547. Already the Romans had a temple, where the church is now. In 1076 the ownership of the existing church was transferred to a Benedictine convent in the Normandie. The erection of church of today may have started soon after, but it took a long time, to complete it. So Romanesque and Gothic elements can be found. The church has a large Romanesque crypt, dating to the very first building phase. But due to the restoration works, all doors were locked..

A church was present here since the late 4th century, later even a Carolingian cathedral existed , but all buildings burnt down during a Viking raid in the 9th century. Rollo, last of the raiders and (after a treaty with Charles III ("Charles the Simple") founder of what became the Normandy, was baptized here in 915 - and changed his name to Robert. The erection of the "St. Romain Tower" (left) began in the 1140, after the bishop had visited his friend Suger in Saint Denis, where the choir of the new cathedral got consecrated. The construction of the "Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen" began around 1180, the western facade, seen here partial, was created between 1370 and 1450. The "Buttertower" ("Tour de Beurre") was added around 1480. Soon after the first construction defects became obvious and the facade had to be reconstructed. Cathedrals need morr than just some TLC, so for the next years great parts of the facade will be hidden under scaffolding,

Legends tell, that Saint Junien has lived here as a hermit for 40 years. After Junien´s death (540) Bishop Roric from nearby Limoges had an oratorium built over the tomb. The oratorium soon was a place of pilgrimage and got enlarged over the next decades Gregory of Tours was impressed, when he visited the place in 593. This church got lost within the 9th century. Two centuries later a collegiate church got erected. It got consecrated by Raynaud, Bishop of Périgueux in 1100. The church got altered and enlarged a couple of times, but the collegiate lost the importance it had during the time of pilgrimage. It existed though upto the French Revolution, when it got looted. After that the church was used as "Temple of Reason", a prison and (like many churches) as a storage room for explosive saltpetre. The structure must have been in bad condition, as the crossing tower collapsed in 1816. It it got rebuilt from wood on a smaller scale. The collegiate church got restaurated in the second half of the 19th century, but in 1922 the wooden tower collapsed and caused lots of damage. Meanwhile the crossing tower is rebuilt but now the western facade needs some care - and is hidden behind a scaffolding.

I had not planned to visit Doussay, a small village in Vienne, but the lady I met in Airvault borrowed me her "Sculpture romane du Poitou" a valuable book, I do not own. There I found out, that Saint-Martin in Dourssay could be traced back to Carolingian times and had even pre-Romanesque elements. When I read about an "elephant-carving" in Doussay, I changed my schedule - and reached the church early morning only to see, that the church was a ruin, fenced in under reconstruction, surrounded by heaps of building material and heavy machinery. "No Entry" signs everywhere! I met one of the workers and asked him about this elephant. He shook his head, but led me to the local bar, opposite the church, where he told the audience, that this guy, holding an umbrella and a camera, was looking for an elephant in Dourssay. This caused an early morning amusement. I tried to explain - and all of a sudden, the situation changed. "Oui!", he remembered an elephant. From stone! All together now, we walked back, entered the church and found an elephant hidden behind the scaffolding. A wonderful elephant! A second one was just around the corner of the capital. After Poitiers, Aulnay, Surgères and Vouvant, Doussay was the fifth place with elephants I found in Poitou. All of them are "dressed" in the same way. I´ll be back in Doussay and take some better photos, after the renovations of Saint-Martin will be completed in a couple of years. MERCI BEAUCOUP!

Some of the fête´s visitors were allowed to enter the construction side. Standing inside the church made clear, that the 12th century church must have been in a really bad state before the reconstruction started. The church was built on a "Latin Cross" - and on the side were some capitals with foliage carvings - all hidden behind the scaffolding.