2014 Paris - Blois Walking

This tower is the last remaining structure of a church, that got demolished completely in October 1797. A church, named "Saint-Jacques-de-la-Boucherie" ("Saint James of the butchery"), existed here already around 1250. The patrons of the church were the butchers, who had their stalls in the nearby "Les Halles" market. This church over centuries was the meeting place in Paris for all pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostella. After having walked the Lemovicensis, the Tolosana and the Podiensis, I had decided to start again and follow the Via Turonensis from here. So I did, but it proved to be not a brillant idea. To walk with a backpack in Paris is absolutely no fun. Too many crowded roads, too many traffic lights, too many people and no "yellow arrows" ... So after half a day - I took the Metro southbound.

The way out of Paris was a nightmare. Actually, Paris did never end, one suburb followed the other. The "chemin" was not marked at all in the common way. When I asked people for directions, they had never heard about the "chemin" - and sent me back and forth. I spent about an hour in Saulx-les-Chartreux, just to find out, how to continue. This photo was taken, when I passed the back of "Notre-Dame de l’Assomption de la Très-Sainte-Vierge" a second time. At that time, I thought, I was on the right track... I was not!

Legends tell, that here, near a holy spring, Gallic druids met to worship a pagan wooden statue of a woman, when Dionysius of Paris (aka "Saint Denis") and his disciple Saint Yon christianized the area in the 3rd century. Dionysius discovered that the pagan idol in deed was a statue of the virgin ("virginia partitura"). This was a place of pilgrimage since very early times, being the oldest place of Marian devotion of Ile-de-France. Local nobility founded a convent in 1031 and added this as a priory to the Cluny-network around 1060. The convent went through very difficult times, but managed to exist up to the French Revolution. The property then got confiscated and was finally sold to a Swiss investor. The church, now serving the parish, was ruined. The old, unstable tower got demolished in 1794. During the early 19th century, the civil authorities warned people to enter the ruined church, that was ready for demolition. There were plans about replacing the ruin by a new, smaller building. Finally, after decades long discussions about financing, only parts of the church got demolished and the rebuilding process started in the second half of the century. To reach Longpont-sur-Orge I had to cross the very busy Route National 20 - and found out, that this road for sure once was the "chemin".

Legends tell, that here, near a holy spring, Gallic druids met to worship a pagan wooden statue of a woman, when Dionysius of Paris (aka "Saint Denis") and his disciple Saint Yon christianized the area in the 3rd century. Dionysius discovered that the pagan idol in deed was a statue of the virgin ("virginia partitura"). This was a place of pilgrimage since very early times, being the oldest place of Marian devotion of Ile-de-France. Local nobility founded a convent in 1031 and added this as a priory to the Cluny-network around 1060. The convent went through very difficult times, but managed to exist up to the French Revolution. The property then got confiscated and was finally sold to a Swiss investor. The church, now serving the parish, was ruined. The old, unstable tower got demolished in 1794. During the early 19th century, the civil authorities warned people to enter the ruined church, that was ready for demolition. There were plans about replacing the ruin by a new, smaller building. Finally, after decades long discussions about financing, only parts of the church got demolished and the rebuilding process started in the second half of the century. The (damaged) portal seen here is from 1220 - and for this is pretty "modern". The "Coronation of the Virgin", was created just a few decades after the tympanum of the cathedral in Senlis had introduced this icon. To reach Longpont-sur-Orge I had to cross the very busy Route National 20 - and found out, that this road was for sure once was the "chemin".

Legends tell, that here, near a holy spring, Gallic druids met to worship a pagan wooden statue of a woman, when Dionysius of Paris (aka "Saint Denis") and his disciple Saint Yon christianized the area in the 3rd century. Dionysius discovered that the pagan idol in deed was a statue of the virgin ("virginia partitura"). This was a place of pilgrimage since very early times, being the oldest place of Marian devotion of Ile-de-France. Local nobility founded a convent in 1031 and added this as a priory to the Cluny-network around 1060. The convent went through very difficult times, but managed to exist up to the French Revolution. The property then got confiscated and was finally sold to a Swiss investor. The church, now serving the parish, was ruined. The old, unstable tower got demolished in 1794. During the early 19th century, the civil authorities warned people to enter the ruined church, that was ready for demolition. There were plans about replacing the ruin by a new, smaller building. Finally, after decades long discussions about financing, only parts of the church got demolished and the rebuilding process started in the second half of the century. The nave upto the crossing dates to 1100/1130. The crossing and the apse were erected 1875/1878, replacing the ruined parts of the church. To reach Longpont-sur-Orge I had to cross the very busy Route National 20 - and found out, that this road for sure once was the "chemin".

In 1470, Louis Malet Graville, Seigneur of Chartres, commissioned to build this hall, to create a prosperous market here. The rectangular hall is about 35 meters long and 18 meters wide, it is one of the largest in the region. 48 old oak beams on sandstone-foundations hold up the roof. In 1820, the Duc Mouchy, descendant of the noble family, sold the hall to the city of Arpajon. Meanwhile the hall is well restorated and twice per week, here is the market.

The more and the longer I have travelled - the more I loved launderettes, especially, when I am walking. There is a relaxing hour to spend at least, waiting for the washing machine and listening to the dryer. It´s such a good feeling to know, that all socks, pants and shirts in the backpack have this fresh smell.

The more and the longer I have travelled - the more I loved launderettes, especially, when I am walking. There is a relaxing hour to spend at least, waiting for the washing machine and then listening to the dryer. It´s such a good feeling to know, that all socks, pants and shirts in the backpack have this fresh smell. I remember that there is a "clean machine" in Penny Lane. Here are some more clean machines.

A first church in Châtres, what was the name of the settlement in the early times, got replaced already in 1006. Later a priory was added. In 1265 a "Hotel-Dieu" existed here for the accommodation of travelers. During the Hundred Years War, the fortified town was besieged by King Edward III´s army. At that time the church, in which 800 refugees sought shelter, was burned leaving no survivors. The church got rebuilt, renovated, restorated and still serves the parish. Benjamin Franklin, politician, scientist, inventor, one of the "Founding Fathers of the United States", who lived as a diplomat in France 1776–1785, installed a lighting rod on this church in 1782.

An earlier church was ruined during the wars of the 14th and 15th century. Rebuilding started around 1500. The new church got dedicated to Thomas-Becket, what was a very strong political statement, as the area had severely suffered from the Hundred Years War. Thomas Becket had served as Lord Chancellor for Henry II of England (aka "Henry Curtmantle", "Henry FitzEmpress", "Henry Plantagenet") before he became Archbishop of Canterbury. Thomas Becket was murdered in 1170, after Henry II in a conflict with Becket had publicly asked "Will no one rid me of this turbulent priest?".

An earlier church was ruined during the wars of the 14th and 15th century. Rebuilding started around 1500. The new church got dedicated to Thomas-Becket, what was a very strong political statement, as the area had severely suffered from the Hundred Years War. Thomas Becket had served as Lord Chancellor for Henry II of England (aka "Henry Curtmantle", "Henry FitzEmpress", "Henry Plantagenet") before he became Archbishop of Canterbury. Thomas Becket was murdered in 1170, after Henry II in a conflict with Becket had publicly asked "Will no one rid me of this turbulent priest?". On the left side of this nave, behind thick security glass, is this small relief. It depicts the assassination of Thomas Becket.

From Paris to Boissy-sous-Saint-Yon I had walked over paved streets and roads. Over the complete distance I had heard the roaring noise of the RN20. Now, just south of Boissy-sous-Saint-Yon the first time, the trail was superbly marked (GR655ET) and led into a forest.

From Paris to Boissy-sous-Saint-Yon I had walked over paved streets and roads. Over the complete distance I had heard the roaring noise of the RN20. Just south of Boissy-sous-Saint-Yon the the trail led into a forest. I crossed a little ridge, and descended into a valley. Large boulders were all around.

From Paris to Boissy-sous-Saint-Yon I had walked over paved streets and roads. Now, after having entered the forest, even the "balisage" was perfect. Coming from Boissy-sous-Saint-Yon, I had to turn left to Saint-Sulpice-de-Favières.

I approached the village Saint-Sulpice-de-Favières. Stepping out of the forest I instantly stopped, as I was not prepared to find this Gothic church. At first I just saw the church - no other building. This really was a big surprise! Just a couple of days ago, I had seen the "Sainte Chapelle". Not moving on, but standing and staring for a couple of minutes, I felt a bit like Jean Louis Burckhardt, who discovered Petra in the desert. Meanwhile of course I know, that all good travel guides mention Saint-Sulpice.

I approached the village Saint-Sulpice-de-Favières. Stepping out of the forest I instantly stopped, as I was not prepared to find a wonderful Gothic church. At first I just saw the church - no other building. This really was a big surprise! Just a couple of days ago, I had seen the "Sainte Chapelle". This Gothic church was way to large and way to sophisticated for such a small village.

Such a small village - and such an imposing church! A first church may have existed around 1100. Some parts of a church erected around 1170 still exist. This was already dedicated to Saint Sulpitius the Pious ("Sulpice le Pieux"), chaplain on the court of Clotaire II, King of the Franks, and later Bishop of Bourges. As the church kept relics of Saint-Sulpice, this was a place for many pilgrims from the very beginning. The construction of the High Gothic church seen today began around 1260. It is for sure the work of an experienced architect, who even may have had ties to the royal court, as the building was financed by Louis IX (aka "Saint Louis") and the Bishopric of Paris. By promoting the pilgrimage to this church, Louis IX from the House of Capet tracked his roots over six centuries back to Merovingian Clotaire II. This church was built during the "siècle d’or de St. Louis", when the Kingdom of France was politically and economically at its height in Europe. Of course, such a "royal symbol" had to suffer in the centuries to come. In 1652, during the civil wars ("Fronde"), the church was set on fire. The roof burnt down and the vaultings over four bays collapsed. During the French Revolution the church was severely damaged and later converted into a "Temple of Reason". The vandals of the Revolution made a great effort, to destroy the western facade, but fortunately did not touch most of the stained glass windows.

A first church may have existed around 1100. Some parts of a church erected around 1170 still exist. This was already dedicated to Saint Sulpitius the Pious ("Sulpice le Pieux"), chaplain on the court of Clotaire II, King of the Franks, and later Bishop of Bourges. As the church kept relics of Saint-Sulpice, this was a place for many pilgrims from the very beginning. The construction of the High Gothic church seen today began around 1260. It is for sure the work of an experienced architect, who even may have had ties to the royal court, as the building was financed by Louis IX (aka "Saint Louis") and the Bishopric of Paris. By promoting the pilgrimage to this church, Louis IX from the House of Capet tracked his roots over six centuries back to Merovingian Clotaire II. This church was built during the "siècle d’or de St. Louis", when the Kingdom of France was politically and economically at its height in Europe. Of course, such a "royal symbol" had to suffer in the centuries to come. In 1652, during the civil wars ("Fronde"), the church was set on fire. The roof burnt down and the vaultings over four bays collapsed. During the French Revolution the church was severely damaged and later converted into a "Temple of Reason". The vandals of the Revolution made a great effort, to destroy the western facade. Seen here is the central tympanum (the other two are worse). Either the vandals only had a short ladder, as they only smashed the two lower tiers, or the top tier is the result of a 19th century restoration. This once was the "Last Judgement". What still can be seen is the "Mouth of Hell" (left). The "Weighing of the Souls" (center) and all other details are completely destroyed.