Poitou-Charentes - North

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of pilgrimage - and three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Saint-Hilaire de Melle was the church of a priory, a dependency of the important Benedictian abbey in Saint-Jean-d’Angély. It was built on the bank of the Beronne river. The eastern part (apse, the radiating chapels and transept) were built in the first half of the 12th century, while the nave and the western portals may be some decades younger.

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage to Santiago - and three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Saint-Hilaire de Melle was the church of a priory, a dependency of the important Benedictian abbey in Saint-Jean-d’Angély. It was built on the bank of the Beronne river. The eastern part (apse, the radiating chapels and transept) were built in the first half of the 12th century, while the nave and the western portals may be some decades younger.

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage- and three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Saint-Hilaire de Melle was the church of a priory, depending from the large Benedictian abbey in Saint-Jean-d’Angély. It was built on the banks of the Beronne river. The eastern part (apse, the radiating chapels and transept) were built in the first half of the 12th century, while the nave and the western portals may be some decades younger. This is the southern wall of the nave. There is an elaborate carved southern portal of which a small part can be seen from this pov.

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage- and three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Saint-Hilaire de Melle was the church of a priory, a dependency of the important Benedictian abbey in Saint-Jean-d’Angély. It was built on the bank of the Beronne river. The eastern part (apse, the radiating chapels and transept) were built in the first half of the 12th century, while the nave and the western portals may be some decades younger. The northern portal of Saint-Hilaire. While the archivolts are very mutilated and weathered, the equestrian statue above them is very complete. One of the horse´s legs and a foot of the horseman are lost, what is uncommon after centuries of wars and revolutions. Equestrian statues were not uncommon in the area, but what can be seen here, is the result of a reconstruction from 1872. A small person is sitting on the ground - and - though the horse´s leg is lost, the joint makes clear, that the hoof once was exactly over the head of the sitting guy. Who is the horseman? Most historians see Constantine the Great, triumphing over heathenism. This statue was placed here and was admired by many thousands of pilgrims on their way to Santiago. Some equestrian statues further south (eg Oloron St. Marie) are seen as St. Jaques ("Matamoro"), supporting the Reconquista, Constantine the Great defeating heathenism must be seen in the same historical context.

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage- and three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Saint-Hilaire de Melle was the church of a priory, a dependency of the important Benedictian abbey in Saint-Jean-d’Angély. It was built on the bank of the Beronne river. The eastern part (apse, the radiating chapels and transept) were built in the first half of the 12th century, while the nave and the western portals may be some decades younger. All around the eastern part of St. Hilaire, with the ambulatory and the radiating chapels, are many perfect corbels. These carvings may date from the renovations and reconstructions undertaken during the 19th century.

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage- and three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Saint-Hilaire de Melle was the church of a priory, a dependency of the important Benedictian abbey in Saint-Jean-d’Angély. It was built on the bank of the Beronne river. The eastern part were built in the first half of the 12th century, while the nave and the western portals may be some decades younger. A flight of stairs leads down to the western portal (seen here). The design of the facade is typical for the region.

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage- and three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Saint-Hilaire de Melle was the church of a priory, a dependency of the important Benedictian abbey in Saint-Jean-d’Angély. It was built on the bank of the Beronne river. The eastern part were built in the first half of the 12th century, while the nave and the western portals may be some decades younger. There are more than 200 carved capitals in- and outside this church. they are done by different carvers and of different qualities. This is from the exterior and it is the by far strangest of all. Here are two men. They share one head, but probably two faces. One leg of the right person is amputated. He uses a prothesis - in a way that makes it impossible to walk. One arm is connected to his shoulder, one hand grows out of his hip. This man faces the onlooker, so his chest is visible. The second person faces into the opposite direction, so his back is seen. He is holding an object with both hands. Conjoined twins can be found on carvings (eg Covet, Anzy-le-Duc) and as well medieval "wooden legs" (eg Colombiers, Saint-Papoul, Lescar), but this "combination" one is weird.

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage- and three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Saint-Hilaire de Melle was the church of a priory, a dependency of the important Benedictian abbey in Saint-Jean-d’Angély. It was built on the bank of the Beronne river. The eastern part were built in the first half of the 12th century, while the nave and the western portals may be some decades younger. There are more than 200 carved capitals alone in- and outside this church. They are done by different carvers or studios in a large variety of qualities. Here are corbels from the higher area of the western facade. Inbetween a hare equipped with antlers. A very uncommon creature, probably an ancestor of the legendary wolpertinger, an hybrid only rarely seen in old Bavarian guesthouses. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wolpertinger

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage- and three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Saint-Hilaire de Melle was the church of a priory, a dependency of the important Benedictian abbey in Saint-Jean-d’Angély. It was built on the bank of the Beronne river. The eastern part were built in the first half of the 12th century, while the nave and the western portals may be some decades younger. There are more than 200 carved capitals alone in- and outside this church. they are done by different carvers or studios in a large variety of qualities. Here are corbels from the higher area of the western facade. Inbetween a "floating" woman. The carving is a bit weathered, but the long, combed hair can still be seen.

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage- and three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Saint-Hilaire de Melle was the church of a priory, a dependency of the important Benedictian abbey in Saint-Jean-d’Angély. It was built on the bank of the Beronne river. The eastern part were built in the first half of the 12th century, while the nave and the western portals may be some decades younger. There are more than 200 carved capitals alone in- and outside this church. Having entered the church through the western portal, a flight of stairs leads down to the nave. The two different building phases can be seen from here. While the older (western) part has round arches, the younger arches of the nave are pointed.

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage- and three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Saint-Hilaire de Melle was the church of a priory, a dependency of the important Benedictian abbey in Saint-Jean-d’Angély. It was built on the bank of the Beronne river. The eastern part were built in the first half of the 12th century, while the nave and the western portals may be some decades younger. There are more than 200 carved capitals alone in- and outside this church. Standing in the choir, facing west. The transept crossing has round arches and dates to the early 12th century, the younger nave has pointed arches. The altar (white marble) belongs to a very disputed recent installation.

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage- and three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Saint-Hilaire de Melle was the church of a priory, a dependency of the important Benedictian abbey in Saint-Jean-d’Angély. It was built on the bank of the Beronne river. The eastern part were built in the first half of the 12th century, while the nave and the western portals may be some decades younger. While I was "exploring" the interior of the church, all of a sudden a very strange, loud, clicking noise started. Dozends of cyclists had entered and produced 1000s of clicks with their special cycling shoes. They were all participants of the 74th "Semaine fédérale internationale de cyclotourisme". sf2012.ffct.org/

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage- and three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Saint-Hilaire de Melle was the church of a priory, a dependency of the important Benedictian abbey in Saint-Jean-d’Angély. It was built on the bank of the Beronne river. The eastern part were built in the first half of the 12th century, while the nave and the western portals may be some decades younger. There are more than 200 carved capitals alone in- and outside this church, done by different carvers and studios over the long building process. While most capitals of the older/eastern part are decorated with foliage, some capitals of the nave depict "real life", like this one about the final stage of the hunt. The pack of hounds has cornered a boar. The hunter approaches the fight - and spears it.

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage- and three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Saint-Hilaire de Melle was the church of a priory, a dependency of the important Benedictian abbey in Saint-Jean-d’Angély. It was built on the bank of the Beronne river. The eastern part were built in the first half of the 12th century, while the nave and the western portals may be some decades younger. There are more than 200 carved capitals alone in- and outside this church, done by different carvers and studios over the long building process. While most capitals of the older/eastern part are decorated with foliage, some capitals of the nave depict "real life" (see previous upload) or mythical creatures like this centaur shooting a deer. The carver was not a genious, so the creatures are a bit clumsy, but nobody had seen a centaur at that time.

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage. Three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Melle must have been a large building site within the 12th century, with hundreds of construction worker and dozends of carvers. An oratory, dedicated to St. Peter, was existing here around 950 in the center of a Carolingian cementary. This humble chapel was dependent from the mighty Benedictine abbey of Saint-Maixent (25kms north). This small structure got extended and enlarged in two stages during the early 12th century. Choir and transept form the oldest existing part. The church was set on fire and defaced during the Wars of Religions. After the French Revolution this was the meeting place for the assemblies of the inhabitants. Prosper Mérimée initiated the restaurations undertaken from 1855 on.

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage. Three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Melle must have been a large building site within the 12th century, with hundreds of construction worker and dozends of carvers. An oratory, dedicated to St. Peter, was existing here around 950 in the center of a Carolingian cementary. This humble chapel was dependent from the mighty Benedictine abbey of Saint-Maixent (25kms north). This small structure got extended and enlarged in two stages during the early 12th century. The choir with the nicely decorated chapels and transept form the oldest existing part. The church was set on fire and defaced during the Wars of Religions. After the French Revolution this was the meeting place for the assemblies of the inhabitants. Prosper Mérimée initiated the restaurations undertaken from 1855 on.

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage. Three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Melle must have been a large building site within the 12th century, with hundreds of construction worker and dozends of carvers. An oratory, dedicated to St. Peter, was existing here around 950 in the center of a Carolingian cementary. This humble chapel was dependent from the mighty Benedictine abbey of Saint-Maixent (25kms north). This small structure got extended and enlarged in two stages during the early 12th century. The choir with the nicely decorated chapels and transept form the oldest existing part. The church was set on fire and defaced during the Wars of Religions. After the French Revolution this was the meeting place for the assemblies of the inhabitants. Prosper Mérimée initiated the restaurations undertaken from 1855 on. Saint-Pierre´s southern portal. It may well be, that the master builder, who designed the northern portal of Saint-Hilaire (1km south). worked here as well, as the two portals look like twins. The carver created perfect floral archivolts here, which still are in a good condition. The trio above the archivolts got mutilated by the fury of the Wars of Religions. The enthroned Jesus and the two flanking persons (Mary and John?) have all lost their heads. Just over the entrance, between the weathered corbels are fishes, centaurs - and a pig.

Melle was known already during Roman times, when silver and lead were mined here. The silver mines were exploited over hundreds of years, got forgotten and "rediscovered" in the 19th century. Today they are a tourist attraction. Melle was wealthy and the pilgrims, walking the Via Turonensis, passed through Melle on their way to Santiago, what brought even more money into town. Churches were erected during the heydays of the pilgrimage. Three (!) Romanesque churches can still be found here. Melle must have been a large building site within the 12th century, with hundreds of construction worker and dozends of carvers. An oratory, dedicated to St. Peter, was existing here around 950 in the center of a Carolingian cementary. This humble chapel was dependent from the mighty Benedictine abbey of Saint-Maixent (25kms north). This small structure got extended and enlarged in two stages during the early 12th century. The choir with the nicely decorated chapels and transept form the oldest existing part. The church was set on fire and defaced during the Wars of Religions. After the French Revolution this was the meeting place for the assemblies of the inhabitants. Prosper Mérimée initiated the restaurations undertaken from 1855 on. The stair to the gallery was not locked, so I could take the photo from this vantage point. Saint Pierre has a nave and two aisles. The arches are already pointed. There are no seats or benches, only a pulpit and a baroque altar. Sunlight floods in through the open door of the southern portal (previous upload).