2013 - Morlaàs - Puente la Reina Walking

For two weeks the weather had been fine and there was brilliant sunshine all over France. The night, before I started to continue the Via Tolosana, the weather changed. I heard thunder and heavy rain outside. Next morning it was cold wet and foggy, but I had to follow my schedule. The first day I crossed the outskirts of Pau.

Around noontime the drizzle stopped and the weather cleared up. After I had crossed the A 64 (aka "La Pyrénéenne") I reached the "Hippodrome de Pau" and walked all around the race course. I lost my way for a while in a suburb, but finally reached Lescar.

The Romans had founded a town named Benearnum nearby. This developed to the Béarnaise capital until is was razed by the Vikings in 841. Rebuilt on a hill, Lescar was the seat of a Diocese (until 1801). This church, erected from 1120 on, was the Cathedral of the Diocese, supported later by the Kings of Navarra, who had a burial place here. The church is known for the Romanesque capitals and fantastic mosaics. I took lots of photos - and moved on

Somebody made quite an effort to give the pilgrims a bright smile! The "chemin" turns right here. The sign tells, that to Lacommande may take 1h35, to reach Oloron-Ste-Marie will take 6.00h. The "Via Tolosana" runs through the vineyards of the "Domaine de Cinquau". The white wines of the Jurançon (AOC) are produced here.

Around 1115 Viscount Gaston IV of Béarn founded a "hopital" here for the pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostella. He was called "le Croisé" due to his participation in the First Crusade, actually he was the first crusader to enter the city of Jerusalem on July 15, 1099. The still existing buildings and the church "Saint-Blaise" were erected between 1130-1140. A hospital existed here upto the French Revolution. An old graveyard with numerous old discodial tomb-steles is south of the church. The recently renovated buildings are used for exhibitions in the summer months. As well accomodations are offered to the tired pilgrims. I was not tired, so I got a "tampon" in my "credencial", took lots of photos - and moved on.

Finally I reached Oloron-Sainte-Marie and saw the former cathedral on the other side of the valley. The construction of the church was by the same Gaston IV, Viscount of Béarn (aka "le Croisé"), whom I had "met" some hours ago in Lacommande. I had visited Oloron-Sainte-Marie already some years ago, and decided to stay a day here.

The construction of the church was started by Gaston IV, Viscount of Béarn (aka "le Croisé") in 1102. After he returned from the First Crusade Gaston IV created a kind of infrastructure along the Via Tolosana and "Sainte-Marie" was part of it. Only some parts of the church date back to the 12th century, as during the Albigensian Crusade, the church got severely damaged. Most important is the Romanesque portal - and I had time to take many photos, that I will upload later in another context. Here is only one detail from the archivolt, where lots of people prepare a dinner. The right guy carries a huge salmon over his shoulder, while the right person is seated and seems to think about the recipe. The salmon is obviously fresh and very slick, as the guy holds the fish with a trident.

Launderettes are meeting and melting points. The weary traveller will meet locals. There is an hour to spend at least, waiting for the washing machine. Talk is cheap. For the tourist all the locals have interesting stories to listen to and for the locals this stranger in the launderette is interesting. Here even the washing powder was free of charge (Lessive Gratuite)!

The portal of "Saint-Croix", a church that is even older than the former cathedral "Sainte-Marie". From 1080 on the Viscounts of Béarn had erected a strong fortification around a castle and the church "Saint-Croix". Upto 1858 two seperate towns existed on both sides of the "Gave d’Oloron". Since then both parts form "Oloron-Sainte-Marie". The church has wonderful Romanesque capitals, but unfortunately I did not find the light switch..

I passed Lurbe-Saint-Christau in the early afternoon - then found this track - and froze! I knew, that brown bears have been reintroduced to the Pyrenees and I remember, that sheep farmers were furious about. I had seen sprayed graffitti protesting against more bears... But I knew as well, that there were only very few bears - and probably not that near to a village. The only bear I had ever seen was a black bear in the Yellowstone Park. At that time I was sitting inside a car - and felt quite sure and comfortable. Anyway, after I while I moved on. Whistling as loud as possible.

The large structure seen in the village of Sarance is "Notre Dame de Sarrance" a place of pilgrimage since early times. This may be the oldest place of pilgrimage, dedicated to Maria, within the Pyrennes, the most visited one is of course Lourdes (70kms west). In 1140 Pope Innocent II granted privileges to a monastery here, that probably cared for the pilgrims. The foundations of the buildings seen to date back to that time. The last five monks left monastery after the French Revolution, when the buildings were sold as "national property". The church became parish church in 1797. When you will come to Sarrance, stop at the Charcuterie "Casteignau Etablissements". The best pâté is produced there - and walking up to the Somport, you will need the extra-calories.

I had planned, to stay over night in the priory, a place for pilgrims since the 12th century, when Pope Innocent II granted privileges to the monastery. Premonstratensians, founded by Bernard of Clairvaux´s friend St. Norbert, built this cloister in the early 17th century. All doors of the priory were open - but nobody was at home. I did not want to wait - and walked on.

I had left the main road and approached Accous in the early morning. Passing through Jouers, I found in the center of the hamlet, the small chapel "Saint-Saturnin" and an old graveyard. The apse was surely 12th century and had some remarkable corbels. Unfortunately the chapel was locked.

I had left the main road and approached Accous in the early morning. Passing through Jouers, I found in the center of the hamlet, the small chapel "Saint-Saturnin" and an old graveyard. Leaving the graveyard, I noticed, that the artisan, who had created the iron gate, sympathized with pilgrims.

Passed Accous on a sunny morning and visited the church. South of the village the valley of the Gave d’Aspe, that I had followed since Oloron-Ste.-Marie, narrows.

The GR653 (aka "Via Tolosana") passes though areas, where cattle, sheep and even horses roam pretty free. There are gates for the walkers open - and close. This one was probably done by the same artisan, who had created the iron gate for the cementery in Jouers. He really liked the pilgrims!

The fomer "hôpital" in Borce is a great place to take a break. It now serves as a museum and is centered around this modern stele. The walls are covered with grafitti. Some of them depict soldiers in uniforms. The soldiers have been here in the early 19th century, when Napoleon´s Grande Armée crossed the Pyrenees and made a bloody war on Portugal and Spain. Next to the old hôpital is the "Hospitalet de Borce", a modern "gîte d'étape"

South of Borce, the valley of the Gave d’Aspe is so narrow, that the GR653 (aka "Via Tolosana") merges onto the N134. Traffic is pretty heavy. Lots of trucks use this road, so I had to be cautious. Overlooking the valley is the "Fort du Portalet", a strong fortification. The construction started in 1842 under the orders of Louis Philippe, but it took upto 1870 to complete the fort. During WWII the Vichy regime interned political prisoners here. Léon Blum, Georges Mandel and other politicians were imprisoned in Fort du Portalet.