Medieval Elephants

Hugh IV, Lord of Lusignan, founded this church opposite his castle in 1024. Legends tell, that the castle was built by Mélusine, a legendary water nymph, for her noble husband. I had met her already in Pathenay. The church was completed in the early 12th century, but underwent a number of alterations over the century. The In 1373, during the 100 Years´ War English troops seized Lusignan, during the siege and the reconquest, led by Bertrand Du Guesclin, the tower - and the vaults collapsed. Already four years later, the damages were repaired. The most interesting work of art (for me) in Lusignan is the nothern portal, seen here. It once opened to a small priory, dependent of the Benedictian Abbey Saint-Junien in Nouaillé-Maupertuis (30kms west), that existed already in Carolingian times. The 23 carved stones around the 12 c. portal depict a medieval bestiary. Here is the left part of the semicircle. A pelican or swan (?), a bull (?), a winged dragon, a cat (?) an elephant, four quadrupeds.

Hugh IV, Lord of Lusignan, founded this church opposite his castle in 1024. Legends tell, that the castle was built by Mélusine, a legendary water nymph, for her noble husband. I had met her already in Pathenay. The church was completed in the early 12th century, but underwent a number of alterations over the century. The In 1373, during the 100 Years´ War English troops seized Lusignan, during the siege and the reconquest, led by Bertrand Du Guesclin, the tower - and the vaults collapsed. Already four years later, the damages were repaired. The most interesting work of art (for me) in Lusignan is the nothern portal, seen here. It once opened to a small priory, dependent of the Benedictian Abbey Saint-Junien in Nouaillé-Maupertuis (30kms west), that existed already in Carolingian times. The 23 carved stones around the 12 c. portal depict a medieval bestiary. A close-up of the elephant, just seen with its neighbours. Most medieval elephants are carved in pairs, posing head to head. This one is portrayed in profile. It is hard to recognize, but the elephant is "dressed" like all elephants I saw so far in the Poitou.

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is a jewel of Romanesque architecture. The nave was erected within 20 years, from 1120 on, after the preceding church burnt down, with a loss of more than 1000 lifes. The choir and the transept, seen here, were erected 1185 - 1215. They are completed already in gothic style. The relics of Sainte Marie Madeleine, that had been here since around 1050, made Vezelay to a center of pilgrimage (and the starting point of the Via Lemovizensis). But in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Sainte Marie Madeleine. Unfortunately the Dominicans found the patronage by Pope Boniface VIII and Charles d'Anjou - and so Vezelay lost it´s importance. In 1559, during the Wars of Religion, Huguenots looted Vezelay und burnt the relics, that were still in Vezelay. Today there is a golden reliquary in the large, probably carolingian crypt, so obviously at least a part of the relics are still here. Prosper Mérimée and Viollet-le-Duc saved the basilica, that was a ruin in the early 19th century. When Prosper Mérimée started the renovation of the basilica in 1840, he was 26 years old. This was the first task for the young architect.. There are 99 carved capitals in the Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine. Only a few were so damaged, that they had to be replaced during the renovation of the church. These damaged ones can be seen in the neighbouring museum now. All other capitals are still exactly in that places, they were carved for between 1125 and 1140. There is a specific smooth carving style in Vezelay. Here once were two elephants standing trunk in trunk. A vandal destroyed the capital. Either he could not stand the harmony of the animal couple, or he just did not like elephants at all. Charlemagne´s Abul Abbas had died in 810, more than 300 years before these elephants were carved. Two elephants reached Europe a century after the capital was created. The "Cremona Elephant", a gift presented to Frederick II by Sultan Al-Kamil in 1229, and the elephant Louis IX (aka "Saint Louis") presented to Henry III. This elephant, imported to France by Louis on his return from the crusade, died in cold and wet London in 1258.

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is a jewel of Romanesque architecture. The nave was erected within 20 years, from 1120 on, after the preceding church burnt down, with a loss of more than 1000 lifes. The choir and the transept, seen here, were erected 1185 - 1215. They are completed already in gothic style. The relics of Sainte Marie Madeleine, that had been here since around 1050, made Vezelay to a center of pilgrimage (and the starting point of the Via Lemovizensis). But in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Sainte Marie Madeleine. Unfortunately the Dominicans found the patronage by Pope Boniface VIII and Charles d'Anjou - and so Vezelay lost it´s importance. In 1559, during the Wars of Religion, Huguenots looted Vezelay und burnt the relics, that were still in Vezelay. Today there is a golden reliquary in the large, probably carolingian crypt, so obviously at least a part of the relics are still here. Prosper Mérimée and Viollet-le-Duc saved the basilica, that was a ruin in the early 19th century. When Prosper Mérimée started the renovation of the basilica in 1840, he was 26 years old. This was the first task for the young architect.. There are 99 carved capitals in the Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine. Only a few were so damaged, that they had to be replaced during the renovation of the church. These damaged ones can be seen in the neighbouring museum now. All other capitals are still exactly in that places, they were carved for between 1125 and 1140. There is a specific smooth carving style in Vezelay. Here once were two elephants standing trunk in trunk. A vandal destroyed the capital. Either he could not stand the harmony of the animal couple, or he just did not like elephants at all. Charlemagne´s Abul Abbas had died in 810, more than 300 years before these elephants were carved. Two elephants reached Europe a century after the capital was created. The "Cremona Elephant", a gift presented to Frederick II by Sultan Al-Kamil in 1229, and the elephant Louis IX (aka "Saint Louis") presented to Henry III. This elephant, imported to France by Louis on his return from the crusade, died in cold and wet London in 1258.

Sens was an important place in medieval times. Upto the 11th century the Archbishop of Sens hold the title "Primate of the Gauls and Germania". Thomas Becket lived in Sens for some time, when he was forced to leave England. Here Thomas met Pope Pope Alexander III. In 1141 Bishop Henri Sanglier here caused the condemnation of Peter Abelard. Bishop Henri Sanglier was well connected to the leading political figures. He and Abbot Suger de Saint-Denis were close friends - and had similar architectural ideas. Abbot Suger decided around 1137 to rebuild the Church of Saint-Denis. Bishop Henri started the construction of this cathedral around 1140. It is still discussed, which church is older, as this would be the oldest early Gothic church in France. While in Saint Denis (130kms northwest) the building process came to an halt for some time, the choir of the cathedral in Sens was completed already in 1168. It is sure, as Suger´s church in Saint Denis was an abbey church, the "Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Sens" is the oldest Gothic cathedral in France. Of course, there were many alterations done later. After the southern tower of the western facade collapsed in 1267 it got rebuilt within the next decades. By then the early Gothic style had developed, so parts of the facade got remodeled end of the 13th century. The main portal of the facade, maybe a little younger than the western one but in the main parts created before the southern tower collapsed. I found the two sides most interesting, though they are pretty weathered. The upper tier has "arts" - dialectic, rhetoric, arithmetic, geometry etc. The lower tier has "nature" including some strange, exotic animals. Here is an elephant. In case, these carvings are dated to the 12th century, the artist never saw an elephant. Two elephants have been in Europe within the 13th century. Frederick II owned the "Cremona Elephant" around 1240, Louis IX ("Saint Louis") returned with an elephant from the Seventh Crusade and gave the animal to Henry III as a present in 1255.

I had not planned to visit Doussay, a small village in Vienne, but the lady I met in Airvault borrowed me her "Sculpture romane du Poitou" a valuable book, I do not own. There I found out, that Saint-Martin in Dourssay could be traced back to Carolingian times and had even pre-Romanesque elements. When I read about an "elephant-carving" in Doussay, I changed my schedule - and reached the church early morning only to see, that the church was a ruin, fenced in under reconstruction, surrounded by heaps of building material and heavy machinery. "No Entry" signs everywhere! I met one of the workers and asked him about this elephant. He shook his head, but led me to the local bar, opposite the church, where he told the audience, that this guy, holding an umbrella and a camera, was looking for an elephant in Dourssay. This caused an early morning amusement. I tried to explain - and all of a sudden, the situation changed. "Oui!", he remembered an elephant. From stone! All together now, we walked back, entered the church and found an elephant hidden behind the scaffolding. A wonderful elephant! A second one was just around the corner of the capital. After Poitiers, Aulnay, Surgères and Vouvant, Doussay was the fifth place with elephants I found in Poitou. All of them are "dressed" in the same way. I´ll be back in Doussay and take some better photos, after the renovations of Saint-Martin will be completed in a couple of years. MERCI BEAUCOUP!

Already Theodoric the Great, King of the Ostrogoths, may have funded a church, erected over the tomb of Saint Zeno, who, following the legends, was born in Mauretania and died around 380 in Verona. The erection of the present church began in the 9th century. Soon after San Zeno´s relics were translated into the new church. At that time Charlemagne´s son Pepin (aka "Pepin of Italy") resided in Verona and a large Benedictine monastery grew all around the church. When the Magyars invaded Italy in the early 10th century, the church got severely damaged, but the relics were not harmed, as they had been taken out and were hidden. In 967, a new church was built with the patronage of Otto I. On January 3, 1117, the church was damaged by an earthquake, that ruined so many buildings in Northern Italy. The church was restored and got enlarged in 1138. The large crypt dates back to the 10th century, as it is known, that the relics of San Zeno were transferred in 921. A flight of stairs runs down to the crypt from the central nave. Both aisles have stairs, too as the crypt is as wide as the church. The arches have interesting friezes. They were created by Adamino von San Giorgio, who left his signature. The friezes are populated with many fanciful and monstrous animals. Here is - an elephant! I did not find the elephant during my first visit to Verona, though - Verona is only about 100 kms north east of Cremona, where an elephant, known as "Cremona Elephant" is proven. The elephant had been a gift to Frederick II from Sultan Al-Kamil in 1229.

Already Theodoric the Great, King of the Ostrogoths, may have funded a church, erected over the tomb of Saint Zeno, who, following the legends, was born in Mauretania and died around 380 in Verona. The erection of the present church began in the 9th century. Soon after San Zeno´s relics were translated into the new church. At that time Charlemagne´s son Pepin (aka "Pepin of Italy") resided in Verona and a large Benedictine monastery grew all around the church. When the Magyars invaded Italy in the early 10th century, the church got severely damaged, but the relics were not harmed, as they had been taken out and were hidden. In 967, a new church was built with the patronage of Otto I. On January 3, 1117, the church was damaged by an earthquake, that ruined so many buildings in Northern Italy. The church was restored and got enlarged in 1138. The large crypt dates back to the 10th century, as it is known, that the relics of San Zeno were transferred in 921. This flight of stairs runs down to the crypt from the central nave, but the both aisles have stairs, too as the crypt is as wide as the church. The arches have interesting friezes. They were created by Adamino von San Giorgio, who left his signature. The friezes are populated with many fanciful and monstrous animals. Here is - an elephant! I did not find the elephant during my first visit to Verona, though - Verona is only about 100 kms north east of Cremona, where an elephant, known as "Cremona Elephant" is proven. The elephant had been a gift to Frederick II from Sultan Al-Kamil in 1229. The elephant was used by Frederick II in his triumph parades. It is depicted in the "Chronica Majora": annonetheelephant.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/cremona.jpg

"Saint-Pierre d'Aulnay" is a church outside of Aulnay, in the center of an old graveyard. The setting has not changed for centuries. For the pilgrims of the 12th century this church was a major halt - and it still is for all the tourists... A predecessing church „Saint-Pierre-de-la-Tour“ had been here, that, when the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostella got more and more popular, was obviously too small, as Aulnay was conveniently situated between Poitiers and Saintes on the Via Turonensis. A new, larger church was needed, so the place was handed over to the chapter of the cathedral in Poitiers. The canons then probably planned this church, that was erected from about 1130/1140 on. "Saint-Pierre d'Aulnay" (here seen from east) is a gem of the "style saintongeais". For Peter Strafford ("Romanesque Churches Of France") this is "one of the best examples of late Romanesque architecture in what used to be Aquitaine". - HI(C) SUNT ELEPHANTES - I have uploaded many photos already taken during previous visits. So I will now add only a few.

The church of the former Priory Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Benoît is now the parish church of the village. I had visited Perrecy-les-Forges some years ago - and this time the church was indeed open! Charles Martel, grandfather of Charlemagne and leader of the frankish armee in the Battle of Tours (732), gave the Perrecey estate to his brother Childebrand as a gift to thank him for defeating the Sarascens in the valleys of the Rhone and the Saône in 732. Childebrands heirs bequeated it to the abbey of "Saint-Benoît-sur-Loire". First monks settled here 880/885. Some parts of the westwork may date back to the 9th century. 1020/1030 a romanesque basilica was constructed, one arm of the transept collapsed in 1095 - but got reconstructed soon after. 1120/1130 the narthex was added, which is a unique masterpiece. Though obviously the priory run out of funds and so the second tower was never completed. Over the next centuries more chapels were added. The monastery burnt down in 1500 and got dissolved in 1776 by a royal order. All existing buildings but the church got demolished after the French Revolution. The church lost its crossing tower. The spectalular narthex with the wonderful carvings survived all wars and revolutions. I had seen these elephants before, but I could not resist to take more and more photos.

The church of the former Priory Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Benoît is now the parish church of the village. I had visited Perrecy-les-Forges some years ago - and this time the church was indeed open! Charles Martel, grandfather of Charlemagne and leader of the frankish armee in the Battle of Tours (732), gave the Perrecey estate to his brother Childebrand as a gift to thank him for defeating the Sarascens in the valleys of the Rhone and the Saône in 732. Childebrands heirs bequeated it to the abbey of "Saint-Benoît-sur-Loire". First monks settled here 880/885. Some parts of the westwork may date back to the 9th century. 1020/1030 a romanesque basilica was constructed, one arm of the transept collapsed in 1095 - but got reconstructed soon after. 1120/1130 the narthex was added, which is a unique masterpiece. Though obviously the priory run out of funds and so the second tower was never completed. Over the next centuries more chapels were added. The monastery burnt down in 1500 and got dissolved in 1776 by a royal order. All existing buildings but the church got demolished after the French Revolution. The church lost its crossing tower. The spectalular narthex with the wonderful carvings survived all wars and revolutions. I had seen these elephants before, but I could not resist to take more and more photos.

The church of the former Priory Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Benoît is now the parish church of the village. I had visited Perrecy-les-Forges some years ago - and this time the church was indeed open! Charles Martel, grandfather of Charlemagne and leader of the frankish armee in the Battle of Tours (732), gave the Perrecey estate to his brother Childebrand as a gift to thank him for defeating the Sarascens in the valleys of the Rhone and the Saône in 732. Childebrands heirs bequeated it to the abbey of "Saint-Benoît-sur-Loire". First monks settled here 880/885. Some parts of the westwork may date back to the 9th century. 1020/1030 a romanesque basilica was constructed, one arm of the transept collapsed in 1095 - but got reconstructed soon after. 1120/1130 the narthex was added, which is a unique masterpiece. Though obviously the priory run out of funds and so the second tower was never completed. Over the next centuries more chapels were added. The monastery burnt down in 1500 and got dissolved in 1776 by a royal order. All existing buildings but the church got demolished after the French Revolution. The church lost its crossing tower. The spectalular narthex with the wonderful carvings survived all wars and revolutions. I had seen these elephants before, but I could not resist to take more and more photos.

Trogir was founded by Greek colonists in the 3rd century BC. In Roman times this was an important harbour town. From the 9th century on Trogir was under Croatian rule and later part of the Byzantine empire. A diocese was established in the 11th century, in 1107 the Hungarian-Croatian King Coloman ("The Bookish", "Kálmán Könyves") granted the autonomy. Saracen troops conquered Trogir in 1123 and demolished most of it. From 1420 upto 1797 Trogir belonged to the Republic of Venice. For a short while it belonged to the Napoleonic kingdom of Italy, but upto 1918 Trogir was part of the Habsburg Empire. Trogir is more than 2000 years old. It grew under the influence of the ancient Greeks, the Romans, and the Venetians... Trogir's medieval core, surrounded by walls, comprises (about 10) churches, houses and palaces from the Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque periods. Since 1997 the centre of Trogir is a "UNESCO World Heritage Site". The Cathedral of St. Lawrence was erected from 1213 on the foundations of cathedral destroyed by the Saracens in 1123. Most of the work was done in the 13th century. This cathedral is world wide known for Master Radovan´s portal. The portal was carved by the local architect and sculptor Master Radovan (and his workshop). It was completed and signed by Radovan in 1240. Here are the two sides of the portal. The door posts are decorated with reliefs and two carved columns with scenes of hunting and beasts. The sides of the columns, that flank the doors, are decorated with scenes of people and animals entangled by tendrils. There are hunting scenes but as well strange, exotic and mythical creatures. A goat, a dromedary - and an elephant!

Trogir was founded by Greek colonists in the 3rd century BC. In Roman times this was an important harbour town. From the 9th century on Trogir was under Croatian rule and later part of the Byzantine empire. A diocese was established in the 11th century, in 1107 the Hungarian-Croatian King Coloman ("The Bookish", "Kálmán Könyves") granted the autonomy. Saracen troops conquered Trogir in 1123 and demolished most of it. From 1420 upto 1797 Trogir belonged to the Republic of Venice. For a short while it belonged to the Napoleonic kingdom of Italy, but upto 1918 Trogir was part of the Habsburg Empire. Trogir is more than 2000 years old. It grew under the influence of the ancient Greeks, the Romans, and the Venetians... Trogir's medieval core, surrounded by walls, comprises (about 10) churches, houses and palaces from the Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque periods. Since 1997 the centre of Trogir is a "UNESCO World Heritage Site". The Cathedral of St. Lawrence was erected from 1213 on the foundations of cathedral destroyed by the Saracens in 1123. Most of the work was done in the 13th century. This cathedral is world wide known for Master Radovan´s portal. The portal was carved by the local architect and sculptor Master Radovan (and his workshop). It was completed and signed by Radovan in 1240. Here are the two sides of the portal. The door posts are decorated with reliefs and two carved columns with scenes of hunting and beasts. The sides of the columns, that flank the doors, are decorated with scenes of people and animals entangled by tendrils. There are hunting scenes but as well strange, exotic and mythical creatures. Portait of an elephant!

Split, the largest city of Dalmatia, was (just like neighbouring Trogir) as the Greek colony in the 4th century BC. Roman emperor Diocletian had a palace built as a retirement residence near Salona, the capital of the Roman province of Dalmatia at that time. After the Romans abandoned the site, the Palace remained empty for several centuries, but when Salona was sacked by Avars and Slavs in the 7th century, the walled Palace of Diocletian was settled by refugees from Salona. Since the the palace has been occupied, with residents making their homes and businesses within the palace basement and directly in its walls. Today the remains of the palace form about half the old town and city center of Split. In 1979 the historic center of Split was included into the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. The Cathedral of Saint Domnius ("Katedrala Svetog Duje") is in the center of ancient Diocletian's Palace. The octogonal building was erected in the early 4th century as Emperor Diocletian's mausoleum. Today this church is the seat of the archbishop of the archdiocese of Split-Makarska - and one of the oldest cathedrals worldwide. The carved stalls have some pretty unique carvings of animals. Next to the camel (previous upload) is this elephant. The carver was probably "inspired" from Radovan´s portal in Trogir (about 20kms north). Radovan had incorporated a camel and an elephant into his work around 1220.

The construction of the cathedral of today started in 1196, about 150 years later, the church may have been completed, but a massive addition of the cathedral was planned in 1339. It would have more than doubled the size of the structure and so it would have been larger than (old) Saint Peter in Rome. This cathedral was never completed. The interior of the Duomo is rather stunning, with black-and-white striped pillars and ornate decoration on every surface. The pavement of Cathedral features etched and inlaid marble panels created from 1372 to 1547. Here in the center is a she-wolf suckling twins. The boys are Senius and Aschius, the legendary founders of Siena. They were sons of Remus and so had to flee from Rome, after uncle Romulus had killed their father. So the she-wolf stans for Siena - surrounded by eight allied cities. Rome is symbolized by an elephant.

The construction of the cathedral of today started in 1196, about 150 years later, the church may have been completed, but a massive addition of the cathedral was planned in 1339. It would have more than doubled the size of the structure and so it would have been larger than (old) Saint Peter in Rome. This cathedral was never completed. The interior of the Duomo is rather stunning, with black-and-white striped pillars and ornate decoration on every surface. The pavement of Cathedral features etched and inlaid marble panels created from 1372 to 1547. This elephant symbolizes Rome (see the complete picture on the previous uplaod). Is this a "medieval elephant" . or one of the first "modern elephants"? Hanno was an Indian elephant given to Pope Leo X by King Manuel I of Portugal. Hanno reached Rome in 1514 and became a favourite of the papal court and was featured in processions. Hanno was very popular - and died two years later from complications of a treatment for constipation with gold-enriched laxative. The elephant seen here is very precise - maybe this is indeed Hanno.

Parma, part of the Holy Roman Empire since Charlemagne´s times, was locally ruled by its bishops. During the long Investiture Controversy, Parma was (mostly) member of the Imperial party ("Ghibellini"). Two of Parma´s bishops even became antipopes: Càdalo as Honorius II and Guibert as Clement III. An almost independent commune was created around 1140. After the Peace of Constance confirmed the Italian communes' rights of self-governance in 1183, quarrels with the neighbouring communes (eg Piacenza and Cremona) developed over the trading lines along the Po river. When in 1248 Papist families ("Guelphs") gained control over the city, Emperor Frederick II (aka "Stupor Mundi") besieged Parma with no success. This were the circumstances, when in 1196 the City Council of Parma commissioned the building of the Battistero di San Giovanni to Benedetto Antelami. In 1216 the second tier was completed. The work stopped under a temporary roof. It continued in 1249 and the octagon, located next to the cathedral, was finally completed in 1270. A frieze, depicting animals and mythological creatures, runs around the eights sides of the Battistero di San Giovanni. Here to the very left is an elephant!