Hesse / Hessen

Fritzlar is not only known for the romanesque church of St. Peter, but as well for the pretty well conserved center, still protected by a wall and some towers. After Saint Bonitatius had chopped down the sacred "Donar Oak", this one of the starting points of the evangelisation of the germanic tribes, living east of the Rhine. Charlemagne had an imperial residence here. In 919 an Imperial Diet was held in Fritzlar - Heinrich I (aka "Henry the Fowler") was elected German king then, being the first of the Ottonian dynasty. During the 10th and 11th century this was a very important place, where kings and emperors resided frequently. Now Fritzlar is a small town (pop. 15000) - with nice half timbered building standing all around the market place.

This was not the best time to visit Fritzlar. Most of St. Peter was hidden behind screens, due to a longterm renovation - cloister, museum and treasury were temporarly closed. As it was early morning, the light was not good for taking photos from this side, but I did not want to wait. This church is tightly connected to Saint Bonifatius (aka "Wynfnith", "Winfrid") the most important christian missionary in the east of the Frankish Kingdom, preaching the gospel to the germanic tribes. The "Vita sancti Bonifati", written only some decades after his martyrdom in 755, tells, that Saint Bonitatius came to this place and chopped down a sacred oak, dedicated to the pagan god Thor (Donar). All onlookers were waiting for Thor´s fierce reaction, but Thor did not care. After the felling Saint Bonifatius used the timber - and had a wooden church built here. There is a statue in front of the church, that shows Bonifatius standing on the stub of a oak, holding a huge axe. He founded a monastery nearby and named Saint Wigbert the first abbot. Saint Wigbert replaced the humble wooden structure by a prestigious stone one. This was probably the church that archeologists found traces of. It dates back to the end of the 8th century. Times were hard, in 774 pagan Saxons destroyed the abbey, but the stone church (23 meters.long), obviously withstook the attacs. But the Saxons returned in 1079 - and this time, they looted and destroyed the abbey, the church and the settlement. The building of a three nave, flat roofed basilica started 1085/1090 and was completed in 1118. It was an impressing large church with an extensive westwork, but already in 1171 the visiting Archbishop found the structure in such a bad state, the he commisioned a "rebuilding", what, as the romanesque style had changed created a "new church". Nowadays many architectural styles can be found here, as architects and builders were busy all the time. The church was part of a convent upto the secularisation. Since 1803 this is a parish church. In the 19th century the state of the building worsened and got unstable. During a mass in December 1868 a gusting wind destroyed the spire of the southern tower. The debris broke through roof and vaultings. A catastrophy with a death toll of 21. The reconstruction done in 1873, created the new look with two high towers. Note the large narthex. Here is a "timtable" created by the parish (in German): www.katholische-kirche-fritzlar.de/fritzlar/dom/zeittafel...

This was not the best time to visit Fritzlar. Most of St. Peter was hidden behind screens, due to a longterm renovation - cloister, museum and treasury were temporarly closed. This church is tightly connected to Saint Bonifatius (aka "Wynfnith", "Winfrid") the most important christian missionary in the east of the Frankish Kingdom, preaching the gospel to the germanic tribes. The "Vita sancti Bonifati", written only some decades after his martyrdom in 755, tells, that Saint Bonitatius came to this place and chopped down a sacred oak, dedicated to the pagan god Thor (Donar). All onlookers were waiting for Thor´s fierce reaction, but Thor did not care. After the felling Saint Bonifatius used the timber - and had a wooden church built here. There is a statue in front of the church, that shows Bonifatius standing on the stub of a oak, holding a huge axe. He founded a monastery nearby and named Saint Wigbert the first abbot. Saint Wigbert replaced the humble wooden structure by a prestigious stone one. This was probably the church that archeologists found traces of. It dates back to the end of the 8th century. Times were hard, in 774 pagan Saxons destroyed the abbey, but the stone church (23 meters.long), obviously withstook the attacs. But the Saxons returned in 1079 - and this time, they looted and destroyed the abbey, the church and the settlement. The building of a three nave, flat roofed basilica started 1085/1090 and was completed in 1118. It was an impressing large church with an extensive westwork, but already in 1171 the visiting Archbishop found the structure in such a bad state, the he commisioned a "rebuilding", what, as the romanesque style had changed created a "new church". Nowadays many architectural styles can be found here, as architects and builders were busy all the time. The choir seen from east. The large crypts are the oldest parts of the structure, dating back to the church of 1118. The windows of the crypts can be seen here. The large gothic window in the center replaced a smaller romanesque. The half-round structure to the right has three architectonial "layers". The small windows open to the crypt inside from 1118. The next level was added during the late romanesque/early gothic area within the 13th century, while the half timbered top level was done around 1560.

St. Peter (aka "Fritzlarer Dom") is tightly connected to Saint Bonifatius. the most important christian missionary in the east of the Frankish Kingdom, preaching the gospel to the germanic tribes. The "Vita sancti Bonifati", written only some decades after his martyrdom in 755, tells, that Saint Bonitatius came to this place and chopped down a sacred oak, dedicated to the pagan god Thor (Donar). All onlookers were waiting for Thor´s fierce reaction, but Thor did not care. After the felling Saint Bonifatius used the timber - and had a wooden church built here. There is a statue in front of the church, that shows Bonifatius standing on the stub of a oak, holding a huge axe. He founded a monastery nearby and named Saint Wigbert the first abbot. Saint Wigbert replaced the humble wooden structure by a prestigious stone one. This was probably the church that archeologists found traces of. It dates back to the end of the 8th century. Times were hard, in 774 pagan Saxons destroyed the abbey, but the stone church (23 meters.long), obviously withstook the attacs. But the Saxons returned in 1079 - and this time, they looted and destroyed the abbey, the church and the settlement. The building of a three nave, flat roofed basilica started 1085/1090 and was completed in 1118. It was an impressing large church with an extensive westwork, but already in 1171 the visiting Archbishop found the structure in such a bad state, the he commisioned a "rebuilding", what, as the romanesque style had changed created a "new church". Nowadays many architectural styles can be found here, as architects and builders were busy all the time. Here a capital from the interior of the narthex ("Paradies), that was added before between 1253 -1267. This hall was used as a chapel and as a law court in that times. This carvings has probably not to do anything with the law. I think it is a sitting "Master of the Beasts", holding two of them by the tails.

St. Peter (aka "Fritzlarer Dom") is tightly connected to Saint Bonifatius. the most important christian missionary in the east of the Frankish Kingdom, preaching the gospel to the germanic tribes. The "Vita sancti Bonifati", written only some decades after his martyrdom in 755, tells, that Saint Bonitatius came to this place and chopped down a sacred oak, dedicated to the pagan god Thor (Donar). All onlookers were waiting for Thor´s fierce reaction, but Thor did not care. After the felling Saint Bonifatius used the timber - and had a wooden church built here. There is a statue in front of the church, that shows Bonifatius standing on the stub of a oak, holding a huge axe. He founded a monastery nearby and named Saint Wigbert the first abbot. Saint Wigbert replaced the humble wooden structure by a prestigious stone one. This was probably the church that archeologists found traces of. It dates back to the end of the 8th century. Times were hard, in 774 pagan Saxons destroyed the abbey, but the stone church (23 meters.long), obviously withstook the attacs. But the Saxons returned in 1079 - and this time, they looted and destroyed the abbey, the church and the settlement. The building of a three nave, flat roofed basilica started 1085/1090 and was completed in 1118. It was an impressing large church with an extensive westwork, but already in 1171 the visiting Archbishop found the structure in such a bad state, the he commisioned a "rebuilding", what, as the romanesque style had changed created a "new church". Nowadays many architectural styles can be found here, as architects and builders were busy all the time. Here another capital from the interior of the narthex ("Paradies), that was added before between 1253 -1267. This hall was used as a chapel and as a law court in that times. When I saw this capital (and took the photo) I "underestimated" it. I just saw a strange figure, damaged edges. I did not take a closer look or take more photos. Meanwhile I tried to find information about this carving, but Gottfried Kiesow does not even mention these capitals in his book "Romanik in Hessen". The artistic style differs clearly from that elaborate carving of the capital just seen. In the center is a cripple with a huge head and a short round body. He has one long and one short leg. His arms are (compared to the body) way too long and his hands hold wooden blocks, that he uses to move. Around his neck is a kind of bag. One the right edge a large head - and two thin, rope-like arms. An animal (further right) bites into the elbow.

St. Peter (aka "Fritzlarer Dom") is tightly connected to Saint Bonifatius. the most important christian missionary in the east of the Frankish Kingdom, preaching the gospel to the germanic tribes. The "Vita sancti Bonifati", written only some decades after his martyrdom in 755, tells, that Saint Bonitatius came to this place and chopped down a sacred oak, dedicated to the pagan god Thor (Donar). All onlookers were waiting for Thor´s fierce reaction, but Thor did not care. After the felling Saint Bonifatius used the timber - and had a wooden church built here. There is a statue in front of the church, that shows Bonifatius standing on the stub of a oak, holding a huge axe. He founded a monastery nearby and named Saint Wigbert the first abbot. Saint Wigbert replaced the humble wooden structure by a prestigious stone one. This was probably the church that archeologists found traces of. It dates back to the end of the 8th century. Times were hard, in 774 pagan Saxons destroyed the abbey, but the stone church (23 meters.long), obviously withstook the attacs. But the Saxons returned in 1079 - and this time, they looted and destroyed the abbey, the church and the settlement. The building of a three nave, flat roofed basilica started 1085/1090 and was completed in 1118. It was an impressing large church with an extensive westwork, but already in 1171 the visiting Archbishop found the structure in such a bad state, the he commisioned a "rebuilding", what, as the romanesque style had changed created a "new church". Nowadays many architectural styles can be found here, as architects and builders were busy all the time. The oldest still existing structure of St. Peter is the crypt, as that was part of the basilica that was completed in 1118. The crypt is rather complex, as it consists out of three units. The central crypt, seen here, is flanced by two round ones.

St. Peter (aka "Fritzlarer Dom") is tightly connected to Saint Bonifatius. the most important christian missionary in the east of the Frankish Kingdom, preaching the gospel to the germanic tribes. The "Vita sancti Bonifati", written only some decades after his martyrdom in 755, tells, that Saint Bonitatius came to this place and chopped down a sacred oak, dedicated to the pagan god Thor (Donar). All onlookers were waiting for Thor´s fierce reaction, but Thor did not care. After the felling Saint Bonifatius used the timber - and had a wooden church built here. There is a statue in front of the church, that shows Bonifatius standing on the stub of a oak, holding a huge axe. He founded a monastery nearby and named Saint Wigbert the first abbot. Saint Wigbert replaced the humble wooden structure by a prestigious stone one. This was probably the church that archeologists found traces of. It dates back to the end of the 8th century. Times were hard, in 774 pagan Saxons destroyed the abbey, but the stone church (23 meters.long), obviously withstook the attacs. But the Saxons returned in 1079 - and this time, they looted and destroyed the abbey, the church and the settlement. The building of a three nave, flat roofed basilica started 1085/1090 and was completed in 1118. It was an impressing large church with an extensive westwork, but already in 1171 the visiting Archbishop found the structure in such a bad state, the he commisioned a "rebuilding", what, as the romanesque style had changed created a "new church". Nowadays many architectural styles can be found here. Architects and builders were busy all the time. The oldest still existing structure of St. Peter is the crypt, as that was part of the basilica from 1118. The crypt is rather complex system, as it consists out of three crypts actually. The large rectangular central crypt (previous photo), and two smaller roundish crypts on the sides. One of these is seen here.

The 9th century gatehouse ("Torhalle"), that once lead into the Lorsch abbey, founded in 764, hidden completely due to restaurations. Scaffolding and screens all around! Bad luck for me. Maybe good luck for the building. I´ll return to Lorsch some time in the future, but before that - I´ll phone the tourist.

The exact age of the St.-Peters Church in Linden (about 6kms south of Giessen) is unknown. The church is placed on a once strongly fortified hill, mentioned in the Lorsch codex. A smaller Carolingian chapel had been here already as early as 810/820, foundations of this chapel have been found during a restauration. The church seen here was probably erected within the 12th century, the two flanking towers are younger. Today the church serves the evangelical parish of Gross-Linden.

The exact age of the St.-Peters Church in Linden (about 6kms south of Giessen) is unknown. The church is placed on a once strongly fortified hill, mentioned in the Lorsch codex. A smaller Carolingian chapel had been here already as early as 810/820, foundations of this chapel have been found during a restauration. The church seen here was probably erected within the 12th century. The romanesque baptismal font has been moved in front of the church. From this point of view, the outstanding feature of St. Peters is already visible - a sculptured portal.

The exact age of the St.-Peters Church in Linden (about 6kms south of Giessen) is unknown. The church is placed on a once strongly fortified hill, mentioned in the Lorsch codex. A smaller Carolingian chapel had been here already as early as 810/820, foundations of this chapel have been found during a restauration. The church was probably erected within the 12th century. The romanesque portal is the outstanding feature of St.-Peters. It was carved around 1220/1230 and originally it had been on the southern entrance of the church, but was moved to the western facade. There are only a few of these portals in Germany - and this one is pretty unique, though it is not clear, how to "read" them. One theory claims, that the carvings are connected to the legend of Saint Wenceslaus I, the Duke of Bohemia. Saint "Wenzel" was murdered by his brother. Soon after his "martyrdom" several hagiographies were (told and) written - and these were very popular within the middle ages. The parish has a website about the history of the church (in German): www.ev-kirche-gr-linden.de/kirchengelaende.html

The exact age of the St.-Peters Church in Linden (about 6kms south of Giessen) is unknown. The church is placed on a once strongly fortified hill, mentioned in the Lorsch codex. A smaller Carolingian chapel had been here already as early as 810/820, foundations of this chapel have been found during a restauration. The church was probably erected within the 12th century. The romanesque portal is the outstanding feature of St.-Peters. It was carved around 1220/1230 and originally it had been on the southern entrance of the church, but was moved to the western facade. There are only a few of these portals in Germany - and this one is pretty unique, though it is weathered and difficult to "read". One theory claims, that the carvings are connected to the legend of Saint Wenceslaus I, who was murdered by his brother. Soon after his "martyrdom" several hagiographies were (told and) written - and these were very popular within the middle ages. So here is the center of the outer archivolt and the complete inner with the hunting scene and the dragon. R. Hamann, quoted by Kiesow, sees a nativity scene in the center, flanked by the Magis, traveling with two wagons. The carvings are pretty weathered, but I doubt that. I see a lady in a position, that could well be the "Maria Regina", but I can not see a child. There are neither ox nor ass, but two men and (between them) an animal (dog). They carry weapons or tools and may be hunters or peasants. They seem to chat. Then there are these two wagons, on the left "equipped with two" on the right with one person. The lady may stand for the Virgin, but all others seem like "simple people" - to me. The parish has a website about the history of the church (in German): www.ev-kirche-gr-linden.de/kirchengelaende.html

The exact age of the St.-Peters Church in Linden (about 6kms south of Giessen) is unknown. The church is placed on a once strongly fortified hill, mentioned in the Lorsch codex. A smaller Carolingian chapel had been here already as early as 810/820, foundations of this chapel have been found during a restauration. The church was probably erected within the 12th century. The romanesque portal is the outstanding feature of St.-Peters. It was carved around 1220/1230 and originally it had been on the southern entrance of the church, but was moved to the western facade. There are only a few of these portals in Germany - and this one is pretty unique, though it is weathered and difficult to "read". One theory claims, that the carvings are connected to the legend of Saint Wenceslaus I, the Duke of Bohemia. Saint "Wenzel" was murdered by his brother. Soon after his "martyrdom" several hagiographies were (told and) written - and these were very popular within the middle ages. This is an "overview" of the two archivolts, I will upload more detailed shots later. R. Hamann sees the nativity-scene in the center of the outer archivolt, the Magi rush to the center with wagons! Gottfried Kiesow ("Romanik in Hessen") supports that. The inner archivolt has on the left a hunter with a typical hunting-horn . His three dogs have cornered a boar (?). On the right a large winged dragon with a long tail. The light here is different from the previous shots from the same portal. This shot is from a second visit in Linden. The church was locked btw - both times. The parish has a website about the history of the church (in German): www.ev-kirche-gr-linden.de/kirchengelaende.html

The exact age of the St.-Peters Church in Linden (about 6kms south of Giessen) is unknown. The church is placed on a once strongly fortified hill, mentioned in the Lorsch codex. A smaller Carolingian chapel had been here already as early as 810/820, foundations of this chapel have been found during a restauration. The church was probably erected within the 12th century. The romanesque portal is the outstanding feature of St.-Peters. It was carved around 1220/1230 and originally it had been on the southern entrance of the church, but was moved to the western facade. There are only a few of these portals in Germany - and this one is pretty unique, though it is weathered and difficult to "read". One theory claims, that the carvings are connected to the legend of Saint Wenceslaus I, the Duke of Bohemia. Saint "Wenzel" was murdered by his brother. Soon after his "martyrdom" several hagiographies were (told and) written - and these were very popular within the middle ages. This is the left side, next to the door, frontview. On the right under the siren stands a small bishop wearing a mitra on his head - and holding a small crosier. This bishop stands "next" to the person holding that banner (seen on the previous upload). On the left a large bearded man, holding an enormous axe. I saw this man as an executioner, displaying his giant tool, first. Then I noticed, that the object, he has in his left hand may be a kind of medieval straightedge. That would mean, he may be a timberman, working on a construction site. The parish has a website about the history of the church (in German): www.ev-kirche-gr-linden.de/kirchengelaende.html

The exact age of the St.-Peters Church in Linden (about 6kms south of Giessen) is unknown. The church is placed on a once strongly fortified hill, mentioned in the Lorsch codex. A smaller Carolingian chapel had been here already as early as 810/820, foundations of this chapel have been found during a restauration. The church was probably erected within the 12th century. The romanesque portal is the outstanding feature of St.-Peters. It was carved around 1220/1230 and originally it had been on the southern entrance of the church, but was moved to the western facade. There are only a few of these portals in Germany - and this one is pretty unique, though it is weathered and difficult to "read". One theory claims, that the carvings are connected to the legend of Saint Wenceslaus I, the Duke of Bohemia. Saint "Wenzel" was murdered by his brother. Soon after his "martyrdom" several hagiographies were (told and) written - and these were very popular within the middle ages. Both sides have very weathered lions. From this position only the little sinner in the lion´s mouth can be seen. This is the left side, next to the door, sideview. The carvings are weathered and kind of "clumsy", compare with the qualities of work, that can be found in France and Spain. On the left - a person, holding a flag or banner with five tails. His bearded head is strangely bent sidewards. He probably "accompanies" the person seen on the frontview. On the right - a siren - and below a huge snake. The parish has a website about the history of the church (in German): www.ev-kirche-gr-linden.de/kirchengelaende.html

The exact age of the St.-Peters Church in Linden (about 6kms south of Giessen) is unknown. The church is placed on a once strongly fortified hill, mentioned in the Lorsch codex. A smaller Carolingian chapel had been here already as early as 810/820, foundations of this chapel have been found during a restauration. The church was probably erected within the 12th century. The romanesque portal is the outstanding feature of St.-Peters. It was carved around 1220/1230 and originally it had been on the southern entrance of the church, but was moved to the western facade. There are only a few of these portals in Germany - and this one is pretty unique, though it is weathered and difficult to "read". One theory claims, that the carvings are connected to the legend of Saint Wenceslaus I, the Duke of Bohemia. Saint "Wenzel" was murdered by his brother. Soon after his "martyrdom" several hagiographies were (told and) written - and these were very popular within the middle ages. Both sides have very weathered lions, sculpted in a different style. This lion seems to hold a ram in his mouth. This is the right side, next to the door. All the carvings are weathered and kind of "clumsy", compare with the qualities of work, that can be found in France and Spain. On the right - a small person, holding a club, fights a winged dragon. Is this St. Michael with a club? On the left - under a bird or angel a large bearded person with a key. So this is probably St. Peter. I am not sure, what he is holding in the other hand. Could this be part of a clamp, used to lift a stone (= petros)? The parish has a website about the history of the church (in German): www.ev-kirche-gr-linden.de/kirchengelaende.html

The exact age of the St.-Peters Church in Linden (about 6kms south of Giessen) is unknown. The church is placed on a once strongly fortified hill, mentioned in the Lorsch codex. A smaller Carolingian chapel had been here already as early as 810/820, foundations of this chapel have been found during a restauration. The church was probably erected within the 12th century. The romanesque portal is the outstanding feature of St.-Peters. It was carved around 1220/1230 and originally it had been on the southern entrance of the church, but was moved to the western facade. There are only a few of these portals in Germany - and this one is pretty unique, though it is weathered and difficult to "read". One theory claims, that the carvings are connected to the legend of Saint Wenceslaus I, who was murdered by his brother. Soon after his "martyrdom" several hagiographies were (told and) written - and these were very popular within the middle ages. The right side of the outer archivolt has this icon. A large and a small man, wearing hats or helmets. They both hold something in their hands, but it is impossible, to see, what it is. In the right corner "hangs" and axe, or a hammer. R. Hamann sees Cain and Abel. I see two men - and a tool. This is the last upload, centered around the portal of this church. It is in deed very mysterious, it is difficult to interconnect the different carvings. I have the impression, that there might not be a story. There are symbols like the devouring lions and the dragon. There might be a Virgin, there is a dragon-fighter. Then there is a hunter, a bishop, accompanied by a person with a banner, a couple of peasants, two horse carts.. The parish has a website about the history of the church (in German): www.ev-kirche-gr-linden.de/kirchengelaende.html

The gigantic baroque cathedral was built 1704 - 1712 by architect Johann Dietzenhofer, after he had studied St. Peter in Rome. The romanesque Ratgar basilica, built by Ratgar 791 - 819, for centuries the largest church north of the Alps, had to be destroyed to give room for the "modern" cathedral.