Embellished Dresses, Plain Girls

Found in the Grimshaw/Halkard Album, Springfield, Vermont.
See set for full explanation.
Unknown friend or relative.
This type of brocade embellishment has a particular name that I'm not remembering.
Just found the photo where lauralemur (miss her!) said it was more typical of the 1860s, but the photo she commented on was 1880s and she thought it had been updated. She called it "soutache trim."