Group: DIY Color Film
discussing diy c-41 recipes
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First I recall some comments to put it all together in one discussion:
pictures:
www.ipernity.com/doc/imagesfrugales/39187420
www.ipernity.com/doc/chrono/39106768/in/activity/39176596
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comments:
Henrique:
I made a lot of experiments with Dignan 2-bath, mainly looking for the best 2.nd bath. In the latest batch, which is giving sactisfactory results, I am using 25g/l of Potassium Carbonate and 0,6g/l of Potassium Bromide for 10 minutes at room temperature and frequent agitation, 5 gentle rotations per minute with the axe of the tank inclined.
The first bath is 11g/l CD4, 9 g/l of Sodium Sulfite and 1g/l Potassium Metabisulfite. I kept it in amber bottle, full. If the first bath oxidizes it becomes pink and will not work anymore. This last batch is keeping very well since months but before this one not, I was using a transparent glas bottle and it turned pink and I need to extend very much the times.
I like very much this method because I am lazy and distracted and I don't need to care about temperature and times. I am doing 10 minutes each bath but it could be more, no problem because the 2.nd bath will not overdevelop.
Reinhold:
Just developed the second part of the first film in your recipe and reduced the soda (anhydrous here) in part B by 20 %. 15 minutes 28 °C (room temp) almost continuous agitation in part A and 10 minutes only 1 gentle turn at the beginning looks even better hanging to dry. There is significant visible development already in part A, so I guess times, temp and agitation have a big influence and part B is not critical.
Henrique:
Are you referring to the 45g monohydrate Sodium Carbonate of this recipe: silent1.home.netcom.com/Photography/Dilutions%20and%20Times.html#2-bath_C-41 ?
I am using 25g/l Potassium Carbonate, about 50% of the original recipe. This would be only 18g/l of Sodium Carbonate. I am very curious about the composition of the second bath you use and the results. Also the amount of KBr is important, I think, I changed it to 0,6g/l. Small step for the man...
I never realized that bath A already develops. I only care about keeping it acidic for better preservation. Yes, 10 minutes is safe for bath A and 15min. almost constant and gentle agitation for bath B. Yesterday I made ruff agitation and this produced some uneven development.
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OK, after scanning I must admit that my second development was not good. More density but a strong colorshift and uneven development. Seems that the 2nd bath also needs agitation and the amount of soda was wrong. Next time I will work with 18 g/l sodium carbonate waterfree as Henrique suggested.
So here's the recipe I will work with next:
first bath
11g/l CD4, 9 g/l of Sodium Sulfite and 1g/l Potassium Metabisulfite
second bath
18 g/l sodium carbonate waterfree, 0,6 g/l pot. bromide
I will dev for 10 + 10 minutes at room temp, about 28 °C now.
Besides that, I found interesting links to recipes on Apug in this thread, but it's about undevided c-41 dev.:
www.apug.org/forums/forum223/34413-dignan-ncf-41-divided-color-negative-developer-2.html
See post #17 and 18
pictures:
www.ipernity.com/doc/imagesfrugales/39187420
www.ipernity.com/doc/chrono/39106768/in/activity/39176596
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
comments:
Henrique:
I made a lot of experiments with Dignan 2-bath, mainly looking for the best 2.nd bath. In the latest batch, which is giving sactisfactory results, I am using 25g/l of Potassium Carbonate and 0,6g/l of Potassium Bromide for 10 minutes at room temperature and frequent agitation, 5 gentle rotations per minute with the axe of the tank inclined.
The first bath is 11g/l CD4, 9 g/l of Sodium Sulfite and 1g/l Potassium Metabisulfite. I kept it in amber bottle, full. If the first bath oxidizes it becomes pink and will not work anymore. This last batch is keeping very well since months but before this one not, I was using a transparent glas bottle and it turned pink and I need to extend very much the times.
I like very much this method because I am lazy and distracted and I don't need to care about temperature and times. I am doing 10 minutes each bath but it could be more, no problem because the 2.nd bath will not overdevelop.
Reinhold:
Just developed the second part of the first film in your recipe and reduced the soda (anhydrous here) in part B by 20 %. 15 minutes 28 °C (room temp) almost continuous agitation in part A and 10 minutes only 1 gentle turn at the beginning looks even better hanging to dry. There is significant visible development already in part A, so I guess times, temp and agitation have a big influence and part B is not critical.
Henrique:
Are you referring to the 45g monohydrate Sodium Carbonate of this recipe: silent1.home.netcom.com/Photography/Dilutions%20and%20Times.html#2-bath_C-41 ?
I am using 25g/l Potassium Carbonate, about 50% of the original recipe. This would be only 18g/l of Sodium Carbonate. I am very curious about the composition of the second bath you use and the results. Also the amount of KBr is important, I think, I changed it to 0,6g/l. Small step for the man...
I never realized that bath A already develops. I only care about keeping it acidic for better preservation. Yes, 10 minutes is safe for bath A and 15min. almost constant and gentle agitation for bath B. Yesterday I made ruff agitation and this produced some uneven development.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
OK, after scanning I must admit that my second development was not good. More density but a strong colorshift and uneven development. Seems that the 2nd bath also needs agitation and the amount of soda was wrong. Next time I will work with 18 g/l sodium carbonate waterfree as Henrique suggested.
So here's the recipe I will work with next:
first bath
11g/l CD4, 9 g/l of Sodium Sulfite and 1g/l Potassium Metabisulfite
second bath
18 g/l sodium carbonate waterfree, 0,6 g/l pot. bromide
I will dev for 10 + 10 minutes at room temp, about 28 °C now.
Besides that, I found interesting links to recipes on Apug in this thread, but it's about undevided c-41 dev.:
www.apug.org/forums/forum223/34413-dignan-ncf-41-divided-color-negative-developer-2.html
See post #17 and 18
The topic of this discussion has been edited by imagesfrugales 14 months ago.
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imagesfrugalestogether with the CD4 I also ordered HAS and yesterday I mixed this recipe (link below) and got immediately a result that I can`t distinguish from i.e. the Tetenal kit dev. or lab developed films. I did it at 29 °C, 9 mins agitation every 15 seconds. 1 bath, no fiddling, natural colors, fine grain etc. Perfect results from the start. The best is, you can do push processing which I did before with readymade devs and great results. Also lower temps that the 38 °C are possible without drawbacks. I made a handwritten chart for different temps based on infos from Maco (Digibase kit) that I will upload later (sloooow net connection today). Here`s the recipe, no Kodalk anti-cal needed if a. demin is used. Everything else I had at hand.
www.apug.org/forums/forum40/26717-processing-c-41-home.html#post288486
About 4 Eur for 1 Liter and 20 films to develop, not a bad ratio.
Nevertheless I also like your Dignans mod, so far I got colorshifts but the results look like some crossprocessing which also can be very nice. Samples later (tomorrow?).
I don`t know but guess the HAS preserves the CD4 developer.
Best - Reinhold
imagesfrugalesThe bleach is also great, I still use the old bottle as it doesn`t go kaputt and can be refreshed simply by shaking with oxygen (air).
Comparing with readymade kits, the selfmade c-41 I`m referring to (not the 1-shot) should be able to develop at least 20 films per liter, maybe more, maybe replenishing is possible.
Drawback may be the shelf life of the working solution. The Digibase concentrates keep for at least 2 years if stored carefully, but the working solution was repeatably gone after 8 - 10 weeks.
PS: I use regular acidic b/w fixer and don`t use any stabilizer, proper rinsing should be done then. A drop of dish detergent for the last rinse and wipe with a folded kitchen tissue gives very clean and ultrafast drying negs. No scratches so far, the color emuslions seem to be very robust.
imagesfrugaleswww.flickr.com/photos/imagesfrugales/sets/72157656729333440
At the pictures with the gray road surface you can see that the color balance is very neutral. I didn't change it in post, only a minor contrast adjustment was done. Scanned with Vuescan (the one and only I use)
imagesfrugaleswww.flickr.com/photos/imagesfrugales/19921031773