At any time of day or night, the pagoda compound flows with a continuously moving tide of Buddhist pilgrims; as the sun rolls across the sky, the stupa acts like a giant sundial, casting its shadow over arcades of Buddha statues, ceremonial altars piled high with offerings, spirit shrines, memorial stupas, giant bells and gilded pavilions. Gongs ring, bells chime and school-aged Buddhist monks fill the air with mumbled sutras.