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Tuareg bracelets

Tuareg bracelets
These were made by Mauritanian silversmiths at their market in central Dakar, Senegal, 1986. I had done a lot of research about these silversmiths many years ago and I have forgotten a lot of their complex history, except that they were perhaps originally slaves owned by the Tuareg and supplied them with jewelry, amulets and other metal decorations. Some Tuareg, and other Sahelian nomads, migrated from Mali to Senegal and Mauritania during the deadly drought of the 1970s. Some were allowed by the government of Senegal to come to Dakar to sell their wares, but my understanding is that they were not allowed permanent residency.

About three years after I bought these bracelets, I happened to read a tiny news article in the San Francisco paper that they had all been killed by Senegalese "rebels," who had long resented their prosperous silver market in Dakar. I was completely shocked, as I had dealt personally with several of them in their dark, smoky workrooms behind the main market area.

All of these years later, I still can't believe the ones I met were killed. Extreme poverty led to this tragic situation, both that of Mauritanians and Senegalese. However, compared to Mauritania, Senegal is prosperous, stable and practices a liberal form of Islam.

Slaves of the Tuareg: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ikelan
Sahel droughts: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sahel_drought#Late_20th_century_droughts
Update on silversmiths: tinyurl.com/yxb6hc74

Street View screen grab - silversmiths returned to the same place at 7373 Avenue Place 116. Enter through the pink passage.

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Heidiho, Andy Rodker, Peter Van Lom, kiiti and 5 other people have particularly liked this photo


Comments
 Gisela Plewe
Gisela Plewe club
Eine erschütternde Geschichte!
4 years ago.
Diane Putnam club has replied to Gisela Plewe club
Ja, Gisela, I was very sad! Danke, my friend.
4 years ago.
 Cheryl Beal
Cheryl Beal club
Oh my word how very sad and shocking!!! They must mean so much to you!
4 years ago.
Diane Putnam club has replied to Cheryl Beal club
They really do. I'll never forget one young man, in particular. So quiet and polite. I don't recall how I happened to be allowed in the back of the market. We could not converse, but I somehow got what I needed. I was sitting on the filthy floor, black soot all around me in a low room about 5 feet square and sweltering-hot. There was a fire pit in the middle where he melted metal. I don't remember if he made the jewelry himself, or if he was an apprentice, or even a slave of a silversmith.

In the late '80s I had a tiny business of importing African crafts and was not aware of the slavery issue. The older men outside, behind makeshift display counters, were all Mauritanians and finely dressed, intimidating, arrogant...I think now that they were probably shocked by me and disliked doing business with a woman. Their country was, and is, much less tolerant than Senegal. There is more I understand in retrospect about my trips to Africa.
4 years ago. Edited 4 years ago.

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