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august 2008
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August 27, 2008

Back in Tajrish

A while since i was active on ipernity. no reason for alarm, busy at work and such things that have taken my mind off photography and instead pushed me into politics - through my job as a news anchor for Press TV. Some links to video of my on-screen work can be found in my facebook page.

But today i really needed a break so I took a walk in Tajrish. Bustling commerce and leisure shoppers abounded in the warm afternoon. Thick clouds brewing over the mountains came to only light spits of rain but a sign that autumn is on its way.

After a bite to eat at the jigari (griled liver on skewers) I took a step forward in photographing people in the street.

The shoe-shiner on the steps next to Mellat Bank knocked me back at first but I literally stood my ground, camera in hand and the fortuitous arrival of a customer. A young guy who wanted the soles of his football boot mended managed to get a smile out of the chap. At first he said only one but I showed him that I had underexposed. That was my cue and I sat down next to him and started chatting.

Later, on the fringes of the bazaar I caught the young guys in front of the vanity belts and promised them a quick print from the developers up the road which I handed to them 10 minutes later.

Published at 18:16 ( 0 comments / 209 visits )
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May 16, 2008

Images of old Yazd

Some great pictures taken in the mud-wall alleys and bazaar district of Yazd

yazdnegar.blogfa.com/post-466.aspx

Published at 20:02 ( 2 comments / 586 visits )
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May 7, 2008

whose air is it anyway?

 


Alice Russell - Hurry on Now f…

 

A dust storm has hit the city and I can hardly see past milad tower.

the dust storm
the dust storm

There are electricity pylons in the mountains just above us. Is it true they cause cancer? And what about the microwaves from the big satellite dishes on the roof at work? Did they put the newsroom at the bottom of the building to make it bomb proof? I’m not sure if all this technology and politics can really be trusted.

This morning there was a fracas in the street below my window. They’re opening up a dead end road which backs onto the mountains. The Basijis have buried some unknown soldiers up there and they want to make it a shrine to the politico-religious establishment.

The neighbours were complaining their peace would be broken by all the rough-stubbled plebeian men and black-clad women folk on Fridays, driving their noisy Paykans up the hill to cry in the name of the martyrs.

In Tehran, the right to clean air is something you only get with premium real estate. Central Tehran was a dust bowl today. The wind kicking it into your hair and eyes.

While one of the neighbours went irretrievably hysterical, a man revealed the undercurrent to the discussion:

Why not? Let the bottom-of-the-city people come up here and enjoy the air up here sometimes. You talk like you own it…

They did pay for their piece of the mountain. but I guess it didn’t come with a guarantee.

© Published at 19:27 ( 2 comments / 185 visits )
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May 6, 2008

Typographic mingling in the centre of civilization

 

the pen's orient
the pen's orient
If there is a trend towards homogenization there is also a trend towards bringing out the essential native aesthetic through means developed in other cultures.

Typography has gone hand in hand with the technological developments that enabled it, required it and shaped it.

So are cultural latecomers now adapting to this new world? Adapting it’s tools and techniques to its own needs? Adapting or reinterpreting it – recreating it?

 

Typography as part of the Dialogue of Civilisations requested by Mohammad Khatami when he was Iran’s president.

The meta-dialogue of techniques of visual communication, a dialogue of written scripts and illustration.


at the Imam Ali Religious Art Museum Japanese calligraphy was placed alongside Iranian. noted calligraphers from both countries had been invited, they walked us through the tea ceremony step by step and dressed a woman up in clothes no one has worn in more than a thousand years.

I really didn’t notice any real dialogue between the two traditions apart from in the exhibition promotional material. Two styles cohabiting a single space but remaining tactfully distinct. While the embassy functionaries and invited artists shared the sensor space of dozens of digital cameras, the two distinguished artistic traditions eyed each other silently, respectfully, across an ocean.

Arabesque

it’s good to know that graphic artists in Europe have seen the positive side of the rise of Islam. Is Arabesque a great achievement in spite of the current tensions between Europe and the West? Or is it itself a product of it? positivity abounds in posters for Iftar parties in the Netherlands, Arabic inspired calligraphy-in-light from a French graphiste and graffiti in early-Kufic.

 

 

Tehran Spring.

It’s good to be outside again.

 

 

urban blooms
urban blooms

 

 

 

 

 

 

 if they're so tough why do they have to be in our faces so much?

 

 

 

edifice
edifice

 

stood politely side by side.

 

tacit acknowledgement of the gulf between the two.

 

© Published at 22:25 ( 0 comments / 573 visits )
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© Published at 12:02 ( 2 comments / 228 visits )
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© Published at 00:07 ( 1 comment / 197 visits )
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April 8, 2008

Baluchestan and Iran

baluchi women's dress
baluchi women's dress

Baluchestan is a pretty traditional place. Wherever we were received as guests women and men were strictly separated. I attended a wedding without even seeing the bride.

When I saw women and girls in the streets they were often wearing black chadors loosely draped over outfits like these. But the black covering never fully hid the bright colours beneath. It was just one of so many ways that Baluchestan reminded me of India and showed me more clearly than ever that Iran is a diverse country and is essentially nothing without this diversity.

Baluchis are not separatists by any means. The Baluchi people are a relatively new ethnic group and accept their position sandwiched between the two great civilisations of Iran and India. Baluchis from Pakistan seem to have no problem crossing the border into Iran where they find plenty of work and higher wages. Unfortunately, some of the lawlessness of Pakistan also makes it over to Iran and there have been some high profile kidnappings of foreign tourists in the area and a bomb attack on Iranian soldiers in Zahedan.

More on Baluchestan soon...

www.ipernity.com/doc/willyong/album/59301

© Published at 17:32 ( 0 comments / 101 visits )
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April 3rd, 2008

I'm back

I've been away for a couple of weeks - far from computers but clicking away happily on my still new Nikon D80. Thanks to Adam for his Iranian new year wishes - I hope you all have a happy 1387.

First I spent a week in Iranian Baluchestan, near the Pakistan border. With Betel stains on the walls, spicy food, long beaches and brightly-coloured mosques it was was one step closer to India and a world away from Tehran.

Then from the far south of Iran I came back to the capital and headed north to the forests of Gorgan province. Hiking up the mountains and rising up above the clouds. The wettest, greenest, lushest, freshest forests I had ever seen. Behruz, this is one for you as I was with all your old buddies from Terhan Uni.

Pics from both these trips coming soon...

www.ipernity.com/doc/willyong/album/59301

© Published at 23:52 ( 4 comments / 201 visits )
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March 15, 2008

Best of 1386

The Iranian year is about to come to an end. Here are some of my personal favourite pics from the year.

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© Published at 19:45 ( 0 comments / 340 visits )
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March 3rd, 2008

Irony

Arch-purveyors of postmodern irony, CNN International, tonight offered us this alarming headline:

"More advanced societies, more vulnerable to attack"

-- How to protect yourself from "Cyber Terror"

It seems we in the "advanced" world have more to lose than anyone else... we're not even safe behind our laptops.

no "terror" can be effective if people aren't afraid.
the trouble is, at heart, most people ARE afraid.
afraid of facing themselves in the mirror.
afraid of losing something because they don't know what they have.
afraid of growing old because they haven't really lived.
these people become the majority.
teach them to fear an invisible enemy,
and they run to the state for protection.

Your views...

 

© Published at 16:44 ( 6 comments / 309 visits )
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February 28, 2008

national pride and prejudice

So before you point your fingers,
Be sure your hands are clean.
Judge not
Before you judge yourself.
Judge not

talking prejudice and discrimination with polkadotspeedo

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© Published at 09:25 ( 3 comments / 223 visits )
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February 24, 2008

Sadness causes cancer

“And I saw her years later in a dream. I was wearing one of the gold bracelets she’d given me to keep safe and she came to me like she was drawn to it. I was afraid but I went to her but she jumped to the other side of the river. I tried to follow her across and jumped. But I fell into the water and that’s when I woke up."

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© Published at 21:18 ( 2 comments / 224 visits )
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February 17, 2008

I cover, therefore I am not

There's something very powerful about the chador when it is worn over the face. In Iran you only see it in special circumstances - sometimes when a woman is begging. They just sit, motionless, existing but denying their existence. The most complete expression of shame that I can imagine.

© Published at 17:11 ( 2 comments / 308 visits )
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February 16, 2008

Taking pictures in Tehran

All those pictures of marching militia men and political slogans seem to have put the frighteners in some of you. One of my contacts just asked if it was dangerous to take pictures in Iran and I thought I'd blog my answer.

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© Published at 14:44 ( 2 comments / 169 visits )
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February 15, 2008

No, I do not belong to Hezbollah

My recent photographs from the 22 Bahman rallies prompted one of my contacts to ask if I was a supporter of Hezbollah. The name itself means “Party of God”. I’m not a member of this organization nor any other which divides man into “we and they”. I just went down to the parades and took pictures of what I saw.

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© Published at 14:01 ( 5 comments / 238 visits )
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February 8, 2008

Dubai bookshop disappointment

Arriving at City Centre – one of Dubai’s largest shopping malls – I was quickly taken in by what looked like a bookshop – a 500 square metre Borders lookalike called MacGrudy’s.

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© Published at 10:53 ( 1 comment / 214 visits )
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February 1st, 2008

"moral agent" vs "servant of power"

Faith is not a bunch of churchgoers praying for God to make everything alright. (with thanks again to polkadotspeedo)

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© Published at 23:01 ( 0 comments / 155 visits )
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January 26, 2008

My Family: Grandmother

I live in Tehran with my grandmother. Here are some words about her, though words can't do justice.

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© Published at 16:37 ( 5 comments / 195 visits )
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