I am a person who makes up "one-shot" chemicals after I load my film in a daylight developing tank. I have found, in my environment, this works best for consistant results.

I suggest that you DO NOT rewind the all the way in the cassette, leave the leader out. (with motorized cameras, if you have an option to "Leave-the-leader-out" activate that before you load the camera).
Because, it will be a lot faster to load your film on the reel in the beginning. Because you can Pre-load the reel in daylight! (about 1/2 around the reel).
I will give more detail below.

Loading your Daylight tank:
  • On a cleared area near your Kitchen Sink, place your Large Changing bag with Zippered side up. Open both zippers.
  • Take your film cassette with the leader outside, and take a pair of safety scissors and make a "Rounded" tip on the film.
  • now insert the leader through the wide feeder overhangs of the reel, and through the 2 ball barrings. (shiny side up)
  • now, twist the reel back and forth to load about 1/2 way around.
  • make sure you place everything inside the 2nd (middle) Zipper opening. Including the safety scissors.
  • place the partially loaded reel in your changing bag on its side
  • place the Daylight Tank with center spool, and top next to the film reel.
  • Zip both Zippers closed.. VERY IMPORTANT! this is the double light shield.
  • turn the changing bag around so the arm sleeve's face your.
  • Take off your watch or wrist jewelry. and put your hands in the provided arm sleeve's.
  • Find the reel, and lift it up about 1 foot, and make sure the cassette is facing you, and the prelaoded film is on top. The auto film loader barrings will be on top also.
  • with one hand take the cassette and reveal about 1 foot of film. let the cassette hang in mid-air
  • now with your left and right hand, turn the reel back and forth to load the film until the cassette is touching the reel. You can have finger resting on the loaded film to make sure it is loading. Not much pressure. that side is the base, not the emulsion.
  • when you done, you can tare the film from the cassette. Hold the reel and cassette firmly, and cut with the safety scissors, the end of the film.


Before I start a common work-flow for developing Black and White Film (35mm), there is one thing that must incorporate from the beginning.

That is to use "FILTERED WATER", either by using Mineral Free Bottled Water (At you local grocery store in a self-serve area, or in 5Gal bottles), or, by attaching a 200PPM Charcoal water filter on your kitchen tap.
All cities and urban/rural areas have water not suitable for developing film without filtering out the minerals. These can spot your film with very tiny dots of minerals that show up as very tiny white specks in your print or scan. I am talking a 1/25 or so per "mm" in size. Really hard to clone out, or use a healing brush.

Since I am on the subject, part of your developing shopping list will include a 16oz filtered funnel. You are to use this every-time you pour chemicals in your tank, AND in your used Chemical bottles, if you are reusing the Fixer.

OK, here is your "Shopping List"
  • HC110 Concentrate (I have a DOC with the dilutions already figured out for using the concentrate)
  • Any Rapid Fixer (non-hardening), or A Harding Fixer like Kodak/Kodafix. (2 uses max, or just toss after each use)
  • Check Fix (small bottle that you just add a drop to used fixer, if you reuse the fixer)
  • 1 64oz Beaker
  • 4 600ml Skinny Beakers (to be used to hold "Ready To Use" Chemicals).
  • 3 Stirring sticks
  • 1 long stem Instant Chemical thermometer.
  • 1 4oz measuring tall shot glass.. try a Culinary Store or section in your general merchandise store. It will have ml and oz markings.
  • 1 16oz Measuring Cup with OZ, ML markings
  • 1 Kids Medicine Measuring syringe, with the long reach tip. (10ml)
  • 1 Cough Syrup 2TBS (20ml) cup (comes with the bottle of syrup)
  • Large Changing Bag (not Medium)
  • Patterson 2 reel daylight developing tank (comes with 1 reel)
  • 35mm Patterson Daylight Developing reel. (now you have 2 reels)
  • Small Church Key
  • Small, kids scissors
  • 1 1qt Storage bottle
  • Master Developer Chart app for your phone or tablet (iOS or Android, $8.99)
  • Medium Quality Charcoal Water Filter attachment for the kitchen tap. (I use a DuPont brand that costs around $35, the cheaper ones have a very cheap connector to the tap, and tends to loosen up and then leak)
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Mixing chemicals....
  • HC110: (1 roll, at Dilution H -- 1:60)
    1 Kids Medicine Measuring syringe. (10ml)
  • 1 Cough Syrup Cup, 2TBS (20ml, comes with the bottle of syrup)
  • 1 64oz beaker
  • 1 600ml Skinny Beaker
  1. Take the Kids Medicine Measuring syringe and get a full syringe of HC110 right out of the bottle.
  2. Put 10ml of Syrup in the small Cough Syrup cup
  3. Using Filtered water or bottled mineral free water, fill the 64oz Beaker up with cold filtered water.
  4. Take your Instant Chemical thermometer and see how close to 20c
  5. If it is over 25c bring it down with an Ice Bath in a larger container with water and ice, place the 600ml beaker in the water/ice bath to cool it down.
  6. If it is under 18c, refill the 600ml beaker with a bit warmer filtered water
  7. Caution: The Charcoal Filter can get damaged with water that is too hot. So, keep the tap water around the 20c mark.
Pour the 10ml of HC110 in a 600ml beaker and pour the filtered water from the 64oz beaker using the 16oz filtered funnel in the 600ml beaker with the HC100 in it to make 600ml. (590ml water/10ml HC110--Dilution H, 1:60) using a stirring stick, mix it up good.
DONE, set it aside on the left.
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  • Fixer
  • 1 64oz Beaker (you still have enough filtered water for this step)
  • 1 600ml Skinny Beaker
  • 1 4oz tall Shot Glass measure
For a 1:3 Fixer,
  1. Measure 3oz of Fixer concentrate in the 4oz tall Shot glass Measure
  2. Pure that 3oz of fixer in the 600ml skinny beaker
  3. Pure water in the 600ml Skinny beaker from 64oz Beaker into the Fixer.. Stop at 350ml mark (12oz)
  4. DONE
  5. Set to the right of the mixed HC110
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  • Photo Flo
  • 1 600ml Skinny Beaker
  • Photo Flo bottle
  • Sryinge with long reach tip
  1. Fill the 600ml beaker with 300ml of filtered water
  2. take the sryinge and draw a few ml into it.
  3. put a 4-5 drops in the 300ml of water
  4. stir
  5. DONE
  6. Set it next to the Fixer.
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After you load your film in a daylight tank, (using a large changing bag), you should put a hand towel on the counter top to keep the tank on as you move through the process.

Line up your premixed chemicals behind the towel from LEFT to RIGHT,
Developer / Stop bath: if you use a Stop bath instead of water / Fix / Photo Flo

Find the Film / Developer combo in your Master Developer Chart App and make it a favorate now.
You can now edit the times used per step..
  1. With your saved film/dev combo as a favorate hit the tab on the upper right
  2. Under Stop bath/Fixing you can change the times (for a running water stop use at least 3min FILTERED WATER) Prepared Stop: 30s to 1m, Fixer (fresh): 5min, Used: 7-8min... do not reuse fixer over 3 times, Hit Save
  3. Under Hypo Clear/Final Wash/Rinse Aid, change the times. Final Rinse, 10-20min, depending on how many changes of water you get per min. 40-50 changes of water is a good goal. (I get 3-4 changes per minute, so I use 10-12min. Rinse Aid (Photo Flo) 1min with some agitation. Save it.
  4. Under Agitation Scheme, set your prefered scheme.. (Starting point: 30s for just after the developer pour, 5s every 1min). Save it.
To change the Time/Temp
  • touch the area just above the Stop bath/Fixing, and check the T/T conversion box.
  • now change the temp to what the thermomiter says (18c - 25c range)
  • Save it.
To set the amount of developer you will being using (300ml for 1 Roll, 600ml for 2 rolls (Dilution B),
  • while still on this editing page,
  • hit DONE (upper right)
  • Under HC110, set the Volume to "300" or "600"
  • Hit the Back Arrow (upper left)
To Change the Dilution Ratio, Hit Edit
  • Under HC110, the 1st # is "1"
  • The second # for the dilution B is "31"... because, Dilution B is a 1:31 dilution.
  • Hit save.
  • Hit Done
  • you are now ready to develop your film.

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DEVELOPING THE FILM:
  • OK, your chemicals are lined up "L>R" behind the developing tank
  • Your device with the Master Developer Chart is open and ready to use. (make sure your "Music" volume is turned up)
  • You have aleady taken the temp of the developer, so you are ready here
  1. Run the filtered water for at least 30s, then place your loaded tank under the flow for 3min... This will pre-soak the film, and will help rinse away any colored tint on the backing with most films.. drain the water.....
DEVELOPER: Using the 16oz filtered funnel, pour the developer in the tank, then lift and tap the tank few times to dislodge any air bubbles. just a CM or so off the counter.
  1. Start the timer, and agitate by spinning or inversion (depending on the tank)
  2. Spinning: slow spin, one spin every few seconds.
  3. Inversion: about 1 inversion per 2-3 seconds.
  4. AT THE END, DUMP THE DEVELOPER in the sink.
STOP: Using the 16oz filtered funnel, pour the Stop Bath in the tank, then lift and tap the tank few times to dislodge any air bubbles.
  1. Start the timer, and agitate by spinning or inversion (depending on the tank)
  2. WATER: Place under the filtered tap for 3-4 minutes
  3. Use can reuse STOP bath, or just dump it... (I use a Water Bath for 3-4 minutes to save a little on chemistry)
FIX: Using the 16oz filtered funnel, pour the Fix in the tank, then lift and tap the tank few times to dislodge any air bubbles.
  1. Start the timer, and agitate by spinning or inversion (depending on the tank)
  2. You can use a freshly made Fixer 3 times.. BUT.... increase the time to 8 minutes for the 2nd and 3rd times... THEN DUMP!
WASH: Place under the filtered tap for 20 minutes

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At this point, turn off your AC/Heat if you have a central system that uses air-vents in each room on the cieling or on a wall.

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  • At the 10 minute mark, turn on the Shower in a bathroom on the hotest setting, and close the door. (you should have one film clip hanging on the Curtain Rod)
  • At the 18 minute mark, enter the bathroom, and close the door behind you.
    Turn off the shower, leave and Close the door.
Photo Flo: Using the 16oz filtered funnel, pour the Photo Flo in the tank, then lift and tap the tank few times to dislodge any air bubbles.
  1. Start the timer, and agitate by spinning or inversion (depending on the tank), for the full minute.
  2. DUMP THE PHOTO FLO.... because it can collect dust and spread in on your next roll!!!!!!!!!
Dry:
  1. Take the tank in the bathroom,
  2. Close the door,
  3. Take the reel out, and twist it to seperate the two pieces.
  4. Take the film off the reel, and let it open up... raise you arm to do this,
  5. With a pair a sissors, cut the top edge to be a squared off
  6. Hang it from this edge,
  7. Cut the bottom edge to be square
  8. Place a weighted clip on this edge..
  9. Leave the bathroom, and close the door.
  10. set a timer for 3 hours.
  11. (You can use a Hair Drier if you want, but wait at least 1 hour)
  12. And go back and forth from each side every minute or so.. AND not too close... about 2 feet away is good.
  13. Besure you take the bottom of the film by the clip and hold the roll so it want move, or bend.

Now you are ready to cut, file, scan, wet print, your newly deveoped film