Дон Андре Published on May 17, 2008
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Analogue photography

Saturday May 17, 2008 at 08:10PM

I'm inexperienced with analogue photography. Currently I'm shooting with the "new" Zenit-E and the "older" Pentacon Six and I'm trying to find out some differences between the various films. With colour films my favourite so far is Fujifilm Velvia 50/100 (slide). I tried Fujifilm Sensia (slide) and Kodak Portra (negative) but I didn't like them a lot and none had richer colours and finer grain than Velvia. I've got a roll of Fujifilm Superia Reala that is currently being processed at the lab.

When it comes to black & white I'm still undecided and I can't tell the difference from FP4+ to Delta 100 or HP5+ to Delta 400. It's said that Delta has less contrast but finer grain, but I don't really know. Also I'm not developing for myself, so maybe it doesn't matter anyway. I also tried a roll of Ilford PanF+, but as I'm having next to no experience at all I can't tell if it's any good. I noticed that I could push the pictures quite a bit though, but okay ISO 50 film is expected to have fine grain.

I'm looking forward to devloping film for myself some day, but for now I'm just taking pictures, scan them and upload the better ones here.

Delta 100:

PanF+:

Delta 400:

HP5+:

Somehow they're all just B&W to me.. but considering colours, from what I've shot I dislike most of the photos but those shot with Velvia, which seems to be amazing in almost every case. And they also come out of the scanner almost exactly like they should. I had to tweak around Kodak Portra 160 VC last time to make it look any good.

Velvia 50:

Sensia 200:

Kodak Portra 160 VC:

Fujifilm Superia Reala 100:

8 Comments / add your comment?

Roberto Ballerini - travelingpro says:
Really beautiful B&W

--
Seen in robertoballerini home page (?)
Posted 18 months ago. ( permalink / translate )
Stardrifter says:
Slide films are pretty easy to scan, i prefer them.

Hey, if you want a really special B&W film, you could try the Adox CMS 20:
www.ipernity.com/search/doc?w=20649&q=adox

This one is amazingly grainfree. :)
Posted 18 months ago. ( permalink )
Steve says:
FIlm, I'm loving it again. Haven't tried slide film yet though. I'm a bit cheap and use Fuji consumer grade colour as the Velvia is quite dear.
Posted 18 months ago. ( permalink )
ِِِ says:
great black and whites
I use only hp5 for most of my works, but i will try Delta 400 as soon as i can

thx for sharing
Posted 18 months ago. ( permalink )
Дон Андреpro replies:
I'm looking forward to read about your experience then!
Posted 18 months ago. ( permalink )
Jerry Lee says:
developing BW films is quite a personal thing - one always need to choose your combination of film and developing chemicals -
...
KODAK MICRODOL-X Developer is designed to produce lower graininess than other black-and-white film developers, with very little loss in film speed. For greater sharpness, but with a slight increase in graininess, you can use a 1:3 dilution of this developer.

Proper replenishment of MICRODOL-X Developer will increase the capacity and maintain process consistency without an increase in developer time. See "Replenishment" for intructions on how to replenish this developer.

Agitation

Proper agitation is very important for consistent and uniform results. Agitation helps remove the by-products of development from the surface of the film so that fresh developer can act on the exposed silver halide in the emulsion. Because agitation affects the rate of development, particularly in high-density areas, you can achieve consistent negative quality only if agitation is uniform over the whole surface of the film, and when the degree of agitation is similar for each film or batch of films.

Agitation should always consist of irregular or random movements that will not cause solution currents to flow over the film constantly in any one direction; these currents increase film density along their paths, causing nonuniformity.

Agitating Rolls in a Small Tank

The times given for small-tank processing are based on the following agitation procedure:

Fill the empty tank with developer.
Start the timer. In the dark, smoothly and rapidly lower the loaded reel(s) into the developer solution.
Quickly attach the top to the tank. Firmly tap the bottom of the tank against the work surface from a height of approximately 2.5 cm (1 inch) to dislodge air bubbles from the surface of the film. Air bubbles can interfere with development and produce low-density circles on the film.
Provide initial agitation of 2 to 7 cycles, in 5 to 15 seconds. For KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX Films in invertible tanks, 5 to 7 cycles in 5 seconds are recommended. For an invertible tank, one cycle consists of rotating the tank upside down and then back to the upright position. For a noninvertible tank, one cycle consists of sliding the tank back and forth over a 25.4 cm (10-inch) distance. With tanks that have a handle for turning the reel, rotate the reel back and forth gently through about one-half turn at a rate of one cycle per second during the agitation intervals. Steps 2 through 4 will take approximately 7 to 20 seconds, depending on the type of tank.
End the initial agitation with a sharp tap of the bottom of the tank against the work surface to dislodge air bubbles from the film surface.
Let the tank sit for the remainder of the first 30 seconds.
After the first 30 seconds, agitate for 5 seconds at 30 second intervals. Agitation should consist of 2 to 5 cycles, depending on the contrast you need and the type of tank.

Agitating Short Rolls in a Large Tank

You can process several short rolls (1.5 metres [5 feet] or less) in a large tank. Wind each roll onto a spiral reel. Load the reels on a rack, in a basket, or on a spindle, and place the rack, basket, or spindle in the tank (typically a 3.8-litre [1-gallon] or a 13-litre [3 1/2 -gallon] tank). Many racks can hold up to 30 rolls of 35 mm film or 18 rolls of 120-size film. Use the following agitation procedure:

Start the timer. Lower the rack, basket, or spindle into the developer, and tap it quickly and sharply against the tank to dislodge air bubbles from the surface of the film. Air bubbles can interfere with development and produce low-density circles on the film.
Agitate the film continuously for the first 15 to 30 seconds by raising and lowering the rack, basket, or spindle approximately 1 cm ( 1/2 inch). Be sure to keep the reels in the solution. Do not agitate the rack, basket, or spindle for the remainder of the first minute.
Agitate once each minute (after the first minute) by lifting the rack, basket, or spindle completely out of the developer, tilting it approximately 30 degrees to drain it for 5 to 10 seconds, and reimmersing it. Alternate the direction of tilting the rack, basket, or spindle.

www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j4027/j4027.jhtml

P.S. for whatever money they charge you, it is simply not feasible to be this meticulous in film developing, unless you do it yourself.
Posted 18 months ago. ( permalink )
Дон Андреpro replies:
Thank you, I understand what you wanted to say with your post scriptum. For example, I pay 2.5€ per roll developing in the lab.
Posted 18 months ago. ( permalink )
Jonathan Ward says:
i used to get along fine with ilford pan 400's, i loved doing my own processing, but found the costs too high after a while.
Posted 18 months ago. ( permalink )

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