Once a song title and now a reality. How times change. We feel as if we have landed on an entirely different planet here. My first time in Indochina, and I am besotted. We are now in Siem Reap (thats Thais Out in Khmer by the way). Thais aren't liked much around here. There is in fact a military stand off on the border as I type. Keeps life interesting I guess.

Our arrival was painless, I expected utter confusion and in fact it was the most efficent border control I have come tp in a long time. They even have big widescreen Tvs showing football, behind the desks should you have to wait to long. We had evisas which despite being a nightmare to organise in advance did get us to the front of the queue, and as everyone else began visa on arrival procedures we were already on the way to our hotel, which not only sent a car to meet us we had a member of staff waiting as well to say hello.

The Hotel De La Paix is in the town centre, and is a very smart hotel, full of art deco urban chiq. Lots of cool places to while away your day, IPods playing selections from the Buddha Bar series in your room and all around the hotel, the smell of Jasmine floats in the air.

The town itself is rapidly expanding, it was quiet hip prior to the war, when it was all but destroyed along with its people, but the survivors have got back on their feet quickly in the ten years since it finished. New business are opening all the time with western style coffee bars and art galleries being added to the original indochinese mix. One thing that definantly isn't western are the prices, 40p for a beer. Full meals in good restaurants from two pounds. They are still learning though, last nights venue offered a peanut satay to Owen ten minutes after we asked the manager to ensure there were no peanuts anywhere near his food preparation. By which time the two cochroaches playing under our table had acquired nicknames. Won't be going back there again.

The old market has a collection of original souvenirs and clothing, and thus there is time for a lot of shopping. I sit watching the buses pulling out to Phnom Penh and thus connecting to Hanoi and Saigon to give them there proper names. We are a long way from home.

The delightfully named Bar Street is the gathering area, with a global food choice and a collection of international beers. I note it is sealed off by armed guards at both ends. Hmm! The boys are taking it there stride, Owen occasionally looses confidence and drops to a diet of Pizza and bread, but then tries for something more adventurious.

The one thing that gathers people here are of course the temples, the biggest collection of ruins in the world. We are spending the next couple of days exploring them before heading back into Thailand.