manganite Published on July 26, 2007
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Harajuku cosplayer

Thursday July 26, 2007 at 02:12PM

SS girl
SS girl
Foreigners have often the image that Tokyo is a modern neon city, with large skyscrapers overcrowded with cool and fancy people hurrying from on event to the other. But it's much more. This area with a size of about 80 times 30 square kilometers is a diverse city with lots contrast, old and new, peaceful and overcrowded side by side. One famous spot where you have this coexistence of supposedly contrary styles and cultures is Harajuku.

When you exit the Yamanote line at Harajuku-eki, you will first be overwhelmed by the crowd in this much too small station. Outside you can cross the street and enter Takeshita-dōri, a narrow street full of small fancy shops and restaurants. There you can get a good impression of japanese youth culture. Even though it takes a while to pass the overcrowded street, especially at the weekend. Maybe during the week it's better.

Hand
Hand
Parallel to Takeshita-dōri and perpendicular to the tracks of the Yamanote line directed to the east is Omotesando-dōri. And after a few hundred meter you will enter a completely different world. It's the glamor world of Omotesando with it's Louis Vuitton, Gucci and other luxury shops and first class Hotels. Like Ginza this a place for tourists and rich and modern Japanese who prefer a western lifestyle.

Following the Yamanote to the south you will come to Shibuya. Beside Ikebukero or Shinjuku this the part of Tokyo which comes closets to what I have described in the beginning. The neon lights and the jungle of shops and department stores. And that's the place where trends are created which spread first around Japan and then often around the whole world.

The girl with the purple parasol (II)
The girl with the purple paras…
On the west side of the station is the Yoyogi park, which you enter through a huge wooden torii. Inside the park the is the Meiji-jingu, one of the main Shinto shrines in Tokyo. It's dedicated to emperor Meiji with the rising of modern Japan at the end of the 19th century is closely connected. If you are lucky you can watch a traditional japanese wedding inside the shrine. If you pass the shrine and leave the park on the north side, you're in Shinjuku, where on the one hand you have Tokyos most impressive skyscrapers and on the other side of the railway tracks you find one of Tokyo's traditional red light areas.

Harajuku couple
Harajuku couple
Going back to Harajuku, just in the center, next to the station on a bridge over the railway tracks of the Yamanote line, which everyone who wants to enter the Yoyogi park has to enter, you find the cosplayer. Especially on Sundays you can find dozens of them on the bridge. Sitting around and chatting with each other, taking pictures and being photographed by the people passing the bridge, posing for them or with them. For most tourists it's an attraction itself, others are distracted by them on their way to the Meiji-jingu.

Harajuku girl
Harajuku girl
Most of the cosplayers are young girls, teenagers wearing costumes of their favorite heroes from mangas, anime, movies or music. You can find everything, traditional yukatas, gothic outfits and science fiction stuff; extraordinary make-ups and hairstyles or masks hiding parts or the whole face. It's an exciting and cool place at the same time. And if you like to take pictures, it's a perfect place. They like to pose and they can pose perfectly. No one with the stereotype image of the emotionless, every time controlled Japanese, no one who sees the uniformed children going to school and knows about the military like discipline in japanese schools mith imagine that this is also genuine behavior of young Japanese. And I guess most of them you wouldn't recognize as cosplayers during the week.

Cosplayer
Cosplayer
I really liked that place. Taking pictures (and there was no other place in Japan I was more satisfied with the pictures I took than here in Harajuku) or just sitting their and looking what's going on. Looking at the tourists, trying to take a picture of them or Mum and Dad taking a picture of their child in group of cosplayers. The old Japanese lurking around and taking pictures, and the young cosplayer taking pictures of their older idols. I had always the impression of a somehow friendly place, having in mind how a place in Germany full of gothic style young people would look alike...

Cosplay profile
Cosplay profile
Meanwhile cosplay is not only a Japanese thing. On the Japanese day in Dusseldorf their were a lot of German cosplayers, I saw them in Cologne and even here in Bonn I saw some. But, it's definitely not the same. It's not only that the costumes are not nearly as perfect as in Harajuku, it's the people themselves, somehow they are not cool enough and it doesn't look genuine. It's a copy, and not a good one. They cannot pose like them, they have not the same look and the behavior doesn't fit. It's not enough to wear the costumes, you most have the same cultural background. Maybe in a society where you are always free to express yourself, it's nothing special to wear a curious costume, it's more like carnival then a break out of the boundaries of society. I don't know, but some difference must exist.
No emeotions?
No emeotions?

8 Comments / add your comment?

@Janpro says:
Great article! This is something which definitely should appear in the "What's hot" section.
Posted 16 months ago. ( permalink )
manganite replies:
Thanks, but I don't think it will happen... ;)
Posted 16 months ago. ( permalink )
ypell says:
Having watched much of the few anime shows that made it to Canada in the last few years, I certainly haven't formed a vision of cold and emotionless Japanese. At least _some_ of them must like hyper-cute characters and sappy stories about girls with super-powers... :-)

Btw, try going to a Western TV exec to sell him/her a show about a double-amputee alchemist and his brother (a soul caught in an empty suit of armor). Yeah, they live under a military dictatorship and they join the military in order to pursue the Philosopher's Stone...
Posted 16 months ago. ( permalink )
manganite replies:
Yes, this cosplay, anime and manga stuff is not something emotionless, but talk with a japanese you didn't know, he will never show you openly his feelings. Most of the people at my workplace showed never any personal reaction in front of me, people on the street have the ability to ignore you completely, even people you meet everyday in your neighborhood.

And there are many other things giving you the impression of rather emotionless people on the first glance. Digging deeper, you will find them, but that's not easy...
Posted 16 months ago. ( permalink )
ypell says:
I have not lived in Japan, unfortunately, but I get your point (to the extent that I can). I have met two of my Japanese counterparts in technical meetings, and yes they are reserved. On one such occasion the meeting was in Montreal and the Japanese representative quietly asked me if I knew where he could purchase maple syrup. I told him I would look into it and the next day I gave him two cans from the family "reserve". His thankfulness was very obvious and very Japanese in how he expressed it.
Posted 16 months ago. ( permalink )
manganite replies:
Sounds very familiar :)
Posted 16 months ago. ( permalink )
HarryBo73 says:
Great article (again) and I would really like to go to that place and also take some pictures there. Sounds really interesting. I also saw some cosplayers yesterday in Bonn and they sometimes really look funny. Two girls looked like bavarians in their costums. Really funny and no elegance at all. As if I would wear a tutu
Posted 16 months ago. ( permalink )
manganite replies:
Yes, seems it's rather popular around here. Cologne, Dusseldorf and also in Bonn I saw some...
Posted 16 months ago. ( permalink )

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