Medieval love couples

"Saint-Pierre d'Aulnay" is a church outside of Aulnay, in the center of an old graveyard. The setting has not changed for centuries. For the pilgrims of the 12th century this church was a major halt - and it still is for all the tourists... A predecessing church „Saint-Pierre-de-la-Tour“ had been here, that, when the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostella got more and more popular, was obviously too small, as Aulnay was conveniently situated between Poitiers and Saintes on the Via Turonensis. A new, larger church was needed, so the place was handed over to the chapter of the cathedral in Poitiers. The canons then probably planned this church, that was erected from about 1130/1140 on. "Saint-Pierre d'Aulnay" (here seen from east) is a gem of the "style saintongeais". For Peter Strafford ("Romanesque Churches Of France") this is "one of the best examples of late Romanesque architecture in what used to be Aquitaine". I have uploaded many photos already taken during previous visits. So I will now add only a few.

Saint-Pierre, parish church of Champagnolles (pop. 500), got erected on the floorplan of a Latin Cross in the second half of the 12th century. To enrich the floorplan, semicircular absidioles were added in the east. The builders did not invest much artistic creativity into the portal or the interior, as only some rough capitals can be found there. They obviously concentrated on the rich decoration of eastern walls of Saint-Pierre. All around the apses are dozends of carved mystic corbels and capitals. Actually this church is known for "rude" carvings, and after the exhibitionists, megaphallic carvings and the loving couple... Here is another couple - and I do see another mega-phallus. But it may well be, that what the diagonal structure is an arm and the male to the right covers his genitals.

Early morning in Montils is not the very best time of the day, to take a photograph of the parish church Saint-Sulpice. The portal is in shadow and all the doors are locked. So the visitor can not not enter and will not see the crypt. The church was built during the 12th century, but got remodeled over the century a couple of times. The bell tower was added to the structure in the 15th, the facade got a "make up" in the 16th century. There are some remarkable corbels here, carved in a rough style, that differs from the "flamboyant" carvings around. After having seen, what is going on under the roof of Saint-Perre in Champagnolles, this can only been a weathered loving couple.

A priory, dependent from the Abbaye Royale in Saint-Jean-d'Angély, existed here in the 12th century, the church Saint-Germain was erected end of that century. The church is known for the southern portal, which is a Romanesque masterpiece. Some of the corbels of the transept and all around the apse are as well beautiful. Are there two persons - embracing each other ? And what is the subject inbetween them? Or is there a male genital? If so the corbel depicts a nude man. There are some more of these ithyphallic / megaphallic persons under the roofs of Poitous´ medieval churches.

Saint-Pardoux was erected in the second half of the 12th century as a church for a priory, dependent from the Benedictine Abbey Saint-Étienne in Baignes. The single-nave church got enlarged later and restored/rebuilt in the 19th century. It is claimed, that the facade is inspired by the construction of the cathedral of Angouleme. I do not see a strong influence. The carvings of the facade and all around the apse are very elaborate and come from very skilled and experienced workshops. Compared to the exterior splendor, the interior of Saint-Pardoux is simple and sober. The sculpted capitals here differ from the works outside. The capitals are pretty rough. It seems, that the Benedictines spent all the funds for the exterior decoration, when the church was built, so they did not employ a skilled artist here. The topics differ as well - and seem a bit inadequate for a priory. The previous upload had a scene, that could be described as "sexual harassment". Here is a kissing couple - and a female raising her arms (in despair? taken alarm?). The couple is sitting. Note the small leg of the kissing warrior (helmet).

Civaux, a village with a population of about 1000, has a history rooting very deep. Humans populated the area already, when stepp bisons and mammoths were hunted. Many "pre-historic" artefacts have been excavated in and around Civaux, proving that this place was inhabited over tens of thousands of years. A settlement stood on the site of the village in Gallo-Roman times, and there are still traces of Roman temples. Excavations have revealed the sites of a theater (capacity 3000), a fortified camp, and the foundations of many villas. This has been a place of very early christianisation. A funeral stele has been found dating to around 400, a pagan temple and a very early baptisterium were excavated next to the church. A polygonal apse was probably built as will around 400, what actually means that this church, dedicated to Saint Gervais and Saint Protais is one of the oldest in France. At that time a kind of pilgrimage must have developed. The relics of Saint Gervais and Saint Protais had been miraculously discovered by Saint Ambrose in Milan in 386, so the saints got very popular in Merovingian times, but that does not explain the enigma of Civaux. The village stands in the center of a huge merovingian necropolis. As many sarcophagi were sold as water basins or troughs in later time, the exact number of graves is unknown. Serious estimations are between 15.000 and 20.000 graves. There are parallels to nearby Saint Pierre in Cauvigny (16 kms north). The same colours as in Chauvigny were used here during the restauration of the interior. At least one of the capitals is very similar to one in Saint Pierre, but some carvings are absolutely unique. The nave dates back to the 11th century, the apse more than 600 years older. Thanks to the friendly lady from the Archaeological Museum I could take photos from the gallery of the church. Merci beaucoup! A couple shaking hands. This carving is pretty unique. It is mostly interpreted as a symbol for marriage. Marriage was recognized as a sacrament in 1184 at the Council of Verona. This capital may be a little older than that. The bride has an enormous long arm and a very large hand. Note that to the left a person is tumbling. We will meet him again.

Saint-Mandé-sur-Brédoire is about 4 kms west of Aulnay, a distance an able man walked probably in less than an hour. It is absolutely clear, that the master-workshops working in Aulnay, did work here as well. Saint-Brice, a small single nave structure, has many parallels to Saint-Pierre in Aulnay. Some icons were tried here, before they were carved in another scale and another quality for Saint-Pierre. So this church may have served as a "sample book". Most surprising is Saint-Brice´s side portal. I will add details. Here is a loving couple - maybe there are even two loving couples..

A small, Romanesque church, erected in the 12th century, got too small during the time of the Renaissance. It had a wonderful carved facade - and got saved! A second nave was built beside it - and the new facade was constructed "around" the old one, so both styles now are under joined one gable. The church got renovated in the 1990s. Following the "style saintonge", there are three arches on the ground and second tier of five arches. Above these are eleven carved corbels (some of them seem new), supporting a small roof. One of these corbels has this touching scene. A husband returns home and is welcomed by his wife. He must have been away for a long time, as he had made an oath, not to cut the hair, before he would hold her in his arms.

The parish church Saint-Sulpice in the village of Marignac was erected within the 12th century as part of a priory, founded here by the Charroux Abbey (120kms southeast). The church has a remarkable cloverleaf layout. The eastern part, seen here and the portal are still dating back to the first church here, while the outer walls of the nave have been rebuilt, after destruction by war. All around the eastern "cloverleaf" are carved corbels, pillar and capitals. For a while I saw here a hugging couple. But this is a serious fight. Note the very unfair kick "below the belt".